Be all End all Subtank Mini thread

[Cannon from NJ]

Hi forum, I guess you could say I've been a lurker. I've been vaping for about 5 months now on a little non variable ego type battery with a Protank2 mini, and now I'm ready to upgrade. I've been reading alot of threads and watching alot of review videos on different products. I think I've decided on getting an istick 50w for battery life and a Kanger Subtank mini, but I still have alot of questions. So, I've heard the istick fires hot and the subtank puts out hot vapor. Is this really a problem? Am I missing out on anything by not having a dual coil atty? Are the .5 coil heads the way to go over the 1.2's? What's up with the nickel coils? Is rebuilding with 26 gauge kanthol the way to go over premade heads? What's the deal with ribbon and braided wire? What lasts the longest? What constitutes how many times to wrap when making a coil? I like chocolate flavor. I know what VG and PG means but what are the benifits of the different percentages?

 

[KC33]

You'll be just fine with the Istick and Kanger Subtank. You get one of each coil in the box so you can try them both and see which one you like. There's nothing hot about either product, and the vapor is excellent. Single coils seem to work the best with tanks. All the sub type tanks are using single coils.

Nickel coils are for temperature regulated mods like the rDNA 40. No need to concern yourself with those yet.

 

[Armchair Alchemist]

So The Kanger Subtank? I own it. My only complaint is the airflow on it when switched to RBA mode. Duh, Kanger. Lower the ohms and reduce the air- flow? Really? Of course, I'm a dripper most of the time so I appreciate Kanger going sub-ohm and rebuildable on this tank. And I am also, therefore, a fan of the 0.5 ohm over the 1.2 ohm. The plus side, in light of this issue of airflow is a trade-off: not having to stop and drip while at work or driving (worse than texting). The tank is great if you don't have time to refill! Don't build on it lower than 0.3-0.4 ohms on the RBA. The vacuum in the tank doesn't suck the juice fast enough (or I'm a bad wicker) and it burns. I even tried building at 0.16 ohms. It burnt on the third hit! If you're used to sub-ohm vaping on an RDA with lower nicotine, you might want to raise your nic level by three or four milligrams for the Kanger. You just won't get the same cloud volume with the Subtank; therefore, less nicotine.

-VG more cloud, less taste, less throat hit
-PG less cloud, more taste, more throat hit.

Ribbon and braided wire? I doubt you'll get into it unless you're into building more than average. The only uses I see for these kinds of coils and wires are looks and increasing the surface area of the coils. Increased surface area on a coil generally means more cloud (not to be confused with more cowbell).

 

[fenez]

Im using the exact set up...istick50 and the subtank mini..works great. As far as the 1.2 or the .5... to be honest i'm using both and they both hit fine. I dont really feel it's too hot of a vape.

 

[morphlingftw]

I was in your shoes about a week ago and I got the iStick 50w and a Kanger Subtank Mini. Great setup so far, but I will say that it vapes hot at anything above 15w (I know the tank only goes to 30w, but I can't even get to 20w, WAY TOO HOT!). I have mine set on the sweet spot of 12w. Now I see that I went overboard with the iStick 50w, I could have easily gone with the 30w. Other than a hot vape at anything over 15w, it's great. I've tried both the .5 and 1.2 ohm coils and I haven't noticed a difference on how it vapes. It's a great setup with big clouds, lots of flavor and decent temperature as long as it's on a low wattage which is what the Kanger Subtank Mini is great at! I don't think it's the tank that vapes hot, but if your not used to that high of wattage, 20w will seem very hot (I ran almost your exact setup before making the jump). You can get it a lot of places but I got mine at VAPENW and I was pleased with everything. Just remember the iStick doesn't come with a USB cable so you have to buy that seperate.

So, in short, I would get an iStick 30w, with a Kanger Subtank Mini, and 10 .5 ohm coils, and a USB cable. Keep it around 15w or lower and you'll have a nice smooth vape with a ton of flavor. The Subtank adjustable airflow is awesome! I switch between the 1 and 2 hole options depending on if I want a mouth to lung, or straight lung hit. I also noticed that 6mg nic is way too much on this device as where it was perfect on my EVOD. I'm running a mix down to about 3mg and it's perfect, and I run 100% VG most of the time and it still vapes like a champ!

 

[Foggyroomz]

Heres a sub-tank mini vid I did for the forum earlier

 

[Armchair Alchemist]

After saying so much negative and the Subtank, I thought I should add that I really am happy with it. I just have a few gripes about it.

