Battery 1.2volts mod, give out 3.0volts how?

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mogur

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Apr 24, 2009
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Detailed? Well, I could bore you, but what you need is simple. 1XAA 1.2 volt or better does matter. It matters because you wont get anything out of a 1.2 volt battery. The atomizer (it doesn't matter which) needs to see 3.3 volts minimum. Look at what you said... ''1.2 volt battery or better, 3 volts of current with the 1.2volt battery.' You don't even make sense. Do you realize that lithium batteries are dangerous? Current and voltage are totally different. If you are going to play, please don't do it with lithiums. NiCads and metal hydrides are safer, but leave the lithiums alone. You want 3 volts out of 1.2? Google boost converter. I don't mean to be mean, but this is nothing to just stab at, you really need to know the difference between voltage and amperage, and then understand how dangerous lithiums are. Sorry, my dog just died, so i don't have much patience.
 

ApOsTle51

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Aug 29, 2008
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The nicostick uses a AAA sized Lithium Ion cell . It's much the same physical size as a 1.5volt AAA Ni-Cd battery but has a 3.7volt output.

It uses a 10440 sized Lithium battery. They need to have a special lithium battery charger. the charger or the battery need to be ' protected ' meaning it has protection from overcharging.

If you have never used Lithium cells before then do as mogur says and read up and educate yourself about them first because yes , they can be dangerous if not treated correctly.
 

walterdsouzajr

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Apr 18, 2009
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Detailed? Well, I could bore you, but what you need is simple. 1XAA 1.2 volt or better does matter. It matters because you wont get anything out of a 1.2 volt battery. The atomizer (it doesn't matter which) needs to see 3.3 volts minimum. Look at what you said... ''1.2 volt battery or better, 3 volts of current with the 1.2volt battery.' You don't even make sense. Do you realize that lithium batteries are dangerous? Current and voltage are totally different. If you are going to play, please don't do it with lithiums. NiCads and metal hydrides are safer, but leave the lithiums alone. You want 3 volts out of 1.2? Google boost converter. I don't mean to be mean, but this is nothing to just stab at, you really need to know the difference between voltage and amperage, and then understand how dangerous lithiums are. Sorry, my dog just died, so i don't have much patience.

sorry about that. i was buzzing.
 

walterdsouzajr

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Apr 18, 2009
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Detailed? Well, I could bore you, but what you need is simple. 1XAA 1.2 volt or better does matter. It matters because you wont get anything out of a 1.2 volt battery. The atomizer (it doesn't matter which) needs to see 3.3 volts minimum. Look at what you said... ''1.2 volt battery or better, 3 volts of current with the 1.2volt battery.' You don't even make sense. Do you realize that lithium batteries are dangerous? Current and voltage are totally different. If you are going to play, please don't do it with lithiums. NiCads and metal hydrides are safer, but leave the lithiums alone. You want 3 volts out of 1.2? Google boost converter. I don't mean to be mean, but this is nothing to just stab at, you really need to know the difference between voltage and amperage, and then understand how dangerous lithiums are. Sorry, my dog just died, so i don't have much patience.


when i sai current. i thought it was understood.
 

mogur

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Apr 24, 2009
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Walter, this is what I meant to say. Lithium ions can be the same size as 1.2 volt or 1.5 alkalines/metal hydrides/nicads. They put out 3.7v average, so there is no modification of the battery holder needed, since you're getting 3.7v from a single cell. But they are inherently dangerous if you charge/discharge them too fast, or overcharge them. That was what I was ranting about.

They also can deliver relatively huge currents on the order of 1 amp for short periods. Since atomizers need that magnitude of current, alkalines/metal hydrides/nicads fail to measure up, since they can only produce hundreds of milliamps current. Even if you put several non-li-ion cells in series to get the required voltage, there isn't enough current produced to fire off the heater coil in an ecig atomizer. I am sure several non-li-ion D cells could power an ecig, but who wants a car battery in their shirt pocket?
 

Sun Vaporer

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Jan 2, 2009
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Walter, this is what I meant to say. Lithium ions can be the same size as 1.2 volt or 1.5 alkalines/metal hydrides/nicads. They put out 3.7v average, so there is no modification of the battery holder needed, since you're getting 3.7v from a single cell. But they are inherently dangerous if you charge/discharge them too fast, or overcharge them. That was what I was ranting about.

They also can deliver relatively huge currents on the order of 1 amp for short periods. Since atomizers need that magnitude of current, alkalines/metal hydrides/nicads fail to measure up, since they can only produce hundreds of milliamps current. Even if you put several non-li-ion cells in series to get the required voltage, there isn't enough current produced to fire off the heater coil in an ecig atomizer. I am sure several non-li-ion D cells could power an ecig, but who wants a car battery in their shirt pocket?


Mogur--3 1.5V AAA's in series works great for me--fires up the atomizer very nicely just so you are aware of that if that is what you are saying-------------Sun
 

mogur

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Apr 24, 2009
192
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Whidbey Island, WA
Mogur--3 1.5V AAA's in series works great for me--fires up the atomizer very nicely just so you are aware of that if that is what you are saying-------------Sun

Yes, exactly what I was saying. And I am wrong, again. I thought AAA's didn't have the amperage. I stand corrected. I am here to learn, not teach, just thought I would throw out what experience I've had with electronics. (And trying to build my post count so I can post links, pictures, etc.) I have only built one ecig mod so far, but my electronic experience is obviously over-shadowed by my lack of ecig experience.

Maybe the consensus that it takes over an amp of current is wrong. AAA's simply can't supply that. Well, back to the bench, I'll shut up, now. Grin.
 

mogur

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Apr 24, 2009
192
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Whidbey Island, WA
Damn, I researched this exhaustively, I thought. Alkalines were wimpy compared to Lithiums for max continuous current drain. The lit I saw on alkalines were all specifying 50-100ma of current. Within minutes of your post, Sun, I found some charts from 'Energizer' that claim AAAs can discharge continuously at 1.5 amps and intermittently at 2.0 amps. The charts, which I can't yet post, include lithiums at the same discharge rate, but which demonstrate twice the lifetime of alkalines at the same rates (600mA). So, the conclusion is that while alkalines are intended for smaller discharge rates than lithiums, they indeed can handle atomizer currents, albeit with a shorter charge cycle than lith. Live and learn, thanks Sun.
 

tjgame

Full Member
Aug 25, 2009
8
0
south west PA
Check out the energizer AA rechargable , they claim 2500mAh on the lable . I have used them befor not ecig stuff , and they can crank out amps .

I have 4 in a battery pack right now that been going for a good 8-9 hours , 4-5 hours last night then 4-5 more hours this morning , the batterys dont even get warm so I know I'm not beating on them . And I only have to take a quick 3-4 second drag to get a huge cloud. I'm lovin this thing . And in a pinch I could use regular/non rechargable AA's with a little amp loss. It dont look good at all , but it does work really good .
 
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