Beginner on Rebuildables. Help?

[Baditude]

Hey so I found a a website where they sell the type of battery that I have ...


18650 2200mah Battery | Vape Zombies

I got me from my friend.

Still not identified by brand. You really know nothing more about this battery. It could even be an unprotected ICR as the product description does not say (unprotected ICR batteries should never be used in a mod). Regardless, all ICR batteries only have a 3 - 6 amp limit. DO NOT use this battery with sub-ohm coils.

This is a very dangerous battery to use with sub-ohm.

 

[KEVOLO]

If you absolutely want to use it... Use it in your tesla only.... I have discarted my ICR batteries a long time ago.

So it's a no no on sub ohming, Ok. But is it ok if I use it if I was to build an atomizer at 1.5ohms?

 

[Steam Turbine]

As Baditude said.... It is not specified if this battery is protected or not. Since we don't know it is safer to assume that it is not.

This battery should not be used in an unprotected device like a mechanical mod. It is barely suitable for your tesla.

You should consider buying an IMR battery ASAP.

AW or Efest, are some examples of reputable battery brands... But again, not ICR... you want IMR.

 

[Baditude]

So it's a no no on sub ohming, Ok. But is it ok if I use it if I was to build an atomizer at 1.5ohms?

You're just not getting it.

You haven't identified the battery yet, so you can't attempt to find the battery specifications. Therefore you don't know the battery's amp rating.

Not recommended for a Tesla, as regulated mods use high drain batteries (IMR).

All you know is it is an ICR battery from the lettering on the battery. You don't know if it is protected or not. For all you know, this is a Chinese re-wrapped battery reject.

I would not use this battery at all. It has to be considered unsuitable for vaping.

 

[Steam Turbine]

another thing.... Learn about Micro coils.... You can build a 1.2 ohm coil that hits like a 0.6 by building a microcoil.

 

[Steam Turbine]

You haven't identified the battery yet, so you can't attempt to find the battery specifications. Therefore you don't know the battery's amp rating. You shouldn't use this battery for vaping, period.

Absolutely agree.

 

[KEVOLO]

I'm looking online at some MNKE IMR 18650 batt... But it says that it is not protected.. Is that bad??

 

[Ryedan]

So it's a no no on sub ohming, Ok. But is it ok if I use it if I was to build an atomizer at 1.5ohms?

It is an unknown battery. So, there is no data on the battery. No information about the chemistry, the safety considerations or its performance levels. Use it in any vape gear at your own risk. If it's an ICR battery with no protection circuit, it could explode while you are taking a drag. You can have a short at any time while vaping if something goes wrong with your equipment.

I would not take that risk. I don't like pain. I buy batteries that I know from vendors I trust. That allows me to vape with the knowledge that the battery is extremely unlikely to hurt me.

 

[Steam Turbine]

I'm looking online at some MNKE IMR 18650 batt... But it says that it is not protected.. Is that bad??

That is ok...

IMR stands for Lithium Manganese. It is a battery chemistry. This particular type of chemistry is a lot safer than ICR (Lithium cobalt).

IMR do not... or very very rarely explode... ICR on the other hand...

It is perfectly fine to use an unprotected IMR batt... MNKE are a reputable brand as well.

 

[KEVOLO]

That is ok...

IMR stands for Lithium Manganese. It is a battery chemistry. This particular type of chemistry is a lot safer than ICR (Lithium cobalt).

IMR do not... or very very rarely explode... ICR on the other hand...

It is perfectly fine to use an unprotected IMR batt... MNKE are a reputable brand as well.

Great!!

So with the MNKE I don't have to worry about sub ohming, or like you said, my resistance dropping, or micro coils, or any of that stuff?

Or should I keep in mind the amp discharge or w.e. It's called lolol

 

[Baditude]

I'm looking online at some MNKE IMR 18650 batt... But it says that it is not protected.. Is that bad??

This is an IMR battery. IMR batteries are "safe chemistry", and do not require protection built into their cell. They are also "high drain" batteries with higher amp ratings. IMR batteries are good.

