Just got mine in from Phiniac. All prettied up. Question is do you leave out the fill screw or keep it in. Mine gets a really nasty taste after just 2 vapes. (But OMG it is beautiful)
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I leave it out with my thicker juices but put it back in with thinner juices. Keep in mind you don't need to run a sub ohm coil with this. Around 11-12 watts seems to be the sweet spot on this for me. I think you'll run in to wicking problems much higher than 13 watts.
Thanks I don't do many sub ohms (if ever) Was looking for 1.8-2.0 and hit a 1.9!!!!! First wick was a pre-rolled 325X325 from a previous build. Never used it before. This time it's 400X400. looks good so far. I'll know in a day or two.
Well after trying 4 different attempts at getting this little beauty set up like I want it, I've got 400 SS with 30 Kanthal that ohms out at 1.8.
I'm still not getting good wicking from it with the fill screw in. Also the center post nut is also starting to strip out. I'm using a 70PG/30VG mix.
As much as I hate to say it, this thing reminds me if those cheep chobra clones I started out with. At the moment the only good thing I'll say is that the finish and art work it has is typical BEAUTIFUL Phiniac quality. (Phiniac can sure make some beautiful products.).
I'm still not getting good wicking from it with the fill screw in. Also the center post nut is also starting to strip out. I'm using a 70PG/30VG mix.
As much as I hate to say it, this thing reminds me if those cheep chobra clones I started out with. At the moment the only good thing I'll say is that the finish and art work it has is typical BEAUTIFUL Phiniac quality. (Phiniac can sure make some beautiful products.).
Are you sure the nut is stripped or in the post spinning? As for the wicking you might have to run it with out the fill screw, mine doesn't leak with it out laying on its side. How did you roll the wick? I made a solid wick rolled as tight as I could get it, I had to lay it down and roll it on the table pressing as hard as could. Mine is loose in the wick hole also.
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I rolled a straw wick that's loose in the hole.
I'm ashamed of the previous post.
I mounted it on my Legacy mini. Took 2 dry hits and it was wonderful!!!!! I really don't believe I had the wick primed enough. Hey for this kinda pocket friendly rba'S. FIll screw in and no leaks. This might just work out. (Least I hope so. She is to beautiful to not use. )
I'm ashamed of the previous post.
I mounted it on my Legacy mini. Took 2 dry hits and it was wonderful!!!!! I really don't believe I had the wick primed enough. Hey for this kinda pocket friendly rba'S. FIll screw in and no leaks. This might just work out. (Least I hope so. She is to beautiful to not use. )
having fantastic results with 500 mesh and 3 wraps of 32 ga on my rsst. If you think about it, all rba's should logically perform the same as long as the build is right. Maybe I'm wrong though but they're a pretty simple system
You know... on the surface it may appear simple but really there are a lot of things to consider in order to set each one up optimally and some of the details are subjective so they differ from person to person what is "right" for them. In short, it looks to be a simple system but when you consider all of the details there are a lot of things to consider.
The type of material for the coils.. nichrome or kanthal is probably a good place to start. Everyone seems to have their own preference although... kanthal is currently the more popular. The way you make the coils also determine how something vapes... a standard coil ( with spaces between the wires ) vs a micro coil are two such differences. How much surface area the coils has will also determine how saturated the flavor and vapor is.
Wicking... The type of material used and the style it is made in will determine how quickly it wicks. If you wick too quickly, it "floods" the coils and they don't get hot enough, too slow and you get burnt hits. People also are more or less sensitive to the flavor the wicks themselves have... I can lightly taste metal when using a stainless mesh but others can't... I can't taste silica but many can. Of course there are other materials that are commonly used such as ceramic, natural cotton, bamboo fiber or hemp fibers with each having their own behavior on how they wick.
Air... the amount of it coming into the chamber, the location of the hole vs the coil, the size of the chamber inside the unit all play roles in the final type of vape you have. How you actually vape... ie the pull you use, whether you pull direct into the lungs or your mouth first. How quickly you pull... all of these come into play and often, each person will have their own preferences.
Now once you've put each part of the above differences ( as well as ones I didn't mention ) together... you get RDA's and RBA's each which have their own qualities and add in how each component you use behaves along with each of our own preferences... you get a bit more complex picture than what it may appear at first glance.
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rdsok, Thank you for this insight. If it is alright with you I would love to add this to the knowledgebase articles and give you full credit for it. If it is ok with you?
You may... I added/edited it slightly to try and widen the subject so it also mentions to also consider things I didn't mention directly
@ GoodInk I know it has been months, adn yo probably have solved your problems, but I recently solved a problem I had with a terminal screw. I removed all the nuts ecept the bottom one, slipped a small spring over the threaded post, added a washer then re-installed the nut and ren down to where i wanted the hot leg. After that, just push the washer down with thumbnail and wrap the wire around the post, spring tension keeps it all in contact
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