Only talking about imr.. Got an ipv4 and I've had several regulated devices before so got plenty of 30-35 amp batteries, but was wondering is it alright to use 40 amp continuous batteries in a chipped device, like I've used 20a before but I could tell I was getting less power then 30a even with it set at same wattage. More just worried about frying a chip or something but from what I've read its more of a problem with low amp batteries then higher amp but thought I would come on and get some schooling before slapping them in new device. Also because most devices say to use 30a batteries only.. Thanks for input.
battery question
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There is no such thing as a +30A CDR battery. 30A CDR is the highest that today's batteries go.
Most +30A batteries are really 20A CDR. Below is a list of 30A batteries that I know of.
1. Orbtronic SX30 2100mah 30A
2. Sony VTC4 2100mah 30A (there are no authentic VTC5's out there)
3. Xtar 2100mah 30A (re-wrapped Sony VTC4)
Most +30A batteries are really 20A CDR. Below is a list of 30A batteries that I know of.
1. Orbtronic SX30 2100mah 30A
2. Sony VTC4 2100mah 30A (there are no authentic VTC5's out there)
3. Xtar 2100mah 30A (re-wrapped Sony VTC4)
So efest 20,25,30,35,40a batteries are really like 10,15,20,25,30a batteries, sorry don't really know much bout batteries besides what it says on labels like 35continous70pulse or w/e
The battery is only going to put out the amps the device is trying to draw. Put in your best battery and go.
Yes and no. Most batteries are sold based on their pulse rating. That has no place in the world of vaping. If your device's power button gets stuck, you are going to be continually discharging the battery. Many of these "35A" batteries are often rewrapped 20A cells, and they are just selling them based on the pulse rating. Don't take offense, but they are actually preying on people like you. Since you really don't know the difference, they expect you to just see the "35A" on the side and think they are batteries that can be discharged at 35 amps. In reality, they may be able to take 35 amps for some short amount of time. How long that time is could be anywhere from a fraction of a second all the way up to over a minute. There is no standard for pulse ratings, so you really have no way to know what they can sustain over the course of the time it takes you to vape.
Yes and no. Most batteries are sold based on their pulse rating. That has no place in the world of vaping. If your device's power button gets stuck, you are going to be continually discharging the battery. Many of these "35A" batteries are often rewrapped 20A cells, and they are just selling them based on the pulse rating. Don't take offense, but they are actually preying on people like you. Since you really don't know the difference, they expect you to just see the "35A" on the side and think they are batteries that can be discharged at 35 amps. In reality, they may be able to take 35 amps for some short amount of time. How long that time is could be anywhere from a fraction of a second all the way up to over a minute. There is no standard for pulse ratings, so you really have no way to know what they can sustain over the course of the time it takes you to vape.
Like said just didn't want to put something in devices that said it was 40a continuous if it was going to harm it, figured it didn't matter since ohm limiting on regulated devices, so couldn't really push a true 40a out of it without building .0stupid which device couldn't read anyways
Yea figure most I'm ever gonna push through a battery would really be like 25a cause I don't build stupid low, and usually use chipped devices was just curious bout using batteries claiming to be 40a in a chipped device that said to use 30a, just wanted to make sure it wasn't doing damage to use them.
There are a lot of inconsistent battery rating when it comes to batteries. Just use some common sense when it comes to the advertising of batteries.
Remember, advertisers are trying to sell something. When they advertise a 40 amp battery, they are telling you the max. What Susan said is true... there are no 18650 batteries out there that can SAFELY deliver more than 30 amps. Any higher specs are probably what they call burst mode, and there is no standard for that mode. It could be 1/2 a second, or it could be 5 seconds.
I person at believe that Sony is the only company that has done the research and testing to qualify as a 30 amp battery. They sell their cells as OEM cells, and several company retails them under their name.
Only buy batteries from a reputable company. Those companies live under their trustworthiness.
Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk
Remember, advertisers are trying to sell something. When they advertise a 40 amp battery, they are telling you the max. What Susan said is true... there are no 18650 batteries out there that can SAFELY deliver more than 30 amps. Any higher specs are probably what they call burst mode, and there is no standard for that mode. It could be 1/2 a second, or it could be 5 seconds.
I person at believe that Sony is the only company that has done the research and testing to qualify as a 30 amp battery. They sell their cells as OEM cells, and several company retails them under their name.
Only buy batteries from a reputable company. Those companies live under their trustworthiness.
Sent from my SM-G386T1 using Tapatalk
Ok, yea I have seen batteries that plainly say 40 or 50 pulse just didn't realize stuff that said like 40 continuous 100 pulse was really less then 30a
I see thx for schooling, like said just didn't want to risk destroying a mod so thought I would check
I am not up to speed on all the temperature control mods as I have not purchased one.
But I do know that the IPV4 is one of these mods. So if you are running this mod in TC mode you will be building very low resistance using NI200 (and possibly titanium wire).
Can it be run in non temperature control mode as well using A1 Kanthal? That is the question I am not qualified to answer.
But I do know that the IPV4 is one of these mods. So if you are running this mod in TC mode you will be building very low resistance using NI200 (and possibly titanium wire).
Can it be run in non temperature control mode as well using A1 Kanthal? That is the question I am not qualified to answer.
Kudos for checking. Many don't. I learnt almost everything about batteries and vaping right here on the forum - safety questions in particular are never redundant.
It's those that don't get asked that might bite ya!
Hope you really enjoy your IPV4
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