It happens on occasion but my mod tube gets REALLY hot when I fire it. The tube completely away from my atomizer is the part that gets hot. I have a nZonic v3. Does this happen to all mechanicals or is it something bad happening?
Battery tube gets hot?
- Thread starter euforeik
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We need much more information than you provided.
What atomizer and what ohm are you using?
What batteries are you using? Brand name and IMR or protected?
What atomizer and what ohm are you using?
What batteries are you using? Brand name and IMR or protected?
When this happens with any mechanical it's bad. This does not happen with my cheap mech mods. I would stop using the device until I solved the issue.
It sounds like it may be that the switch is dirty. As Oomee said, clean everything specially the switch parts. I use Q-tips wet with alcohol as a first pass and then have a look. I've never needed to do more, but you might find some discoloration that is oxidation on parts that may not come clean with an alcohol wipe. I would try gently wiping with SS mesh, or very fine emery cloth. You don't want to remove material, just clean the surface. A small amount of Noalox can only help too.
Also as Baditude said, any more info you can provide will help us to help you.
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I'll try to clean the contacts. But I have an nZonic v3 with copper contacts. I use an AW IMR 18650. Omega RDA with a 1.0 ohm dual coil set up.
Well, I did a little investigating with your previous posts and found out you were using sub-ohm coils without checking your coils because you didn't own a multimeter as of a couple of weeks ago, and had already burnt out an insulator.
I don't like to be critical but some of you novice sub-ohm guys are really pushing your luck by not having the proper equipment or learning what you need to know to do this safely. Li Ion batteries are nothing to take lightly and if they are pushed beyond their limits they react VERY angrily. Melted insulators and a REALLY hot tube are clear signs you are doing something terribly wrong.
Have you feel your battery to see if it got hot, too? Have you inspected it closely to make sure it looks perfectly normal? What is the condition of your hot spring? What color is it and does it look like when it was new?
I don't like to be critical but some of you novice sub-ohm guys are really pushing your luck by not having the proper equipment or learning what you need to know to do this safely. Li Ion batteries are nothing to take lightly and if they are pushed beyond their limits they react VERY angrily. Melted insulators and a REALLY hot tube are clear signs you are doing something terribly wrong.
Have you feel your battery to see if it got hot, too? Have you inspected it closely to make sure it looks perfectly normal? What is the condition of your hot spring? What color is it and does it look like when it was new?
- We really need to know what batteries you are using specifically to see if they can handle the ohm you are using.
- Did you ever get a multimeter and learn how to use it?
- What ohm are you using?
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Yeah I've been really careful after educating myself. I always check ohms. I'm at 1 ohm. I use real AW IMRs. My battery itself doesn't get hot it's only the mod itself.
Good, I'm glad to hear you say you've been educating yourself and practicing safer habits.euforeik said:
The AW IMR battery is an appropriate battery for your application. 1.o ohm is a safe resistance and your battery should be fully capable of handling that wattage. You're pulling approximately 4 amp from the AW IMR battery which has a 10 amp continuous discharge rate. You are well within the capabilities of the battery.
You should still inspect the hot spring just for completeness sake; make sure it has not collapsed and is the original color. As others have pointed out, clean all the battery contacts in the mod and on the batteries. Inspect your insulator and connector pin on top of your mod and insure it is clean. Closely inspect the coils on your RBA for hot spots by doing 5 second pulse burns.
A mod's body may get "warm" from the heat transferance of the RBA (which can get "very warm"), but it should not get "really hot". The fire switch should not get warm nor hot.
If you know someone who is very knowledgeable and experienced with RBAs I would have them do an inspection of your mod and RBA's coils. Just to be safer, I recommend using a Vape Safe Mod Fuse which should protect your mod and yourself should a situation occur that might hard short the battery.
Ohms Law Calculator
Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected?
Advice and Tips for New RBA Users
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Good to hear you're doing this right! IMO you've got high resistance at the contacts in the switch area that's making the heat there. I don't have an nZonic , so I don't know exactly where you need to look. I would also contact the guys that make this mod and see what they say about this.
It still has contacts that can get dirty or corrode. The magnets only replace the spring that is the alternative.
Here is a picture of my switch assembly and the second one is the contact for the negative side of the battery. I cleaned my contacts with alcohol a few moments ago.
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