I found the stock magnets makes better conductivity. I think this is due to the fact that their inner diameter is smaller than the inner diameter of the opening where the screw post go in. You can feel the switch less wobbly than using a spring. I will try adjusting the throw and using the stock magnets.
Ba Gua firing problems
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If you add a shim (paper/cardboard or whatever) between the plastic insulator and the contact, the shim will raise the contact closer to the battery by the thickness of that shim; effectively moving the contact closer to the battery in the opened position. Hence requiring less distance for the contact to come up to meet that battery, hence shorting the throw. A shim too thick will create a short within the mod tho, so keep an eye out for that..
When you say between the plastic insulator and the contact, do you mean under the plastic insulator? Do i remove the plastic insulator? I understand the concept, but i fail to see where the paper goes lol.
Yeah, just FYI (for anyone else) Efest 14500's are too long the this device. Got um for free so no worries on that, I'm off to RTD... oooohh they have those 10A high drain Panasonic 650's too
The flat top efest 14500s fit perfectly with no gaps. The button tops will not fit and you will have gaps in your mod. If you want to use aw imrs, the button top 14500s will fit with no gaps.
If you're intersted in efest imrs, check out efestbattery dot com, they have good prices and from what I can tell, they seem to be authentic.
Cheers
Teamrampagevapor sell bagua replacement magnets for $1 each if you're interested in experimenting with heating them up. Shipping is $10 though.
Good Call: A reduction of the OD rather than the ID for replacement magnets would be better. If tolerating was right I believe I would want to just reduce the thickness.
No, I wouldn't remove the insulator. Again, guessing, but I would place the shim between the insulator and brass contact.
The flat top efest 14500s fit perfectly with no gaps. The button tops will not fit and you will have gaps in your mod. If you want to use aw imrs, the button top 14500s will fit with no gaps.
If you're intersted in efest imrs, check out efestbattery dot com, they have good prices and from what I can tell, they seem to be authentic.
Cheers
Yup, forgot the specify, nipple top Efest are a no go in the Ba.
Cool! thanks for the link.
Got my Ba Gua yesterday. Yeah, those stock magnets are pretty stiff. Concerning the heating of magnets, yes, it will make them less strong, although on another forum people discussed that and the stiffness will return if I remember correctly.
I will try the shim method and report back.
I will try the shim method and report back.
On the magnet side, heating will reduce the push, but you need to be careful, you can heat them too much and end up with a washer. After playing around with both the spring and magnets set up, the spring really works well. Grab the spring replacements from Rampage, but ditch the spring, its the brass cup you want, it houses the spring and works as a stabilizer. You can find small springs that are a bit tougher at any local hardware store, just make sure the spring, when compressed, has a shorter length than the cup housing so you don't have button gap.
I'd order it but just ordering the spring would be silly w/ s/h fees... anyone that is ordering let me know. In the meantime, how do you get the negative screw from the switch out?! It just spins even when locked.
Regarding heating the magnets, my guess is that I would get carried away w/ my torch, as I have been know to.
Been looking at 1mm thick brass washers and small ND disk magnets:
BRASS WASHER 7/16" Dia with 13/64" Hole (18ga) (Pkg of 20)
SuperMagnetMan Super disc magnet
Seems like magnets equally spaced and fixed to the washer w/ silver conductive epoxy might do the trick. I'm not sure of the tolerancing of washers but 13/64" ID = ~5.16mm. The OD of my button stem is 5.14mm, so with a little polishing of the washer, it might make for a highly conductive switch w/ almost zero wobble.
I have what I believe to be a first batch (?) from a trade, sn 487. The brass screw/contact in the switch is threaded typical. So I just held the switch by the bottom button and twisted counter-clockwise. Very straight forward; so it seems like there maybe something else going on w/ yours Turbo, hopefully some else chimes in.
I may place an order w/ rampage soon, like tonight soon. The problem I am having is when I fill my cart, all of a sudden, it's at ~ $297.50. So I've been contemplating selling something locally, an unloved hybrid. If it goes I will pull the rampage trigger.
