Expecting my first mech mod & rda set up via mail. I've watched a few videos on battery safety. Will be picking up some sony vtc4 or vtc5 batteries. I also have an ohm reader included in my package. I'm new ECF & want to learn the safest way to vape on. APV set up. Has anyone ever had a battery blow up on them & is there any reported deaths due to battery explosion using a mech mod??
Battery safety. How & when can a battery blow up?
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well, first off, your VTC5s might not be real. Know how to recognize the fakes. and second, Learn ohms law. and learn the amp limit, and build higher ohm. Dont sub ohm past like..0.5,,, and even that, I recommend staying away from sub ohm.... try to stick around 1 ohm
Do more homework.
Its not dangerous if you practice safe building techniques and use the proper equipment.
Its not dangerous if you practice safe building techniques and use the proper equipment.
How to Spot Fake Sony Batteries
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are a few reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
This is the best way I have found to tell a real battery from a fake.
Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are a few reputable battery suppliers in the US.
* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
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Awe! Thanks for using my post to teach someone! I was about to post that pic (since I have it saved to my phone) until I saw you beat me to it! Cheers!
Another thing to note about dealers with unknown repute:
While the picture may be of a legit vtc 4 or 5, they may not be what is shown.
Another thing to keep in mind is that vtc 4 and 5s are hard to find after rumors have started about sony ceasing individual consumer purchase. Leading to an uptick in counterfeits.
On top of what has already been said.... In general, it won't... Old protected ICR cells could basically explode into a fireball... Newer chemistry IMRs or Hybrids like your vtc4/5 won't.... HOWEVER... That doesn't mean they can't be dangerous... The safer chemistry batteries can still swell and vent... Most mods have vent holes in case this happens... The danger is that often they are on or near the bottom, while batteries are designed to vent from the top... That means they can potentially swell and "seal" up the tube when venting which COULD create a pipe bomb. Which is why it's extremely important to know the limits and specs of the battery and still leave yourself enough "wiggle room" to play it safe. If your sony is real, then it has a 30amp limit... As long as you build under that you should be fine, but most stay well below and don't push the limits... Personally I would stay under 20amps. Not only is it safer, but the batteries will last longer anyway... A 20amp build is .21 ohm... The truth is, I personally find anything below .4 or .5 to not be very good for anything but clouds anyway.... and .4 is only 14amps... Also keep in mind that unless you have a very accurate (and very expense) and recently calibrated meter, you're margin of error can be pretty high, which means if you shoot for a .5 ohm build as your lowest at least even with a margin of error you'll know you're still safe...
Keep researching... learn ohm's and joule's laws.... practice builds and ALWAYS check them on a meter before slapping them on a mech mod. Keep your mod in good condition, keep it clean and if ANYTHING doesn't seem quite right stop using it right away.
Someone else can chime in, but as far as I know, I BELIEVE that 35A Efest is really a 20A battery... Efest typically specs their pulse current ratings, not their continuous current ratings...
Thanks for all the info! The guy at the vape shop said the efest's are better than the vtc5 anyway because they are 35A. He also said sony stopped making the vtc5
The purple Efest is actually a re-wrapped LG (whose continuous discharge rate is 20A). Keep that 20A in mind and don't use the 35A that Efest published as this is a pulse rate which isn't industry standardized.
Edit: If you are going to use a mech mod be sure to pick up a digital multi meter (DMM) as well, if you don't already have one. You'll need it to check battery voltages.
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Never really found a 18350 that was over the top on continuous amperage. Also, always take things with a grain of salt that certain B&M employees say. Quite a few will be informed, however, some are just trying to make a buck or are mis-informed. Always double check what you are told, especially when the consequences can be very serious. Not wanting to turn you away from B&Ms, I frequent one very often myself, I just know that I hear a new story everyday of unscrupulous B&Ms pulling a fast one on beginners.
TL-DR: Always double check what anyone says with your face on the line.
TL-DR: Always double check what anyone says with your face on the line.
Thank u all for the help. Just built my first coil in my magma. Did a single coil wrapped 6 times with 26 gauge kanthal. It came out to 0.9 ohms (according to my itaste vv v3) I just want to know, how do I judge when it's time to switch out batteries? I'm waiting on a voltage meter so I just need to get by til it comes in the mail
Intuition...haha no I kid. Eventually you'll be able to tell. In a mech as the battery drains and gets low it stops hitting as hard. When you're first starting I recommend taking out the battery and checking it every time you drip. Don't go below 3.7 volts. Eventually you'll get the hang of it. If in doubt, be safe. Pull it out, set it aside.
Which charger are you using?
Which charger are you using?
On a 0.9 ohm build you should be able to go most of the day on a fresh battery. Maybe check it every couple of hours to see how fast it's going down. Try changing it somewhere around 3.5V?
I have a nitcore i2 charger. I let it charge all the way which I'm guessing is 4.2V. My thing is how do I know when it's low? I mean it hits hard even after hours of use. Will it stop firing once it's low?
Low voltage cutoff for an IMR cell is 2.5v or 2.6v depending on manufacturer, NEVER take your battery below this point. IMR cells will last longer if you don't abuse them. Constantly taking them down to the cutoff will shorten their lifespan. I don't ever take my cells below 3v and typically recharge around 3.5v.
As the voltage drops you will notice a drop in performance but when new it is sometimes tough to recognize a reduction in vapor. This is why a volt meter is important. Use a volt meter and learn to recognize the signs of a low battery.
eta: For measuring resistance a multimeter or dedicated ohm reader is best. Using a mod that requires you to fire the unit when reading resistance is not the best.
As the voltage drops you will notice a drop in performance but when new it is sometimes tough to recognize a reduction in vapor. This is why a volt meter is important. Use a volt meter and learn to recognize the signs of a low battery.
eta: For measuring resistance a multimeter or dedicated ohm reader is best. Using a mod that requires you to fire the unit when reading resistance is not the best.
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As I said, take out it everytime you drip and see how much it's dropped. I use the same charger for the exact same purposes with new builds. On a .9 it should last a long time. But say you're puffing away and you drip, and you drip, and you drip. Take out your fresh battery. You see it's at 4 v from 4.2v fresh. It's gone .2 in that amount of puffs. Use this estimate how much it will drop.
Repeat. Once you get it to 3.5-3.7v start charging her up!
Unfortunately this method kind of sucks. It's tough when you're on the go especially. I carry 4 batteries on me for this exact reason and have gotten pretty good at knowing when to change. If in doubt I change em out! When I get home I check all my batteries and see how close I was, and most of the time I've stopped around 3.6-3.8 v. Mind you, I also run a .25 ohm build, so my batteries run out significantly faster than yours will.
Best of luck!
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