 

[StrahmNoMore]

I've got the same set up and everyone else has pretty much said the stuff I would. I was using a mini protank 3 and an Aerotank on an MVP 2 before I got this. I will say that for me, the .5 coil does give a warm Vape but I don't mind personally. The thing produces a lot of vapor and flavor. What one person advised tho with the iStick 30 May not be a bad idea as I am with foggy rooms up there, I have found both coils taste burned if I try to take them over 25 watts and you could use the extra cash for materials

 

[Foggyroomz]

A fellow fort wayneian what's up StrahmNoMore I'm just south of the fort but work there.

 

[zero7starz]

I got the sub tank mini and istick 50w for my bf for Valentine's Day. He really likes it. Coming from a Kayfun that, as far as I can tell, had juice channel issues, he was overly delighted with the Vape upgrade of the sub tank.
I know he's been really into the prebuilt .5ohm coil head. It's his first experience going lower than 1.1 ohms lol. Next step will be trying out the RBA section. I have no idea what kind of wire they sent in the box with it, but I'm still trying to find the best gauge for it.
Had 28g, went to get 26g and they were out so I got a sample of 25g and its a tad thick for me. Gonna have to find some 26g somewhere for testing.

 

[Cannon from NJ]

When building a coil, does the space between each wrap matter or should they be compressed as much as possible? Does using different size screw drivers to wrap around have an effect?

 

[E30M42]

Istick 20w with the 1.2ohm coil is a perfect setup to go to the bar with

 

[KC33]

So The Kanger Subtank? I own it. My only complaint is the airflow on it when switched to RBA mode. Duh, Kanger. Lower the ohms and reduce the air- flow? Really? Of course, I'm a dripper most of the time so I appreciate Kanger going sub-ohm and rebuildable on this tank. And I am also, therefore, a fan of the 0.5 ohm over the 1.2 ohm. The plus side, in light of this issue of airflow is a trade-off: not having to stop and drip while at work or driving (worse than texting). The tank is great if you don't have time to refill! Don't build on it lower than 0.3-0.4 ohms on the RBA. The vacuum in the tank doesn't suck the juice fast enough (or I'm a bad wicker) and it burns. I even tried building at 0.16 ohms. It burnt on the third hit! If you're used to sub-ohm vaping on an RDA with lower nicotine, you might want to raise your nic level by three or four milligrams for the Kanger. You just won't get the same cloud volume with the Subtank; therefore, less nicotine.

-VG more cloud, less taste, less throat hit
-PG less cloud, more taste, more throat hit.

Ribbon and braided wire? I doubt you'll get into it unless you're into building more than average. The only uses I see for these kinds of coils and wires are looks and increasing the surface area of the coils. Increased surface area on a coil generally means more cloud (not to be confused with more cowbell).

Are you talking about the Mini or the original? The original has terrible airflow when using the RBA but the Mini has excellent airflow in RBA mode.

 

[Armchair Alchemist]

Are you talking about the Mini or the original? The original has terrible airflow when using the RBA but the Mini has excellent airflow in RBA mode.

I know it's not the Mini. It comes with a beauty ring.

 

[Tralfazz]

Istick 20w with the 1.2ohm coil is a perfect setup to go to the bar with

I like the same setup with the 30 watt.

 

[RichJr]

I'm using a quad coil subtank at the moment and its absolutely lovely. It's not rebuildable though. Coils come in .8 .6 .4 and .2

If coiling isn't all that necessary you may want to look into this.

Horizon Scion sub tank. Totally Wicked has them in stock. 30 watts and no burn at all.

I only mention this tank as I heard someone say sub tanks only come in single coils.

On and the Horizon Artic tank is a subtank and it has dual turbine coils as an option.

 

[RichJr]

When building a coil, does the space between each wrap matter or should they be compressed as much as possible? Does using different size screw drivers to wrap around have an effect?

All you mentioned is preference and it only matters to you once you know the different vapes the different setups give. Also different size diameters help to fit different decks.

 

[StrahmNoMore]

Hey buddy cool! Enjoyed the video!!

 

[Tone]

I'm using the istick 30w and Kanger subtank mini..perfect set-up, I'm a heavy vaper and and it last me all day. I find it a bit harsh first thing in the morning so I close off some air flow and turn it down a bit until I can take it...lol

 

[tieminnow]

I currently have the istick 50w with the subtank and it's amazing. I was also worried about the warm vape but with the amazing flavor you don't pay much attention to the warmth. I strongly recommend getting the 50w, it's always better to have too much than not enough. I was about to get the 30 watt but for the price of the 50 you can't go wrong. If you decide to try building at .2 ohms you'll be happy you got a 50w. I'll admit though even at .27 ohms I rarely go over 35 watts. However at work I kick it up to 50 just so I can take a quick .5 second puff and get back to business.