Been looking at 1mm thick brass washers and small ND disk magnets:
BRASS WASHER 7/16" Dia with 13/64" Hole (18ga) (Pkg of 20)
SuperMagnetMan Super disc magnet
Seems like magnets equally spaced and fixed to the washer w/ silver conductive epoxy might do the trick. I'm not sure of the tolerancing of washers but 13/64" ID = ~5.16mm. The OD of my button stem is 5.14mm, so with a little polishing of the washer, it might make for a highly conductive switch w/ almost zero wobble.
I have what I believe to be a first batch (?) from a trade, sn 487. The brass screw/contact in the switch is threaded typical. So I just held the switch by the bottom button and twisted counter-clockwise. Very straight forward; so it seems like there maybe something else going on w/ yours Turbo, hopefully some else chimes in.
I may place an order w/ rampage soon, like tonight soon. The problem I am having is when I fill my cart, all of a sudden, it's at ~ $297.50. So I've been contemplating selling something locally, an unloved hybrid. If it goes I will pull the rampage trigger.
hold the button head firmly and unscrew the brass screw with a screwdriver. I don't see why it shouldn't work.
Regarding heating the magnets, my guess is that I would get carried away w/ my torch, as I have been know to.
Been looking at 1mm thick brass washers and small ND disk magnets:
BRASS WASHER 7/16" Dia with 13/64" Hole (18ga) (Pkg of 20)
SuperMagnetMan Super disc magnet
Seems like magnets equally spaced and fixed to the washer w/ silver conductive epoxy might do the trick. I'm not sure of the tolerancing of washers but 13/64" ID = ~5.16mm. The OD of my button stem is 5.14mm, so with a little polishing of the washer, it might make for a highly conductive switch w/ almost zero wobble.
I have what I believe to be a first batch (?) from a trade, sn 487. The brass screw/contact in the switch is threaded typical. So I just held the switch by the bottom button and twisted counter-clockwise. Very straight forward; so it seems like there maybe something else going on w/ yours Turbo, hopefully some else chimes in.
I may place an order w/ rampage soon, like tonight soon. The problem I am having is when I fill my cart, all of a sudden, it's at ~ $297.50. So I've been contemplating selling something locally, an unloved hybrid. If it goes I will pull the rampage trigger.
If you get these stuff let me know of the results, maybe it will solve my problems once and for all!
Well, did not order from Rampage, as my deal fell through...
Almost did order from rampage, but! not willing to pay shipping for that brass cup.
However I did order the brass washers and some 1mm thick ND ring magnets. Depending on the setup, ie if a stock magnet can still be used in the button/stem portion of the switch I should have enough materials to assemble a minimum of four.
But, I wont receive the magnets or washers for aprox 5-6 days. So sit tight guys.
My main goal here is to preserve the magnetic design while limiting voltage drop across the switch. With a 14500 internal resistance of a mod can be a real SOB.
Will def post my findings.
Almost did order from rampage, but! not willing to pay shipping for that brass cup.
However I did order the brass washers and some 1mm thick ND ring magnets. Depending on the setup, ie if a stock magnet can still be used in the button/stem portion of the switch I should have enough materials to assemble a minimum of four.
But, I wont receive the magnets or washers for aprox 5-6 days. So sit tight guys.
My main goal here is to preserve the magnetic design while limiting voltage drop across the switch. With a 14500 internal resistance of a mod can be a real SOB.
Will def post my findings.
I guess you could run a spring rather than a magnet with a brass washer. the clincher as far as voltage drop goes is going to be how closely the ID of the washer matches the the OD of the button stem, and how well that brass washer is making contact with the switch assembly.
I guess one test is worth a thousand expert opinions. We'll see how it all shakes out.
I guess one test is worth a thousand expert opinions. We'll see how it all shakes out.
I'm away from home for a few days, but will try to unscrew the button again, shouldn't be so tricky...lol
I saw on another forum a member ordered these magnets but said the ID isn't quite the same, that it has great travel but is a bit wobbly but good for him.
With the above info I'm sure it won't meet others criteria but thought I'd share anyway.
I saw on another forum a member ordered these magnets but said the ID isn't quite the same, that it has great travel but is a bit wobbly but good for him.
