Attn: atomizer rebuilders
- Thread starter crazyhorse
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You mean instead of Nichrome foam? Not sure that will work, as it will probably take a lot more energy to heat it up. Nichrome has a very high resistance, which creates a lot of heat when the current "struggles" to flow through it.
What about making a modular atomiser?
1.Top= snap in bridge
2.Next= filament with fiber
3.Next a drilled atomizer bottom (drilled for the two leads of the heating coil)
4.Bottom another atomizer bottom with the correct threadding to get to batterie holder.
when you push 2 into 3 the tails protrude
bend tail of negetive into cutout of thread
snip and bend positive lead to form center contact
thread bottom-4 onto 3 to pinch in place and hold coil
Slide into or thread into tube and attach cart.
No solder, just self clamping
This would solve all solder problems, make the atomizer easily rebuildable by anyone.
1.Top= snap in bridge
2.Next= filament with fiber
3.Next a drilled atomizer bottom (drilled for the two leads of the heating coil)
4.Bottom another atomizer bottom with the correct threadding to get to batterie holder.
when you push 2 into 3 the tails protrude
bend tail of negetive into cutout of thread
snip and bend positive lead to form center contact
thread bottom-4 onto 3 to pinch in place and hold coil
Slide into or thread into tube and attach cart.
No solder, just self clamping
This would solve all solder problems, make the atomizer easily rebuildable by anyone.
I have pics posted of where I suggesed using IC socket pins (gold plated) for a plug in coil. I think its in the DSE601 rebuilders thread.
There just isnt much room in the cermaic cup to work and the metal foam across the bottom lends way for an easy short. The pins of the socket fit perfectly into the top of the same connector from the socket. My method was to solder and crimp.
Not much room to work in a 510, 901 cup, but an 801 has possibilities.
Cup styles differ also. Some are a open area with a raised ridge ring while some 510 are only a 2 x 4mm rextangle 2mm deep.
The crimp has the possibility of oxidizing from repeated heating and cooling making a poor connection.
Best thing to do is start trying possibilities !
Good luck and post some pics of your work if you can.
There just isnt much room in the cermaic cup to work and the metal foam across the bottom lends way for an easy short. The pins of the socket fit perfectly into the top of the same connector from the socket. My method was to solder and crimp.
Not much room to work in a 510, 901 cup, but an 801 has possibilities.
Cup styles differ also. Some are a open area with a raised ridge ring while some 510 are only a 2 x 4mm rextangle 2mm deep.
The crimp has the possibility of oxidizing from repeated heating and cooling making a poor connection.
Best thing to do is start trying possibilities !
Good luck and post some pics of your work if you can.
Is this what you are describing?
The way I understood it, one of the leads is bent around in place at the bottom of the threads on #3, kinda thick, so that it pinches against the bottom of #4's recieving socket. The other lead goes into the threads somehow to be pinched against the recieving socket's threads. Let me know if I got it right... but the "pinching" idea sounds pretty cool. Right now I am crimping copper around Nichrome and something like this seems to be a convenient and truly replaceable method.
The way I understood it, one of the leads is bent around in place at the bottom of the threads on #3, kinda thick, so that it pinches against the bottom of #4's recieving socket. The other lead goes into the threads somehow to be pinched against the recieving socket's threads. Let me know if I got it right... but the "pinching" idea sounds pretty cool. Right now I am crimping copper around Nichrome and something like this seems to be a convenient and truly replaceable method.
That is so close to the picture I have here it is almost scary...
How did you draw and post it? I have corel draw here, can save in many formats.
If you pm me with an e-mail, I'll draw out my design and send it to you.
I think I simplified the replacement even more.
How did you draw and post it? I have corel draw here, can save in many formats.
If you pm me with an e-mail, I'll draw out my design and send it to you.
I think I simplified the replacement even more.
It could be bigger than the e-cig, as long as the final threading fits something. Could look like a e-cig thats pregnant in the middle, the extra room should allow more airflow and provide bigger vapes.
You're not dumb, just less trained in science/engineering than some.
If you're talking about using Copper as the heating element, the problem with your idea is that you need a metal which resists the flow of electricity and by resisting, transforms the energy in the flow of electrons into heat which is used to heat e-liquid to the vapor point. You need something where the ability to block electron flow is somewhere between rubber (super insulator) and, say gold (really, really good conductor).
Copper won't work because it's one of the better conductors and you would have to pump a ton of current through it to heat it up.
Here is something I posted in another thread. Not sure if it will help at all. Hope it does.
Here is a modular atomizer such that if you make your own coils you can easily replace just the coil portion in about 2 minutes once you have the coil made. This is on the German forum and you have to register to see the thread. Once you register click this link.
Also if you are worried about not being able to read it because it is in German... use Google Translator. Need some molding techniques and such but I think once you make one... you might be set for quite a while.
I would like to ask if anyone could post a guide on this (not a copy of theirs please) or post ideas if you have any on how to make suck a contraption.
