Battery Life - Vapedroid 75w vs Vaporflask 100w

[river.guy]

I bought the Vaporflask Stout sometime last year and that was my daily carry up until a week or so ago. Recently upgraded to the Vapedroid DNA75 bought from gearbest. Pretty sure it is an authentic board. Started with an MXJO 26650 battery that wasn't the exact one Mooch tested, but worked good none the less. Later I added two Bassen 4500 MAH 26650's.

The battery life on the Stout using all of them was great. Got to vape all day no problem, plus a little extra. Since upgrading to the vapedroid, my battery life has gone down approximately 40%. Barely make it through a work day. I typically vape in temp control mode using stainless steel wire dual coils between .15 and .2 resistance. Even using it in power mode at around 55 Watts I noticed a difference. vaping a single coil setup, the difference is there but not quite as obvious.

I am curious to know what some of you that may have had experience with both of these mods think. Is the board in the DNA 75 more accurate? The batteries have all blinked a few times before they get to the end of useful life in the DNA 75. In the Stout, I never got to that point with them as to get a battery low warning. I cycled through the three batteries, changing them once a day. Does the Stout have soft limiting, but doesn't tell you like the Droid? Either way, the Stout vapes 40% longer using the same builds between my two devices.

 

[MMcQ]

Questions first, A) Are you using the same batteries in the DNA75 as the Stout? *Making these batteries almost a year old now* B) Is this build the same build and wattage that you were using with the Stout? and finally C) Have you tried testing this exact same build and wattage in the Stout since making these observations with the DNA75?

 

[cobalt327]

First thing I would do is go into escribe and see what, if any, preheat is used. The supplied settings can vary between mod makers so not having one myself (I use a SMY SDNA 75) I can't say exactly what you might have for settings. In any event, preheat eats battery run time so if it's not needed you can change the settings.

 

[river.guy]

Questions first, A) Are you using the same batteries in the DNA75 as the Stout? *Making these batteries almost a year old now* B) Is this build the same build and wattage that you were using with the Stout? and finally C) Have you tried testing this exact same build and wattage in the Stout since making these observations with the DNA75?

To answer your questions:
A) Yes, the same batteries are being used. Knowing their age, they should not be performing as new. With this being considered, an approximate 40% loss in performance directly after switching mods seems odd.

B) Yes, the same builds and wattages are being used. I had also purchased a new tank to go with this mod. It is also being built to more or less the same spec as tanks before.

C) No - Since the Vapedroid arrived, all use has been on it. Parked the Stout in the cupboard as a backup device. The previously built tanks are still as they were though.

As @colbalt327 mentioned, a few of the presets had preheat selected. These were all for nickel though. Haven't used any profiles containing a preheat. As mentioned before, even in straight power mode the battery performance loss is remarkable. Does case analysis or whatever it is called make a tremendous difference?

 

[AtmizrOpin]

just to add and food for thought, the DNA 75/60 boards have an 85% efficient conversion rate (converting battery voltage to usable atomizer voltage). the DNA 200/250 are 97% efficient when it comes to conversion. battery life isn't going to be great, but decent on the 75 board, i've noticed this on all of my 75 boards.

 

[Clark Kent]

One question though, did you go into Escripe and set your battery Specs?

 

[river.guy]

just to add and food for thought, the DNA 75/60 boards have an 85% efficient conversion rate (converting battery voltage to usable atomizer voltage). the DNA 200/250 are 97% efficient when it comes to conversion. battery life isn't going to be great, but decent on the 75 board, i've noticed this on all of my 75 boards.

Didn't realize there was such a difference between mods, DNA based ones especially. Perhaps I should have went with a 200. Chose the 75 due to the compact, single cell format.

One question though, did you go into Escripe and set your battery Specs?

I have not had a chance to do much with Escribe except update firmware. Doesn't configuring the battery settings simply make the guage more accurate? Didn't know it had an effect on actual battery life. Will have to check that out tomorrow. Thanks for the tip.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

you're correct the battery settings will only make your battery meter more accurate, it won't improve the actual battery life. IMO, 26650's aren't the best for vaping (the DNA 75 is power hungry board at higher wattages), their internal resistance is higher than that of an 18650. not to mention, finding a 26650 that doesn't have exaggerated specs is almost impossible. so far there has been one exception, the Ijoy 4200mah 26650. that battery has an actual CDR of 30 amps, rated by Battery Mooch. if you absolutely must run 26650's, try the Ijoy one (if you can find authentics, i'm sure they've been cloned/re-wrapped by now because of their popularity, lol).

 

[river.guy]

It looks like I may have to change the build style if wanting to have all day longevity. Perhaps go back to Kanthal to raise resistance and lower the watts needed to produce the same heat (and losing temp control). The Stout's TC was flaky anyway, so giving it up on the Droid isn't a deal breaker. Either that, or pull the Stout out of retirement.

 

[OhTheAgony]

There's no real reason to use a DNA device if you don't use TC imo. You might want to consider titanium wire if you'd like to keep using TC, it has the highest resistance of the TC capable wires. Be careful not to dry-burn ti though, I recommend reading in to it a little before you use it.

I do prefer the 200 over the 75 personally, even though I rarely go above 40W myself.

 

[river.guy]

There's no real reason to use a DNA device if you don't use TC imo. You might want to consider titanium wire if you'd like to keep using TC, it has the highest resistance of the TC capable wires. Be careful not to dry-burn ti though, I recommend reading in to it a little before you use it.

I do prefer the 200 over the 75 personally, even though I rarely go above 40W myself.

I have used every sort of viable wire for vaping, with exception to tungsten. Stainless steel 316L has been my wire of choice for a while now, due to its versatility of TC or straight wattage. I have a roll of 24ga titanium and have done a few builds with it. Well aware of the dangers of oxides forming at high temps (dry burning, ect). Another big reason I stuck mainly to SS for TC.

Reflecting back on it, should have done better research on the DNA75 platform. I was relatively pleased with the Stout, except the flaky TC and the tendency to "remember" resistances of previous atomizers even with resistance lock off. Looks like I must decide whether or not to throw the Droid in the classys. I really dig the mod, just not the ultra craptastic battery life. Will throw a couple higher res Kanthal builds at it and see what happens.

Thanks to all who chimed in!

 

[KenD]

There's no real reason to use a DNA device if you don't use TC imo. You might want to consider titanium wire if you'd like to keep using TC, it has the highest resistance of the TC capable wires. Be careful not to dry-burn ti though, I recommend reading in to it a little before you use it.

I do prefer the 200 over the 75 personally, even though I rarely go above 40W myself.

Actually, ss316 has a higher resistance/mm than titanium, and ss317l even a slightly higher.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

 

[OhTheAgony]

Actually, ss316 has a higher resistance/mm than titanium, and ss317l even a slightly higher.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk

You're right of course, thanks for correcting me, I must have had some sort of brain-fart.