With the above info I'm sure it won't meet others criteria but thought I'd share anyway.
Turbo, cool! No, thanks for sharing. The magnets I chose are the same class (N35) and almost the same ID and OD but they are 1mm thick rather than 2mm.
So, a quick update.
I received the magnets today (Super Magnet Man, P/N R1005C). I replaced the lower (button/stem) magnet with one of the R1005C's, left the upper portion of the switch stock. And....
BUTTER!!!
However, the wobble is the same as stock and I am still experiencing somewhat of a V drop depending on angle of button press. But! this is what I expected with a stock magnet in the upper switch assembly.
My point is, button travel is smooth. Slightly lighter than a Poldiac and the mod w/ drip atty stands up, unlocked, w/o firing.
Brass washers wont be here till Friday.
I am planing to bond a R1005C to the washer with silver conductive epoxy (good thing I already had some because it's not cheap). I will run a stock magnet in the lower, and my mag/washer assy in the upper, with washer facing out. I'm hoping this will shore up the button stem/ get rid of the wobble and V drop.
BTW, since it seems that one stock magnet can still be used I should have enough materials for eight of these.
Anyone else experience the button slightly unscrewing from switch contact from normal use?? I mean I didn't really crank drown the contact. I'm thinking a good 1/8 turn with screwdriver will solve this.
So, a quick update.
I received the magnets today (Super Magnet Man, P/N R1005C). I replaced the lower (button/stem) magnet with one of the R1005C's, left the upper portion of the switch stock. And....
BUTTER!!!
However, the wobble is the same as stock and I am still experiencing somewhat of a V drop depending on angle of button press. But! this is what I expected with a stock magnet in the upper switch assembly.
My point is, button travel is smooth. Slightly lighter than a Poldiac and the mod w/ drip atty stands up, unlocked, w/o firing.
Brass washers wont be here till Friday.
I am planing to bond a R1005C to the washer with silver conductive epoxy (good thing I already had some because it's not cheap). I will run a stock magnet in the lower, and my mag/washer assy in the upper, with washer facing out. I'm hoping this will shore up the button stem/ get rid of the wobble and V drop.
BTW, since it seems that one stock magnet can still be used I should have enough materials for eight of these.
Anyone else experience the button slightly unscrewing from switch contact from normal use?? I mean I didn't really crank drown the contact. I'm thinking a good 1/8 turn with screwdriver will solve this.
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Just got home to find my Mini B came a day early, thanks Idaholandho!
God the anticipation over these little brass washers is kinda getting to me, hahah.
If it works out, the pay out (as far as personal satisfaction) will definitely be worth it to me.
If it doesn't... Man I'm ah feel stupid.
I mean I can't see why it wouldn't work; but then again, I'll be the first to admit I'm not always right. I remember the first progressive stamping die I designed... Complete failure, Bahahah.
IDK, just could not bring myself to spend 13+ USD on that cup spring thing.
Anyways, just bumping the thread I guess, and gloating over vape mail..
God the anticipation over these little brass washers is kinda getting to me, hahah.
If it works out, the pay out (as far as personal satisfaction) will definitely be worth it to me.
If it doesn't... Man I'm ah feel stupid.
I mean I can't see why it wouldn't work; but then again, I'll be the first to admit I'm not always right. I remember the first progressive stamping die I designed... Complete failure, Bahahah.
IDK, just could not bring myself to spend 13+ USD on that cup spring thing.
Anyways, just bumping the thread I guess, and gloating over vape mail..
Pretty long day, epic day in vape..
Washers where waiting for me when I got home but that was only a couple hours ago.
I will say that the washers drop into the switch upper assy w/o issue. I am hoping to have full rundown with some considerable vape time on the mag/washer assy by Monday.
Unrelated, but I picked up a TI Storm Rider 2.1 today
Washers where waiting for me when I got home but that was only a couple hours ago.
I will say that the washers drop into the switch upper assy w/o issue. I am hoping to have full rundown with some considerable vape time on the mag/washer assy by Monday.
Unrelated, but I picked up a TI Storm Rider 2.1 today
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