Here is a modular atomizer such that if you make your own coils you can easily replace just the coil portion in about 2 minutes once you have the coil made. This is on the German forum and you have to register to see the thread. Once you register click this link.
Also if you are worried about not being able to read it because it is in German... use Google Translator. Need some molding techniques and such but I think once you make one... you might be set for quite a while.
I would like to ask if anyone could post a guide on this (not a copy of theirs please) or post ideas if you have any on how to make suck a contraption.
I'd love to see it!!!
And, I would do it, but I'm sure some kind of background knowledge would be required.
And, I would do it, but I'm sure some kind of background knowledge would be required.
What are the requirements for a heating element?
Is it 3-6 Volts 3.7 ohms? I am highly uncertain of this stuff I have no knowledge of it. I suppose with 3-6 volts and 3.7 ohms it would get to temp in less than a second?
Also what temperature range is safe?
Is it 3-6 Volts 3.7 ohms? I am highly uncertain of this stuff I have no knowledge of it. I suppose with 3-6 volts and 3.7 ohms it would get to temp in less than a second?
Also what temperature range is safe?
Voltage = Amps * Ohms
Most batteries are 3.7V with a 2.7-3.7 Ohm resistance atomizer. That means there is an amp or maybe more going through the coil. Resistance depends only on Nichrome gage and length. For example, 38ga NiCr60 is 42 Ohms/ft. The smaller it is, the higher the resistance/ft will be.
You want to try to stay under 260C as that is when VG could decompose into Acrolein (bad). But you also probably want to get as high of a temp as you can.
Most batteries are 3.7V with a 2.7-3.7 Ohm resistance atomizer. That means there is an amp or maybe more going through the coil. Resistance depends only on Nichrome gage and length. For example, 38ga NiCr60 is 42 Ohms/ft. The smaller it is, the higher the resistance/ft will be.
You want to try to stay under 260C as that is when VG could decompose into Acrolein (bad). But you also probably want to get as high of a temp as you can.
nasa came out with a new method to place small tubes using friction to generate the heat to only melt outer layers. If the needles would be painted with layers low melting point then high melting point materials, then filled with a coolent to diffuse the heat of the needles you might be able to use the method.
I know it sounds stupid but if I can contribute a little it might work
I know it sounds stupid but if I can contribute a little it might work
what, if any, are the disadvantages to using stainless steel wire. as far as pro's its very durable, it has 83% of the resistance of nicrome and would therefore produce more surface area (assuming 2.7-3.7 ohms would produce the same heating results) just a thought.
Dustin D
Dustin D
83% the resistance makes for a longer wire to put in such a small place.
Actually, I don't have an answer other than length. Both contain chrome.
A search of it being used is not easily found. It makes one wonder if it isn't more brittle after repeated heating and cooling cycles.
It would be logical to think nichrome is either more durable or just cheaper , with a higher resistance using less material for the same purpose.
An 801 atty would be the one to try it in since it has the largest area of the ones I've had to work with.
Most attys use 38ga instead of the 36ga I use. Using a larger longer wire is more "active" thermal mass which is to the advantage. My reason to go with 36ga, not 38ga. The larger dia is much more resistant to breakage and overall more durable.
If you have some or a cheap source, it would make a nice project to try and a thread abt it. You may find it better than conventional nichrome, at a slightly higher cost.
Then its "useful life" could be tested and weighed against the cost.
Actually, I don't have an answer other than length. Both contain chrome.
A search of it being used is not easily found. It makes one wonder if it isn't more brittle after repeated heating and cooling cycles.
It would be logical to think nichrome is either more durable or just cheaper , with a higher resistance using less material for the same purpose.
An 801 atty would be the one to try it in since it has the largest area of the ones I've had to work with.
Most attys use 38ga instead of the 36ga I use. Using a larger longer wire is more "active" thermal mass which is to the advantage. My reason to go with 36ga, not 38ga. The larger dia is much more resistant to breakage and overall more durable.
If you have some or a cheap source, it would make a nice project to try and a thread abt it. You may find it better than conventional nichrome, at a slightly higher cost.
Then its "useful life" could be tested and weighed against the cost.
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thanks for the speedy reply. unfortunately i could only find it on 2500' spools, the good news you ask, its $9 per spool. i love to tinker unfortunately my hands will be tied from feb1 till mid april at the very min, as i will be in Basic training. aeroconsystems has the wire if anyone wants to try it before i get a chance to. they also have pre made electric match heads used for blasting, inexpensive and may work to our advantage as well, but they are designed to be destroyed upon use so who knows.
Dustin D
Dustin D
i still have 1.5 months till i ship, but lots'o xmas gifts yet to purchase. if i can afford it and have time ill buy some, shop it up in a few feet lengths and ship it to some that have been working on this stuff far longer than me. the PDF file on the 40 awg wire is an interesting read full annealing takes place from 1000-1120deg C and the "carbide precipitation phenomenon" doesnt begin to appear until 427degrees, well above what we will be trying to reach with it. anyway more reading to do, all this is still new and new information is addictive.
Dustin D
Dustin D
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