Battery problems :(

[Katya]

These are just some of the 4 pages of threads on problems with the mvp2

I really don't wish to argue--but I'll try to explain my position one more time for the sake of OP.

First of all, every device with a 510 connection has connectivity problems, including the ProVari, as more toppers are being introduced to the market--some of them just won't fit properly. Those problems can be easily solved by either raising the pin a hair or by using circuit board spacers from MadVape. This can't be done on the istick because the connection is soft, made cheaply out of some questionable quality alloy and the pin is soldered (sloppily) to a wire that connects it to the battery internals. If you raise the pin, you risk severing the wire--it has happened, check my link. The pin is not insulated as it should be by a proper o-ring--just by some "sloppy silicone goo" (not my words)--which does not do its job and causes shorts. This is unacceptable in a 20w mod. Pure and simple--there is no excuse for such poor workmanship.

Another reason why I would not recommend it to new vaper as a PRIMARY device is the off-the-charts voltage output. RMS is an industry standard nowadays. Sorry, iSmoka, but you can't sell a mod that shoots out 4.2v at the 3v setting. People who are unaware of this problem burn their cartomizer or get nasty dry hits from their clearos and can't comprehend why this is happening. This is inexcusable.

Can you show me one chart translating MVP2's (or eGo, or ProVari, or Zmax, or any other regulated mod's) volts to real life volts? I don't think so. Whatever complaints you may have about the MVP, when you select 3 volts, you get 3 volts. When you choose 6 watts, you get 6 watts. Always.

Quick question. I have no idea what I'm talking about when it comes to the "eLeaf" volts. From what I've gathered, it outputs at about a volt higher than the display shows. So, with a 1.6ohm (reads 1.7) BVC @ 3.9volts / 9watts, am I really at 4.9v? Should I adjust to a lower setting at that resistance?

Hope you do not get dizzy or abducted by those maths....

And that's really all I have to say on the subject.

Oh, I just read this:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-did-kent-c-go-part-2-a-592.html#post14552585

 

[OldLadyO]

Should we tell General Motors they can't make Hemi's because it's "not the industry standard" and beginners wont know how to drive them?
If you use common sense, you don't need a chart to tell you what voltage to vape at. You start low and go up to your particular taste.
As for istick being cheaply made- they're $35. I used to put that much money in my ashtray in three days.

 

[OldLadyO]

New to vaping, but I vape a lot!! I have an ego c twist which I think is a fake and a aspire cf vv. the ego does within a couple hours and I'm lucky to get 4-6 out of the aspire. Looking for something that will get me through the day and I can charge at night. Please any help lol!

If you want something that hits the same right to the end of the battery,
charges in 2 hrs and lasts for 1-2 days
fits good in your pocket
costs only $35.
Get an istick

 

[mndh1007]

Go with the I stick or the MVP2.0... only thing I don't like about the I stick is the flimsy fire button,but its nice other than that... Just got it hoping it will be as reliable as my MVP... The only thing I don't like about my MVPs the sise of it, but it's a reliable workhorse...

 

[Susaz]

The MVP2 is less powerful but tried and reliable--and accurate. And a more powerful version (MVP3) with Evolv DNA chipset is about to be released. May be worth a wait.

Eleaf iStick is widely inaccurate and temperamental--and it's still a gamble--it may last or may die within weeks. I'd wait for version 2.

My MVP lasted less than a year, and I paid top dollar for it. I prefer a less accurate device that has me vaping at lower costs... The only good thing about my MVP was the multiple connector cable.

 

[Xodus88]

im tempted to get one of these isticks, the size looks nice