Sorry to be a noob with my nooby questions but 'battery life', I have had two 1100 CE4's running for three months. I try to charge only once they are totally run down, usually when I start to notice a lack response, I change over and dry burn an atomiser with the last dregs of power before putting on the mains. They seem now to have a shorter life and lack power after about an hour, but I'm not sure and have been blaming the juice or the atomiser. Do batteries normally only have a certain life span?
Battery life
- Thread starter nobuts
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Ah! Ok, I guess the only way to be certain is to buy another, I don't think I've charged as much as 200 times. Just not getting a good vape at the moment trying to work out where the fault is. I'm using a high VG content juice could be that...
Clearomizers typically dont do well with high vg juices. Its has to do with surface area and wicking.Bottom coils like the protank do better.
IMO youre going to get the best results from a carto tank, dripper or an rba with high VG.
you could also try thinning the juice with distilled water or a little high proof alcohol.
Hi you might also consider getting a bigger battery. My 1300 mah battery lasts into two days with really really heavy vaping. So before you get another unit consider a 1300 mah battery or higher. It might be helpful to you! I wish you the best and hope this helps
This could be related to a number of things.
1. Dying battery - These do wear out over time, but should take a while to stop accepting a charge. A multi-meter is your friend in this case. A fully charged battery ego depending on the manufacturer will be somewhere between 3.3 volts and 4.2 volts. If your battery is fresh off the charger and is only metering at 2.8 volts (example) there is most likely a problem with the battery and it'll need to be replaced.
2. Worn coil(s) - These coils, even with maintenance, don't last forever. Gunk builds up on them and in the wicks. I don't recommend dry burning many types of coils. Protank or similar bottom coil clearomizers do not have resistance- no resistance coil set ups. The resistance wire is what gets hot. When you dry burn you do run the risk of burning or scorching any rubber insulators that are there. That'll create a nasty burnt taste. This is not the case for every type of clearomizer out there but it is something to be aware of. Dry burning does not always make your coil like new again either. Especially in clearmizers. I have found that sometimes it actually makes things worse. When you dry burn it it can just cause the juice that is inside the portion of the wick that is in the coil to basically turn into a hardened mass effectively blocking off the juice flow to the center of the coil. Resulting in weak and/or dry hits.
PG/VG content - As mentioned earlier the PG/VG ratio could be the culprit. Thicker juices (heavy vg) do not wick as easily.
Dirty Contacts- If the various contact points are dirty it can cause you to have a poor connection and cause weak hits. Make sure both the male and female connections are clean. Check the threads on both (ground) and check the center pins (live). Give them a little cleaning.
Lastly, before you go buying another battery, go hang out at a vape shop for a little bit. Ask them if you can use one of their ego style batteries for a little trouble shooting. It can help you to narrow down the problem. Screw your atomizer onto their battery and see if it is performing the same, then screw their atomizer onto your battery and see. Always better to have your problem narrowed down before you start throwing money at it.
Or, just buy more gear. You wouldn't be the first or the last vaper to buy gear even though you might not need it
Hope your vaping gets better soon!
1. Dying battery - These do wear out over time, but should take a while to stop accepting a charge. A multi-meter is your friend in this case. A fully charged battery ego depending on the manufacturer will be somewhere between 3.3 volts and 4.2 volts. If your battery is fresh off the charger and is only metering at 2.8 volts (example) there is most likely a problem with the battery and it'll need to be replaced.
2. Worn coil(s) - These coils, even with maintenance, don't last forever. Gunk builds up on them and in the wicks. I don't recommend dry burning many types of coils. Protank or similar bottom coil clearomizers do not have resistance- no resistance coil set ups. The resistance wire is what gets hot. When you dry burn you do run the risk of burning or scorching any rubber insulators that are there. That'll create a nasty burnt taste. This is not the case for every type of clearomizer out there but it is something to be aware of. Dry burning does not always make your coil like new again either. Especially in clearmizers. I have found that sometimes it actually makes things worse. When you dry burn it it can just cause the juice that is inside the portion of the wick that is in the coil to basically turn into a hardened mass effectively blocking off the juice flow to the center of the coil. Resulting in weak and/or dry hits.
PG/VG content - As mentioned earlier the PG/VG ratio could be the culprit. Thicker juices (heavy vg) do not wick as easily.
Dirty Contacts- If the various contact points are dirty it can cause you to have a poor connection and cause weak hits. Make sure both the male and female connections are clean. Check the threads on both (ground) and check the center pins (live). Give them a little cleaning.
Lastly, before you go buying another battery, go hang out at a vape shop for a little bit. Ask them if you can use one of their ego style batteries for a little trouble shooting. It can help you to narrow down the problem. Screw your atomizer onto their battery and see if it is performing the same, then screw their atomizer onto your battery and see. Always better to have your problem narrowed down before you start throwing money at it.
Or, just buy more gear. You wouldn't be the first or the last vaper to buy gear even though you might not need it
Hope your vaping gets better soon!
Factory kanger coil heads for the protank are non resistance - resistance - non resistance wires.
They are arc welded and the welds can be hard to spot especially on a brand-new wire.
On a factory coil head you will not burn the rubber unless you do something like dry fire upside down for an extended period of time
Last edited:
When did kanger switch to this? I had a protank 2 a couple months back that I obliterated the insulator on after a rather short dry fire. Glad to hear they are doing that right now
If your using a lower resistance coil now, that will shorten your battery life.
Vg doesn't effect battery life, only wicking ability.
If you dry burn a kanger head long enough you can still scorch it because the nores is still metal and metal transfers heat.
Vg doesn't effect battery life, only wicking ability.
If you dry burn a kanger head long enough you can still scorch it because the nores is still metal and metal transfers heat.
What about the top silicon ring that sits right next to the coil and holds the tops of the wicks in place? It's only a couple of mm away from the coil and there is an opening in the metal right there for the wicks, so there is nothing between the coil and the silicon ring to insulate it.
whenever I dry burned a protank or similar head I removed the top portion including the silicone gasket.
I always thought it was better to NOT "charge only once they are totally run down"
3 months use is a maximum of 90 charges (?).... they should be quite good still.
3 months use is a maximum of 90 charges (?).... they should be quite good still.
that silicone grommet on top that seals the chimney to top of the coil head is not going to melt or burn just from dry firing, unless your doing something way outside of the normal operation conditions of the rig.
this is what i do to my protank / evod heads.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...586-kanger-evod-how-re-wick.html#post12575982
i find that replacing the wicks with a higher quality silica wick and making minor adjustments to the factory coils.
then drilling out the airflow holes can really help get the vapor production up without compromising the flavor of the e-liquid very much.
this is what i do to my protank / evod heads.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...586-kanger-evod-how-re-wick.html#post12575982
i find that replacing the wicks with a higher quality silica wick and making minor adjustments to the factory coils.
then drilling out the airflow holes can really help get the vapor production up without compromising the flavor of the e-liquid very much.
300 charge cycles is pretty much what is accepted for battery life. But running your batteries all the way down is going to lessen that number. It's better for longevity to do partial charges more often.
What battery are these? I take it they are eGo style 1100 mAh? Do you know the manufacturer?
Yeah, ego 1100, dont know the manufacturer, I run batteries right down because thats what I have always done with power tools etc its normally advised with stuff like that I think
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked