are V4L KR808d's?

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DonDaBoomVape

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• I tried the condom cap refill technique with these CE2's. juice just came out the puffing end fast and I had a mess. I'm a n00b with less than a couple weeks experience, so maybe I did something wrong.
Tim, you may be a "n00b," but I am an an all-thumbs veteran. I think you have the edge.:D

Glad (for you) that your experience with the RS808D-1 batteries was better than mine. The button was busted on one of them and the other started activating uncontrollably for no reason after two days. [NOTE: No criticism of Vapor Junction implied; I never got around to notifying them.]
 

LowThudd

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NONE of V4L's batteries are sound activated! I own at least 1 of every kind they offer and been using them for well over a year, getting new ones everytime they come out with a different color or upgrade of some kind. Had some that were definately sound activated from Absolutelyecigs and couldn'teven listen to my car radio, on low volume without them going off, then cutting off for 5 min! With V4L's, doesn't matter if I turn volume up to max, there's no interference. Also, cost is $17.50 and under.

Yes, in the last couple of months they have switched to sound activation. They anounced it in their forum, and there were lot's of complaints. All the new ones are sound activated.
 

Tim the Enchanter

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Tim, you may be a "n00b," but I am an an all-thumbs veteran. I think you have the edge.:D

Glad (for you) that your experience with the RS808D-1 batteries was better than mine. The button was busted on one of them and the other started activating uncontrollably for no reason after two days. [NOTE: No criticism of Vapor Junction implied; I never got around to notifying them.]

Don,

What do you mean by the battery being busted? I've had the buttons become pushed down under the shells in the direction of the ends, which causes them to stay on till they timeout about 8 seconds later, but I've not had much of a problem getting the button re-centered and popping up like it should again. Do you mean the button just wouldn't activate the LED?

Tim
 

DonDaBoomVape

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Tim,

Sorry for my delay in seeing your post. On one of them, the button started out stuck under the shell and went right back in every time I pushed it. Made the battery inoperable. The other worked fine for two days, then started firing randomly.

No thanks! On skinny batts, only the 510 has a manual switch that I like. Back to auto Kr8 batts for me (and manual mods and Fat Batts, of course).
 

MsOceanCity

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Yes, in the last couple of months they have switched to sound activation. They anounced it in their forum, and there were lot's of complaints. All the new ones are sound activated.

That's very strange because I bought two new XL auto batteries within the last 6 weeks(at different times) and took both to a recent Lady Gaga concert. If the deafening noise there didn't activate them(and it didn't), I'm not sure what would! LOL
 

LowThudd

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That's very strange because I bought two new XL auto batteries within the last 6 weeks(at different times) and took both to a recent Lady Gaga concert. If the deafening noise there didn't activate them(and it didn't), I'm not sure what would! LOL

They may still have old stock that they are selling. Not sure the XLs sell as many as the standards. *shrug*, that is what v4l themself said was happening, maybe they decided against it. I'm just avoiding their products at present. Don't want to risk getting something I don't want.
 

MsOceanCity

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They may still have old stock that they are selling. Not sure the XLs sell as many as the standards. *shrug*, that is what v4l themself said was happening, maybe they decided against it. I'm just avoiding their products at present. Don't want to risk getting something I don't want.

Maybe they were "thinking" about it, but I'm pretty sure it never happened. They have a HUGE customer base and very active forum and their "loyals" would have been extremely vocal about such a change and they haven't been. Only problems, of late, have been some issues with new wow blank cartos. I wouldn't steer anybody away from their batteries.
 

Tim the Enchanter

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Tim,

Sorry for my delay in seeing your post. On one of them, the button started out stuck under the shell and went right back in every time I pushed it. Made the battery inoperable. The other worked fine for two days, then started firing randomly.

No thanks! On skinny batts, only the 510 has a manual switch that I like. Back to auto Kr8 batts for me (and manual mods and Fat Batts, of course).

Don,

I too apologize for not getting back sooner.

This might help you salvage a couple of those sticks. What do you have to lose?

Here's a pic of the RS808D-1 taken apart to help me make sense below.

V1033Small.jpg


I dropped one of my RS808's the other day after my first message to you, and then the button on it started acting funky, too. It would go under the shell when I pushed it and not pop back out, and didn't want to fire correctly when pushed. Nothing to lose, I pulled the oval, black, rubber button (center in pic) all the way out -- it comes out pretty easy without any tools if you have a bit of length on you fingernails with which to grab it. Small pliers would work, too. Nothing there to break.

Looking inside the hole, it was obvious the small real switch, which is on a dinky circuit board, was no longer centered under the button. When I dropped it, it had landed on the end and everything inside had slid up toward the mouthpiece connector end. With just fingernail pressure again, I pulled off the gray ash tip. It is just a press-on fit. If it is on tight, the edge of a knife should get under and between it and the shell enough to pry it off. Beneath the ash tip I could see there was good bit of space in that end of the shell. So, I hit that end hard against my leg a few times and the battery and switch moved back down toward the ash end. This action put the switch slightly too far the other way in the shell. So, I just slowly pushed a bit on the end of the battery that is exposed at the ash end with the end of a retracted plastic writing pen. I watched the switch and stopped pushing when it was centered inside the button hole. All I needed to do then was press the ash back on the end, and put the rubber button back in the hole above the switch. A slightly blunted round toothpick helped with getting the edges of he rubber button poked back under the shell. The RS808 worked fine then.

Ya' might want to give that a try. As soon as you pull the rubber button off, you'll probably see if the problem is that the switch isn't centered in that area, or if the problem lies elsewhere.

I hope you find this useful.

Tim
 
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