Appropriate temperatures on TC

[Cabrill]

So I am a first time vaper, and decided to go for a TC mod to ensure I wouldn't ever have a "dry hit." After reading up on it quite a bit I found that the ideal temperature range usually falls between 290F-420F. However, the pre-built titanium coils (TF-TI) for the tank I selected (smok TFV4) have a suggested temperature range of 450-600F. Can anyone tell me why there's such a strong disparity? I can't imagine why coils would have a suggested minimum temperature at all. If it gets hot enough to vaporize the VG/PG isn't that sufficient?

Has anyone used these specific pre-built coils and can comment on the temperature they prefer?

 

[TheotherSteveS]

so...what mod you using??

 

[Darkly spectr]

It's because the coils can wick fast enough at those temperatures.

290 is weak as hell. cotton doesn't start really discoloring at 400 degrees from my experience, 430ish is when you might get a bad taste. not BURNED BURNED but just "ergh wtf"

but that is stone dry cotton. You will notice that its dry before you actually get to that point. Technically 420 is safe to use. but honestly I doubt you will actually vape cotton so dry that it starts burning.

you are perfectly fine vaping those coils at like 450-480.

 

[Cabrill]

so...what mod you using??

The Pioneer iPV D2.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

Ok, that is an important thing to know because the TC calibration in different mods are very variable.. Frankly it is ridiculous to recommend a temp range for a coil head. 600F on a iStick 40w will barely make vapopur on these coils, on a DNA 200 you will melt the metal casing...well maybe not quite but there is a huge variation.

On the D2, the calibration is pretty good, even in Ti mode (i have 2, and an istick 40 and a dna200 so im not making this stuff up!). So I would start at say 25J and 400F and work up from there until you find a sweet spot. The actual number doesnt matter much. If you find 500 is a good vape, that is fine!

 

[Cabrill]

It's because the coils can wick fast enough at those temperatures.

290 is weak as hell. cotton doesn't start really discoloring at 400 degrees from my experience, 430ish is when you might get a bad taste. not BURNED BURNED but just "ergh ..."

but that is stone dry cotton. You will notice that its dry before you actually get to that point. Technically 420 is safe to use. but honestly I doubt you will actually vape cotton so dry that it starts burning.

you are perfectly fine vaping those coils at like 450-480.

The reason I asked is because most of the posts in the "Titanium wire, vaping and safety" thread on these forums suggest 350-380F. I'm positive you're right and that 450-480 is safe, I just was wondering if there's a particular reason why they suggest 450 as a minimum, like their coil won't work correctly at lower, or if it's just a recommendation. My TFV4 hasn't arrived yet, so I can't test it myself.

 

[Cabrill]

Ok, that is an important thing to know because the TC calibration in different mods are very variable.. Frankly it is ridiculous to recommend a temp range for a coil head. 600F on a iStick 40w will barely make vapopur on these coils, on a DNA 200 you will melt the metal casing...well amybe not quiote but there is a huge variation.

On the D2, the calibration is pretty good, even in Ti mode. So I would start at say 25J and 400F and work up from there until you find a sweet spot. The actual number doesnt matter much. If you find 500 is a good vape, that is fine!

What I find even more odd is that the nickel coils (TF-N2) have a different temperature rating than the titanium. Correct me if I'm wrong, but 450F on a titanium coil is identical to 450F on a nickel coil, right?

 

[sofarsogood]

In the early months I vaped at 8 watts. That increased to 20 watts over more months and I don't want it to go higher for a variety of reasons. Just play with the temp setting and max watts settings. Over time you'll figure out what you prefer. IMO less is better.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

What I find even more odd is that the nickel coils (TF-N2) have a different temperature rating than the titanium. Correct me if I'm wrong, but 450F on a titanium coil is identical to 450F on a nickel coil, right?

only if the mod has a Ti mode. In principle it should be true but in practice, there is some variability. The evic VTC mini is a case in point where the Ni mode is pretty much spot on but the Ti mode is very underpowered meaniung that yiou need to crank the temp up a lot more for Ti than Ni coils! As I said, the D2 is pretty good so start around 400F (probs a bit low) and work up! Experiment a bit. Provide your build is good and the resistance valued detected and registered by the mod is reasonably accurate, then it shoudkl work just fine!!

edit: dont forget to lock in the resistance by pressing up and down simultaneously. The value you see should be close to what you expect. If it is a long way out, then check build/coil/510 connection etc etc. A small deviation in R will make a big difference in vape!

 

[Cabrill]

In the early months I vaped at 8 watts. That increased to 20 watts over more months and I don't want it to go higher for a variety of reasons. Just play with the temp setting and max watts settings. Over time you'll figure out what you prefer. IMO less is better.

I might be misunderstanding but I thought in TC mode the watts only determined how fast it reaches your desired temperature, but apart from "heat acceleration" it makes no difference at all once you have a temperature set because that acts as a the upper ceiling regardless of wattage.

 

[sofarsogood]

I might be misunderstanding but I thought in TC mode the watts only determined how fast it reaches your desired temperature, but apart from "heat acceleration" it makes no difference at all once you have a temperature set because that acts as a the upper ceiling regardless of wattage.

you are right but it's another way to fine tune the vape. My kanzin mini lets me set a max watts value. I find that adjusting that influences the vape. If the wick is supersaturated it will take longer to heat so more power will be pushed to the coil and may be there will be more vapor than I want. I don't want the mod pushing more than 20 watts under any circumstances. Max watts can conserve battery power, moderates the amount of vapor produced and limits stress on the battery.

