I agree, the longer coil jig rods are great. If I remember right it's the Coil Master Coil Jig V2. It also has a two holes to wind your coil clock and counter clock wise.
Are all tool kits the same?
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I agree, the longer coil jig rods are great. If I remember right it's the Coil Master Coil Jig V2. It also has a two holes to wind your coil clock and counter clock wise.
hmm.. Had to look that USAohmmeter Fire Meter up...
And.... well better built? that looks like it's built in a garage, their site like a high school project from 10 years ago, including multiple typos.
Aside the USA USA USA!!!! I see nothing about it being better built.. I'll have to go look at some reviews I guess.
I have both. I bought the USAohmmeter, and some time later received a 521 Tab as a gift. The USA is heavier, the box is 3D printed, rather than molded ABS like the 521. The USA has a mosfet switch, although I don't honestly know if the Tab switch is mosfet or not. The spring loaded 510 connection on the USA is better quality than the Tab 521. But, it's over 2x the price. Whether or not that's worth it is up to you.
I built my first sets of coils, (Japanese cotton, Geek Vape clapton spool), by winding the wires around a Q-Tip shaft, and cutting the leads with a cheap nail cutter. They weren't the best, but worked fine.
Since then; I've picked up a pair of flush wire cutters, a simple Tobeco micro coil jig, and a pair of ceramic tweezers. The total cost for those was ~$15.
521 tabs are nice, and I might buy one at some point, but I don't mind building on my RX200.
Ymmv.
Since then; I've picked up a pair of flush wire cutters, a simple Tobeco micro coil jig, and a pair of ceramic tweezers. The total cost for those was ~$15.
521 tabs are nice, and I might buy one at some point, but I don't mind building on my RX200.
Ymmv.
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Go the à la carte route. I have the 521 Tab, Coil Master v3 kit, UD ceramic tweezers, and a lot of other things that I picked up as I needed them.
The RX200 would be a great stable platform to build on.
I checked out what I could find about the USAohmmeter... appears to be put together with chinese electronics in a 3d printed box.. it does appears to be very accurate, but overall, not that much better to warrant the price difference.
I use my Vaporshark DNA200 as an ohm meter lol. And a parallel dual 18650 unregulated mod to actually heat up coils/get rid of hot spots. My VS gets too hot when builds "pre-fire" are like 0.05 before pulsing process.
If you need wire, buy from either Kidneypuncher or TemcoIndustrial.
Those are the two best places to buy wire in bulk. I personally use both, because KP has thinner gauges I want from 38-50ga. And Temco I use them for N80 or KA1 20ga-36ga. I also buy my lower gauges 36-50ga in bulk of 1000ft-5000ft <--- if 5k feet is available for a reasonable price. Usually I pay like 130$ for 5000ft of "claptoning wire"
For my "toolbox" I bought two things:
$3.37 Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers - aluminum / silver / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm winding rods at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.68 PLATO #170 Flush Cutter for Rebuildable Atomizers - max.040" (1mm) dia copper Wire at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
And I always have at home screwdrivers and good scissors (suitable for cotton).
It looks like I do not need anything else.
$3.37 Vaping Coil Winding Jig Tool for Rebuildable Atomizers - aluminum / silver / 1.5mm + 2.0mm + 2.5mm + 3.0mm + 3.5mm winding rods at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
$2.68 PLATO #170 Flush Cutter for Rebuildable Atomizers - max.040" (1mm) dia copper Wire at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
And I always have at home screwdrivers and good scissors (suitable for cotton).
It looks like I do not need anything else.
Regardless of the difficulties ... I would never, ever rely on an unregulated for the pulse/tweeze process...so very, very low.
Not only are you intentionally adjusting the coil, and its' resting resistance, but you have zero protection from an unnoticed accidental short if the coil shifts.
It's dodgy at best, you know that, and an unnecessary risk at worst.
Especially with your extremely low starting resistances.
Don't make us read about you in the news.
But... it's been done by many, for quite a while too... stay safe.
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I did buy some ceramic tweezers, and the Coil Master 521. All my mods are either small (Pico) and/or tall and thin, and trying to build on them without tipping will just make me nervous, so better a stable surface that i can test and burn on. Otherwise, I've got what's needed here. I even have a set of small screwdrivers that even come sized, with w 2, 2.4, and 3 mm flat heads which should be perfect for coiling on. Oh, and some cotton, something like ~$10 for 60 sheets.
