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Battery headache question

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Oriana871

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Please help a girl out, cause it hurts my brain sometimes reading miles of technical posts, most of which I don't understand. Sorry I'm sure it's been asked a gazillion times.

So I bought a K100, and I'm not nearly at the point of rba's yet, but I will have the mod at least. In the meantime, I know I can only use 1.8-2.0ohm stuff on it. So I got a Kick, which will work with the AW IMR 18500's.

Now for other battery sizes (18350 & 18650), the question is:

Unprotected or protected batteries?

Is it: Unprotected for RBA and protected for VV type vaping?

That's all I want to know really....

Also if I'm not doing the RBA stuff, do I need to get a voltage reader?

Thanks muchly, my head will appreciate it :)
 
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Talyon

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From what I've read u well be ok with the chemically safe batteries for your mech mod, that's what I use.

U don't need a digital voltage meter at this point. If u have a vv/VW mod u can use that to test coils.

However it's a good idea to have a meter for testing various components. Try Canadian Tire, or the Source, or Home depot etc just get a semi cheap meter, as a Fluke well cost u several hundred bucks. Princess Auto sells them as well I think.
 

ubergeek922

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Yeah was planning on getting 3 sizes of the AW IMRs. But then I start reading and as you know, it get's complicated. So are you saying that RBAing aside, those batts are just fine? And do I really need a voltage reader at this point?

I'm using a mech right now with an rsst (rba) on top with the IMRs in it no problem. The very reason I bought the imrs to begin with is because they are suitable for whatever i throw at them (excluding crazy sub-ohm builds).
 

Heavyrocker

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If you use a mech,use IMR safe chemistryhigh drain batts,dont use the ''protected'' types as they are not as powerful and can explode if the the batt is faulty.Most clero style tanks,like the Evod and Novas have coils wrapped at 1.8 too 2.8 ohms and mechs work better with ohms below 1.2 to .50.You could rebuild the cleros too under 1.2 if you wish.But if you do this ya may as well get a RBA,the RSST is the best right now.If ya dont have a ohm reader or a Mod VV/VW to check batt levels and ohms you WILL need one for safety.I use my VAMO too check batts and ohms.
 
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Oriana871

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Thanks I'll just stick to the AW IMR's as planned, and use LR stuff until I get into the RBA - maybe this won't rock the mech, but it will still vape just fine for now. Plus I got a Kick for my other tanks. I'm aware of what the mech mods are specifically good for but I've seen lots of examples of them being used with regular LR delivery systems.

I'll pick up some safety fuses and a reader nonetheless.

Plus I like the look of the K100 and generally do not like any of the larger VV mods.
 

Alter

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The kick will only work with IMR batteries. I found the flatops work better with a kick than the button tops, but the button tops do work. Take some 300-600 grit sandpaper and sand the kicks battery points, sand the contact points of your mech and rough up the inside of the mech's tube where the kick's ground sits. I've been using kicks in a K100, sigelei #20, #23 and the Kamry KTS and have had no problems. I'm on the hunt for a mech that will accomodate a 650 battery with a kick, so far all I've found just allows 350 and 500's with a kick.
 

Heavyrocker

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Thanks I'll just stick to the AW IMR's as planned, and use LR stuff until I get into the RBA - maybe this won't rock the mech, but it will still vape just fine for now. Plus I got a Kick for my other tanks. I'm aware of what the mech mods are specifically good for but I've seen lots of examples of them being used with regular LR delivery systems.

I'll pick up some safety fuses and a reader nonetheless.

Plus I like the look of the K100 and generally do not like any of the larger VV mods.

You will ''sacrifice'' battery power with the kick in the sense of length of batt life,but it will increase the vape quality a bit,i have no use for kick.I just got the Sentinal clone/RSST tank rocking with 2/3 wraps at .6 ohms using SS cable.BTW...never use a over charged batt in a mech,if it comes of the charger over 4.2 V dont use it,this is why you need a battery checker.
 