 

[Cabrill]

you are right but it's another way to fine tune the vape. My kanzin mini lets me set a max watts value. I find that adjusting that influences the vape. If the wick is supersaturated it will take longer to heat so more power will be pushed to the coil and may be there will be more vapor than I want. I don't want the mod pushing more than 20 watts under any circumstances. Max watts can conserve battery power, moderates the amount of vapor produced and limits stress on the battery.

Great to know, thanks! I don't think the mod I selected, iPV D2, has that option, but I'd love to be wrong on that. Does anyone know with certainty?

 

[Spirometry]

The reason I asked is because most of the posts in the "Titanium wire, vaping and safety" thread on these forums suggest 350-380F. I'm positive you're right and that 450-480 is safe, I just was wondering if there's a particular reason why they suggest 450 as a minimum, like their coil won't work correctly at lower, or if it's just a recommendation. My TFV4 hasn't arrived yet, so I can't test it myself.

Not all temp control devices are calibrated for titanium. That is why you are finding some real low recommended numbers for titanium, because they are using Ti in nickel calibration. General rule of thumb is to subtract 100°

No idea why TFV4 has a recommended min. There is just too many variables. The boiling point of VG and PG being a big one. Your VG/PG blend will have an impact on your temp.
PG has a boiling point of 370.8°. The more VG you add the more temp you will need.

 

[Spirometry]

I might be misunderstanding but I thought in TC mode the watts only determined how fast it reaches your desired temperature, but apart from "heat acceleration" it makes no difference at all once you have a temperature set because that acts as a the upper ceiling regardless of wattage.

TC can be used in a couple of different ways. I see some set temp real high and just adjust wattage. I see some max out their wattage and only adjust temp. I am in the group that likes to keep the two in an equilibrium.

 

[sofarsogood]

TC can be used in a couple of different ways. I see some set temp real high and just adjust wattage. I see some max out their wattage and only adjust temp. I am in the group that likes to keep the two in an equilibrium.

Here's a way to learn more about that. Carry your rig into a hardware store and find a vinyl tubing size that will press fit into your drip tip then buy a couple feet. At home use the tubing to take some puffs and video the screen display. My mod shows me real time watts so I can see how much power is needed to get to and maintain the temp. It takes less power than I thought it would for my settings.

 

[Spirometry]

DNA200, no tubing required.

 

[GeorgeS]

The Pioneer iPV D2.

I believe that because the IPV-D2 uses a YiHi chip it has the YiHi "dry coil" detection feature.

It is my understanding that a properly wicked and wet coil can be pushed to the maximum temperature the mod supports (usually ~580-600F) without burning the wick. (as long as the wick+coil remain wet)

With the YiHi chip (others may have similar features) if the measured temperature slope as the coil is heated starts to rise unexpectedly the YiHi will cut power to the coil with the "dry coil" message. Hence you can't really 'dry burn' a coil with a YiHi chip in TC mode. (generally not recommended anyway for Ni and Ti wire types)

There are two-three distinct camps when it comes to settings. One camp likes to set to maximum power/joules and just let the mod try to regulate the temperature. On SX350J's if the joules is set to high the (real time) temperature can be seen wildly jumping over/under the set point. Another camp uses the minimum power/joules needed to hit the set point less than a second. There may be some battery charge savings with this approach. Lastly the other camp adjusts power/joules and temperature to whatever gives them the best experience.

None of the above is wrong. IMHO: all three are valid approaches to TC vaping.

As expected I find that my dual coil builds require more power than my single coil builds. While I generally vape at a mundane 380-430F (with the correct wire setting for the wire I'm using), there are times I like to turn up the temperature and open up the air flow and blow some clouds.

Every one is different so I would not worry much about the settings others use. Just adjust it to where YOU like it and the TC should give you a nice consistent vape every pull/draw.

Happy Vaping!

 

[rhelton]

The Pioneer iPV D2.

I have a D2 its a really nice little device. For me with TC I set my tanks around 500 and 25j-35j. Hurricane, UTA and Kayfun 25j, Subtank and Apex tank 30J. On drippers my temp is 450-470 35j-40j. As far as ohm's go I always shoot for 0.05-0.07, this is what has worked for me. I am a flavor chaser more than a cloud chaser. I would say start around 420 degrees and 25j and adjust from there. It took me a few weeks before I was able to know what to expect and what settings to use.

I still use kanthal more than anything. I have not tried SS yet but plan too.

 

[Cabrill]

I have a D2 its a really nice little device. For me with TC I set my tanks around 500 and 25j-35j. Hurricane, UTA and Kayfun 25j, Subtank and Apex tank 30J. On drippers my temp is 450-470 35j-40j. As far as ohm's go I always shoot for 0.05-0.07, this is what has worked for me. I am a flavor chaser more than a cloud chaser. I would say start around 420 degrees and 25j and adjust from there. It took me a few weeks before I was able to know what to expect and what settings to use.

I still use kanthal more than anything. I have not tried SS yet but plan too.

I thought the resistance range on the iPV D2 was 0.2-3.0ohm. Isn't 0.05-0.07ohm dangerously below the safe range?

 

[puffon]

Isn't 0.05-0.07ohm dangerously below the safe range?

Not for a TC build.