RTA for Temperature Control

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Treeburner1983

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I have a few temperature control mods coming (two VF v3 clones and a ipv4), but most of my RTAs are dual coil and probably not ideal for TC builds. My all day vape tank is the eLeaf Lemo (I have two full size and one drop), but I've heard people have had issues with the Lemo and TC because of the hybrid connector.

So can anyone suggest a good kayfun-style single coil rebuildable tank atomizer with a good size build deck, glass tank and at least as good airflow as the Lemo (preferably more) that is solidly built and can handle nickel and titanium builds?

Thanks,
Treeburner
 

cinetrope

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I've been using a Kayfun v4 on an SX Mini "M" for the past week and it works fine for me. I'm running single twisted 30 AWG, 6/7 wraps spaced on a 3mm Coil-Master mandrel and hitting 0.12 ohms. Some people complain about connectivity issues with the v4 but I never had that problem with Kanthal builds and I'm not having it now with Ni200.
 

ChrisCanal

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I have a few temperature control mods coming (two VF v3 clones and a ipv4), but most of my RTAs are dual coil and probably not ideal for TC builds. My all day vape tank is the eLeaf Lemo (I have two full size and one drop), but I've heard people have had issues with the Lemo and TC because of the hybrid connector.

So can anyone suggest a good kayfun-style single coil rebuildable tank atomizer with a good size build deck, glass tank and at least as good airflow as the Lemo (preferably more) that is solidly built and can handle nickel and titanium builds?

Thanks,
Treeburner


I use and like the Delta 2 tank on my SX MINI. The airflow is more open than Lemo, and it seems to work quite well.
 

roxynoodle

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Erlkonigin? You can get glass tanks for it from IBTanked. It has a very stable base, which is why I'm making it my first one to try with TC. I suspect the Prometey would also work well. Its a SS tank though. The Rose v2 might work well.

Someone sent me a metal sleeve that replaces the spring in the K 4 to better use TC as well.
 

Mroutlaw

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I've been using a Kayfun v4 on an SX Mini "M" for the past week and it works fine for me. I'm running single twisted 30 AWG, 6/7 wraps spaced on a 3mm Coil-Master mandrel and hitting 0.12 ohms. Some people complain about connectivity issues with the v4 but I never had that problem with Kanthal builds and I'm not having it now with Ni200.

I've had no issues running nickel on my may run v4. Maybe cause I have the $25 go back clone.


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Mroutlaw

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The mange subtank mini is nice. The nickel heads are goodcut expensive. The rba portion is easy to work with. I also use the kayfun v4 tobeco clone ($25).

I've tried a lot of builds and learned basic works best. Don't get fancy and you absolutely don't need dual coil. If you don't like the fact that ni200 is so soft, you can twist it with Kanthal.

This is what I run. 28gauge ni200 twisted with 30gauge kanthal. 6/7 wraps on a 3mm bit gives me .14-.16 ohms. Awesome flavor and vapor


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Croak

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Right behind you...
I've posted this elsewhere, I'll post it again here, because it just plain works!

Using this method mostly eliminates all the headaches associated with thinner gauge nickel (still have to worry about cutting the legs with your terminal screws, but even that's not a big deal).

I only use 30 and 32ga annealed now, since it tends to work much better on a DNA, giving me higher resistance and a larger margin for error if resistance shifts and less coil mass/faster heating compared to 28ga or twisted 30ga which most folks use, since 30 and 32 is normally such a pain to work with.

Keep in mind, at least with the DNA40, more resistance is actually better in my experience, and the only reason you see something like 0.10 to 0.15 as the "standard" for nickel builds is that's just what happens when you have a spaced coil made out of 28ga that will still fit in most build decks.



Instead of nail like the Youtube guy uses, I cut a ~2mm stainless bbq/kebab skewer.

21cnIe8bO9L.jpg


I cut it in three sections, each about the same length as the JOC pads I use, (running along the grain). I run about a wrap and a half of JOC around it, then twist to tighten into a nice tube that holds its shape, while making sure the skewer arbor still slides easily. Play around with cotton thickness to dial in the ID of the coil you want to run (or use a thicker/thinner arbor)

What I like about the skewer is that the loop on the end is handy for gripping, and it's stainless so less worry about contaminating my cotton. Since I have three pieces, what I do is pre-build coils on the section with the loop, then slide them onto the all-straight sections, which I keep in a baggy in my "vape kit" so I always have a couple prebuilt nickel coils and wicks ready to go, at home or on the road.

And that's the downside, you're not going to be able to simply rewick with this method, you'll need a full coil build too, but that's ok with me since Ni200 and cotton are both cheap and it only takes a couple minutes to build one of these. Each wick/coil combo uses about a quarter pad of the 5x6mm stuff I use, but once again, cotton is cheap.

Wicks great in my Kayfun V4, my ST, my Erl clone, and all my drippers. You'll want to experiment with how thick you want to wrap your cotton on the arbor, and then just trim and fit as you would any other wick for your particular atty. I should mention on some toppers I get better results peeling the outer layers off the pad instead of pulling one in half and keeping a compressed layer, on others the compressed layer seems to help.

Try it, you'll like it.
 
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Adrian Ludvik

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Lemo 2 is working well for me. 28g ni200 3mm 12 wraps.

Does it leak when you top fill it like riptrippers said it has been for him. Been curious about that and been waiting for his review before I order one.

Also, been successfully using my lemo drop with TC. At first it was reading the ohms very high but I tightened it up and it's working great now.
 
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