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Oriana871

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You will ''sacrifice'' battery power with the kick in the sense of length of batt life,but it will increase the vape quality a bit,i have no use for kick.I just got the Sentinal clone/RSST tank rocking with 2/3 wraps at .6 ohms using SS cable.


Yeah well obviously you're much more advanced and so I totally understand why you would feel that way, but I'm just not there yet so.... I gotta do what I gotta do in the meantime.
 

mise

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I'll try to keep it simple... but the disclaimer is I'm an Engineer so take it as you will.

Protected vs. Unprotected

Protected Batteries. These batteries are for "unsafe" chemistry batteries which is typically ICR (Lithium Cobalt). These are the batteries that require a protection circuit. The protection circuit is not to protect the user but the battery itself from short circuits, over-charging, and keeping the voltage from dropping too low. Although it should be said that the protection circuit does add a certain amount of protection to the user it was not added with that intention. Even protected ICR batteries will blow up if you're not careful. For unprotected ICR batteries... these batteries are for use with mods that PROVIDE a protection circuit. If you're using a pure mech mod, do not use an unprotected ICR batteries.

IMR (Lithium Manganese) batteries such as the AWs have safe chemistry. These are generally considered safer than ICR batteries but they can still fail. I believe they have a few fail-safes built into the design of the battery as well but as a rule of thumb... fail-safe mechanisms can still fail. IMRs are safer then ICRs but they have a lower battery capacity.

RBAs and sub-ohm coils.

This is a completely different subject then the "Protected vs. Unprotected". What's important here is the amount of current (currents are measured in amps) you can draw from your battery. Recommended batteries such as the AW and Panasonics are rated for higher capacity draw and will generally work safely with almost anything you throw at it. IMR has a higher current rating whereas ICR has a lower current rating. For RBAs and mech mods, go with IMR.

Now about the safety issues... I won't get into the tiny details of this but not all batteries are built equally. This also runs true for the AW 18350/18490/18650. Just keep in mind that the lower the resistance of the coil, the more current it draws. If you're drawing more current then the battery allows... well the best thing that can happen is you shorten the overall life span of the battery and the worst thing that can happen is it overloads and explodes. Factors that can be considered in which scenario plays out is the build quality, the manufacturer, the atmospheric temperature/pressure, etc, etc. I consider anything above 1.0 ohms to be safe territory and the majority of recommended batteries will work fine.

For sub-ohm coils, use batteries that have higher current capacities. My recommendation is only use AW 18650 for anything below 0.7 ohms. You can use AW 18350/18490s... but there's a chance things can go wrong, albeit a very small chance.

If you're going to build RBAs, get a multi-meter. If you just using off the shelf atomizers there's really no need for one but its nice to have one kicking around for troubleshooting.
 
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Ill_Rev_J

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I echo the above (as an Electrical engineering tech), and would also add that the multimeter is useful to ensure you don't over discharge the battery (offhand, I believe that letting them drop below 2.7 V or so will shorten their life.) AW's are Panasonics, just certified to be first-run, if you will, not 2nd grade ones that one might get from a less trustworthy supplier. (Just in case you didn't know, took me a little while to figure that out.)

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4
 

mise

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I echo the above (as an Electrical engineering tech), and would also add that the multimeter is useful to ensure you don't over discharge the battery (offhand, I believe that letting them drop below 2.7 V or so will shorten their life.) AW's are Panasonics, just certified to be first-run, if you will, not 2nd grade ones that one might get from a less trustworthy supplier. (Just in case you didn't know, took me a little while to figure that out.)

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 4

AW stands for Andrew Wong, a guy in Hong Kong. Last I heard, he was a one man show who buys top grade batteries from manufacturers, runs them through a test to confirm the quality, and re-wraps them under his own AW brand. I don't think he has actually revealed his suppliers yet but I could be wrong. Then again he's running a business and he could simply change manufacturers/suppliers at any point in time due to pricing/availability/logistics/etc and we'd never know.
 
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