Battery suppliers

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Janusxvii

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I recently got to thinking about a potential project and I'm researching the feasibility of it. What I would like to build is a rechargeable "cig-a-like" (preferably auto-switch) that puts out a regulated voltage around 3.7-4.2V (the higher the better). I'm not particularly concerned about the mAh rating or whether the battery is removable or soldered into the circuit. However I am having trouble finding a suitable battery. The most diverse supply of batteries that I am currently aware of is madvapes so I'm sure that's part of the problem. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

Janusxvii

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Thank you! This is a huge help. I have been doing even more research on what I'm looking for and so far the ICR10440 seems to be the best option. If this is true then what I am thinking of building is very comparable to the Joy eCab with the adapter to accept 510 atomizers. Not quite as slim as I was thinking and is manual switched but has removable batteries. On the flipside a Joye 510 is exactly the size I was thinking and and comes in an auto switched option. This now raises two new questions. First, would either of these devices produce a true 3.7V or are they like the eGo where it is really around 3.4V? Second, does a battery exist that is comparable in size to the 10440 but would allow 4V vaping? While looking into this I became aware of 10180 and 10280 battery sizes which could be stacked and regulated down to the desired voltage. The main concern to me there is that all I'm seeing for both sizes are unprotected batteries. This is going to take more looking into but the more I look at it the more interested I am in the possibility. I mostly use eGo twist batteries set around 4-4.5V and my main objective is to find or make something that is comparable in terms of voltage output but is very discreet for when I want to vape in public without drawing attention (and drug related questions) to the odd looking thing I'm puffing away on. Usually, I'm more than happy to spread the word and help clear up misconceptions about vaping but sometimes I just want to be left alone. If either of the above devices produce a true 3.7V then that would be passable (especially with a low resistance atomizer) though I would love to find or make something in my normal voltage range. I know this got a bit rambly, so thank you to anyone who read all of this.
 

Janusxvii

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Anyone know how risky it really is to use an unprotected battery? The more I think about it the more it seems that the greatest risk would be during charging and I would imagine a decent external charger would have protection built in there. Otherwise the only other risk seems to be the possibility of a short developing while in use. Am I right about this? If so, I'm thinking that my best option would be stacking two 10180's to get 7.4V and then running it through a voltage regulator (LM3102 for anyone interested) to bring it down to 4.5V. These batteries only have a capacity of 90mAh, but it might be worth it to have a "cigarette" form factor PV that can put out 4.5V with a 2.5A limit.
 

edking66

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Anyone know how risky it really is to use an unprotected battery? The more I think about it the more it seems that the greatest risk would be during charging and I would imagine a decent external charger would have protection built in there. Otherwise the only other risk seems to be the possibility of a short developing while in use. Am I right about this? If so, I'm thinking that my best option would be stacking two 10180's to get 7.4V and then running it through a voltage regulator (LM3102 for anyone interested) to bring it down to 4.5V. These batteries only have a capacity of 90mAh, but it might be worth it to have a "cigarette" form factor PV that can put out 4.5V with a 2.5A limit.

You could use a fusible link, basically a wire that will open up if too much current is drawn. They used these in the automotive industry in the early '70s.
 

Janusxvii

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Feb 5, 2012
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You could use a fusible link, basically a wire that will open up if too much current is drawn. They used these in the automotive industry in the early '70s.

Yes. A fuse is a worthwhile safety measure. I'll definitely plan on adding that. I'm also planning on testing everything on a prototyping board with with the 510 connector attached to some long wires so my face is nowhere near the circuit until I can verify everything is working as anticipated.
 
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