First thing to go in all setups is the cutters. Try cutting stainless and titanium wire with those cheap cutters and you will quickly see that what you're cutting is quite possibly tougher than the cutters! Unless you're prepared to spend over a hundred bucks then expect your cutters to take the brunt of the wear and consider them replaceable.
You can find some real neat cutting devices in the same area that they generally sell nail clippers. I like to use something they call a cuticle cutter-upper of some kind; it's made of stainless steel, cost about 10 bucks or so, cut up real close like those tiny nippers, and in general hold up pretty good. They were made by Revlon or something like that. You can find them in all kinds of shapes to help your building (in addition to good old nail clippers).
Hex keys (allen wrenches); before you use them, heat them up good with a pinpoint torch to a red hot and quench them in cold water. It makes them hard and keeps them from rounding so easily. The cheap hex keys round off quickly when torquing down on a coil wire. Hardening them makes them last a lot longer.
You can find some real neat cutting devices in the same area that they generally sell nail clippers. I like to use something they call a cuticle cutter-upper of some kind; it's made of stainless steel, cost about 10 bucks or so, cut up real close like those tiny nippers, and in general hold up pretty good. They were made by Revlon or something like that. You can find them in all kinds of shapes to help your building (in addition to good old nail clippers).
Hex keys (allen wrenches); before you use them, heat them up good with a pinpoint torch to a red hot and quench them in cold water. It makes them hard and keeps them from rounding so easily. The cheap hex keys round off quickly when torquing down on a coil wire. Hardening them makes them last a lot longer.
Below is a photo of everything I might travel with and it's the rebuilding stuff I use at home. Most of it came from FT and for a lot less then $50. The only things in the kit are things I actually need. The small stuf is kept in the gift box my Galaxy Note 4 came in. The clippers are designed for cutting coil wire but at home I use zip tie cutters. The thrum scissors are made for clipping threads in sewing but are perfect for cutting cotton pads. Batteries should ALWAYS have the terminals protected, ALWAYS. The orange thing has a 510 female thread for holding an atomizer but I usually just rebuild on the mod. The cotton is in a clamshell box that had a spool of wire. There is a coiling tool and a short peice of 3mm aluminum welding rod. I only build 3mm coils.
You don't need to spend $50 on rebuilding tools and you'll find the zipper case is not the most convenient because you'll need to add things and have no place to put them. I always have a spare atomizer with a build and dry wick ready to go. The tape on the juice bottle are set at 7 and 14 ml from the top. I usually consume 7 ml per day. I set the marks by filling the bottle with water then drawing 7 ml with a syringe. If you are going to use silicone anti slip rings get the ones that are 12mm tall. They won't slip out of place in your pocket. If you don't like the ugly printing they always seem to have turn them inside out.
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316 stainless steel is rather soft, softer than kanthal. Cheap hardened steel (as in cheap cutters) is much (MUCH) harder.
a la carte route. Most everything has a homemade version that is cheaper and works as well. But, individual personality prevails, too.
Just though I should mention between my multiple tanks, that I still use my Melo 2 (same coil cartridges) as my go-to, and a huge part of why is that the coil cartridges for it are really easy to rebuild, and the more I play with RTAs and such, the more I prefer going with vertical coils.
Doing verticals in an RTA can be a bit tricky due to having to work with the posts and insuring that the cotton is both wrapped enough and provide insulation to prevent a short, and that it will wick well, and also fit inside the RTA's limited space, while doing them in the cartridges is much easier and the feed for the wick is also much better. I prefer the Vaperasso coil cartridges (the cCell ceramic) as they are very well built and as good as it gets to rebuild.
And my rebuilds are a lot better than originals.
I don't have any mech mods minus an unregulated Atto clone so I don't use an ohm meter, I use my regulated mods as ohm meters.
With that said. I purchased 2 sets of Coil Master V2 sets, 1 authentic, 1 fake/clone. The fake/clone's coil making tool just doesn't work, so I would say no they're not all the same.
the V2 kit has everything I need minus hex screwdrivers for velocity style decks.
With that said. I purchased 2 sets of Coil Master V2 sets, 1 authentic, 1 fake/clone. The fake/clone's coil making tool just doesn't work, so I would say no they're not all the same.
the V2 kit has everything I need minus hex screwdrivers for velocity style decks.
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