Beginner coil build Problems

[Chapman330]

Hey guys i could use some help, ive built a couple coils over the last couple days. But none of them seemed to be working properly. first off, im using an MVP 3.0 with a mutation V3 dripper. I have 28 guage wire and its a 5/4 wrap i think. dual coil.
One of the coils run extremely smooth, no problems. the other gets red hot right off the positive post. It will read .4 ohms on the mvp then change to like 1.7 then to .5 then 2.7, basically it jumps around and i dont know how to fix it. a nail to wrap the coils which is probably about the size of the screw driver that came with the rda.

 

[Madadoor]

Are you sure your coils are exactly the same? if you are new to building coils I would stick to single coil until you become more confident

 

[Lessifer]

one coil does look bigger than the other, but it's hard to tell in the pic. Also, check your connections and make sure all four coil legs are secured.

 

[Chapman330]

i just took a really close look and no they were not. thanks for pointing that out i didnt even notice.

 

[Chapman330]

but i know for a fact the others i built were the same size and they did almost the same thing. could it be, just that im putting it right at the mvps lowest possible.

 

[cjs71988]

check your connections. the legs heating fast and the ohms jumping that severley are telltale signs that you have loose or broken from overtightening connections at the posts.

 

[Susan~S]

It looks like there a gap between the wraps of the right coil.

Did you pinch the coils together and fire them before you wicked them?
Did they both heat evenly (from the inside out) when you fired them?
Any hot legs that didn't get fixed before you wicked?

 

[b14ckd34th]

came here to say make sure you tighten your posts..those coils dont look the same also.

 

[SJFlowerHorn]

I am also very new, building coils for only two weeks now however every coil I have built had worked perfectly except one. Needless to say it was due to over tightening the negative post, the ohms jumped back and forth, the temperature spiked quick, and one of the legs would glow red and even burn the cotton saturated. So the advice that has been given sounds appropriate, tighten your posts down but not too tight, I recommend firing the device several times and letting it get ad hot as possible and blowing on the coils. This causes the metal to expand and contract rapidly which will quickly show you if your leads will be coming loose or not, I bought a no name, junk, grab bag type Atty for my first RDA. Needless to say I had to use that method every time I rebuilt my coil/s. Hopefully it works out for you and isn't a defect. I personally love my Mutation X v3 running on any of my power supplies(CF Sub 2,200mAh, istick 50w4,400mAh, and last but not least my favorite the infamous IPV3{with the 165watt update}5,000mAh . She's my favorite as of now, more flavor and vapor then any of my other rigs wether its an RDA, RBA, RTA, or sub ohm tank being compared, the MX3 pops a squat on my entire arsenal.

 

[Chapman330]

i did fire and pinch but it messed up when i put the wick through, all of them have, and again both heated even and from the inside before wick, and whats hot leg?

 

[Chapman330]

thanks everyone for all your input. i just scrapped it and made a single coil that runs smooth. ill take all into consideration when attempting another dual.

 

[SJFlowerHorn]

i did fire and pinch but it messed up when i put the wick through, all of them have, and again both heated even and from the inside before wick, and whats hot leg?

Another thing I didvwas switch to a lower gauge kanthal, its physically harder to wrap yes....but much harder to unwrap especially when were talking about by cotton. I am using a 24 guahe A1 Kanthal and I have more issues with wicks getting burned because I forget to drip since I'm used to using mostly aspire Atlantis sub tanks & kanger sub tanks up until now.

 

[SJFlowerHorn]

Hot leg is when the lead coming from the terminal glows red. Which usually means the heat is not traveling from the center out, the center of the coil heating up is what draws the fluid up the wick and towards the coil.


Edit: I haven't run my MX3 in single coil mode yet, just remember to close off the one side of the adjustable air flow blades.

 

[juggler86]

Sjflowerhorn your IPV isnt 5000mah unless your using some knock off battery that claims 5000mah. With 2 batts its still only 2500mah.

When i first started building I was really bad , especially with duals. I would always loose count and trying counting unsuccesfuly and get flare up. Sucking fire in isnt fun and was almost enough to make me give up.

 

[Chapman330]

well im on the border of giving up because now my single is doing the same thing. and i know what hot leg is i was more asking how to fix it.

 

[SJFlowerHorn]

I've been bamboozled!

The gentleman who sold me the mod at my local B&M told me that the two 2,500 mAh batteries would bring the device to 5,000 mAh's.

But good to know, that makes a lot more sense as to why my istick lasts an entire day at 50w (.09 dual coil build) when the ipv only makes it about 8-10 hours at the same wattage(.20 dual coil build). I'm kinda wishing I just bought another istick now, I enjoy gaping at lower ohms personally, but between .08 and .2 really isn't the biggest of differences to me to be honest and I could totally live without it. But it at least lasts twice ad long as my 2,200 mAh cf sub (.18 dual coil build). Albeit shes got a short battery life, but the thing sure does hit like a champ though.

 

[SJFlowerHorn]

Gotcha, honestly its mostly due to loose terminals, but I've noticed it can also be from coils spreading unevenly. But that might be a question best answered by someone with more experience if those two options aren't working.

 

[Chapman330]

my terminals are tight and this single is in there perfect no gaps no wire going way out to the opposite terminal. it heats in the middle and on the outside and gets extremely red after a baby hit( being 2 seconds.)

 

[SJFlowerHorn]

Its glowing red while your hitting it as in with the wick in and saturated as well and its still glowing red? I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen if that's the case, maybe your wick is too tight or too loose. Too tight being not enough juice can make it to the coil(assuming), and too loose giving it enough room to heat up without the liquid to cool it down, also another assumption but something to check into. My first couple coil builds worked fine, however it took me a few attempts to get the wicking down proper.

 

[Susan~S]

I've been bamboozled!

The gentleman who sold me the mod at my local B&M told me that the two 2,500 mAh batteries would bring the device to 5,000 mAh's.

That would be true if your batteries were wired in parallel. However yours are wired in series.

I enjoy gaping at lower ohms personally, but between .08 and .2 really isn't the biggest of differences to me to be honest and I could totally live without it. But it at least lasts twice ad long as my 2,200 mAh cf sub (.18 dual coil build). Albeit shes got a short battery life, but the thing sure does hit like a champ though.

You've also been bamboozled into thinking you have to vape low sub-ohm to get more heat/vapor.

The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. That increases vapor production.

With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.

Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...

Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the Steam Engine: Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features