Button on k100 getting hot, but no short

[SB2612]

So my k100 has been firing fine for the longest time, but about a half hour ago the button is getting rather hot while I vape. i've taken the battery out the few times it's happened, but it's as cool as it normally is. It's nowhere near as hot as the button, which is hotter than the rest of the mech too. Any ideas as to what's happened?

I'm using an IGO-W, built at .22 ohms with 26 gauge kanthal, k100 with a Sony VTC4. This just started happening today, and the only other time it happened was when I had a short. But even with a battery that hasn't gone through a short the button heats up. Like I said though, the batteries are fine, nowhere near as hot as when it shorted out. Maybe the tiniest bit warm, but it's not like scorching. So I'm just wondering about what's going on.

 

[TrentTC]

Sounds like you're fire button is shorting. Do you have a good connection between your battery and bottom pin? Arcing could cause your button to heat up. Any resistance in your button will cause it to heat up

 

[SB2612]

Sounds like you're fire button is shorting. Do you have a good connection between your battery and bottom pin? Arcing could cause your button to heat up. Any resistance in your button will cause it to heat up

How would I fix that? I've never heard about that before, so I'm not sure what to do.

 

[Funk Dracula]

Clean your contacts and threads. 90% rubbing alcohol.

 

[Ryedan]

It's not shorting, you have too much resistance between two of the switch contact surfaces. I've never had it happen to mine and have actually never heard of it happen to anyone yet. Look at the main contact inside the whits plastic insulator on the spring. If you can see discoloration that could be it. Take a Q-tip or some paper towel, wet it with alcohol and give it a wipe. Try it again and see if that fixed it.

If it did, you're good. If not you'll have to take the rest of the switch apart. I think there is a C-clip that holds the top plate on and you'll have to take that off. I think that's all that holds the assembly together.

Best of luck with it!

 

[SB2612]

I've wiped down both contacts (on the button and the battery tube) and it still happens, though less frequently. The discoloration on my firing pin doesn't come off, and I scrubbed for about fifteen minutes. Any tips?


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[Recycled Roadkill]

Is the firing pin threaded to the body of your mod? If so, the threading should be cleaned on both male and female threads.

The coloration on the overheated firing pin won't be easily removed, if at all.

 

[Funk Dracula]

I've wiped down both contacts (on the button and the battery tube) and it still happens, though less frequently. The discoloration on my firing pin doesn't come off, and I scrubbed for about fifteen minutes. Any tips?

Well...

I believe the K100's are chrome plated contacts. Time to sand that crap off, and expose the brass underneath.

If that still doesn't do it...

How's the tension on your button? There's a spring in the assembly that doesn't last too long. It could be causing the pin to not get pressed solidly/firmly enough on the battery when firing. Taking apart the K100 switch assembly is a bit of a pain because of this little washer part that snaps in/out. You'll have to resort to that in order to get at the spring and stretch it out so it's firmer again.

It's a mech, so it's definitely fixable.

Lastly, there's always a chance it's your igo-w. Is it's pin looking nice and centered and insulated? It's not unheard of for attys to short out because of whack pins too, just ask any A7 owner. I doubt it's that though, but just throwing that out there with the kitchen sink.