ICR batteries use a volatile (flamable) chemistry and are required to have a protective circuit in them to even be sold. Should the protective circuit fail, the battery can vent with flames and possibly explode in a tube mod.

You first told us your batteries were IMR. Then it turns out they are ICR. You are revealing that you are way too new and uneducated to be doing sub ohm coils.

You either didn't read my Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected or didn't retain any of the information that was in it. I provided the link for you earlier to be able to learn something about batteries.

We're all glad that you are asking questions here, but there comes a point when you need to do some self-education and reading on your own. It's to your own benefit.

 

[Ryedan]

Great!!

So with the MNKE I don't have to worry about sub ohming, or like you said, my resistance dropping, or micro coils, or any of that stuff?

Or should I keep in mind the amp discharge or w.e. It's called lolol

KEVOLO, you always have to keep in mind the amp limit of your battery and the effect of shorts. Read the information in Baditude's links and you'll understand. It's not as simple as thinking 'do this one thing' and all is well. There are too many variables for it to be that easy, kind of like life in general.

 

[KEVOLO]

This is an IMR battery. IMR batteries are "safe chemistry", and do not require protection built into their cell. They are also "high drain" batteries with higher amp ratings.

ICR batteries use a volatile (flamable) chemistry and are required to have a protective circuit in them to even be sold. Should the protective circuit fail, the battery can vent with flames and possibly explode in a tube mod.

You either didn't read my Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected or didn't retain any of the information that was in it. I provided the link for you earlier to be able to learn something about batteries.

I lacked to read your link... So many links I didn't notice which ones I have and have not read.. Sorry..

But thanks again for posting it... I'll read it for sure before posting another comment.

And i apologize for my stubbornness and not understanding about no brand batteries.. )

 

[jcalis1394]

Unless you have quite the background experience around rebuildables (which is the collective knowledge regarding ohm's law, battery safety, anti-short measures, what to do in case of disasters, airflow, etc) you should never go to extreme sub ohms such as .3 ohms. While it might not seem so dangerous just by reading our warnings, the wrong battery and that super low ohms is a recipe for a blown mod and body damage.

Most of the info has already been covered. I've gone down until 0.2 ohms on an RDA. Granted it was an experiment and I cannot vape that, but I got to that point after building hundreds upon hundreds of coils in different setups and reading a lot and listening to more experienced vapers. My tips are, start off at a 1-1.5 ohm range until you really get it down and understand everything about it. Have a multimeter at all times and be sure to check for any sign of shorts before firing your freshly made coil. Your battery is extremely important. Whenever we are talking about the hardest hitting, less voltage drop, safe batteries there's two that come to my mind. The Sony 30 Amps and the AW IMR, both in 18650. For really low sub ohms I have come to only trust the Sony 30 Amps, with the AW IMR coming in second.

But as it has been said previously, start from that 1-1.5 ohm range. You'll eventually find your sweet spot and it might not even be sub ohms. I'd highly recommend learning about micro coils for a higher quality vape. And for the love of God and your face, do not ever fire that range of sub ohms on the current batteries you own ever again.

 

[KEVOLO]

This is an IMR battery. IMR batteries are "safe chemistry", and do not require protection built into their cell. They are also "high drain" batteries with higher amp ratings. IMR batteries are good.

ICR batteries use a volatile (flamable) chemistry and are required to have a protective circuit in them to even be sold. Should the protective circuit fail, the battery can vent with flames and possibly explode in a tube mod.

You first told us your batteries were IMR. Then it turns out they are ICR. You are revealing that you are way too new and uneducated to be doing sub ohm coils.

You either didn't read my Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected or didn't retain any of the information that was in it. I provided the link for you earlier to be able to learn something about batteries.

We're all glad that you are asking questions here, but there comes a point when you need to do some self-education and reading on your own. It's to your own benefit.

Ok so on the link you gave me it says, Coils < 0.8 ohm require an IMR battery that has a maximum continuous discharge rate over 10 amps​...

Which is THE best (top notch) battery to buy for a mech mod?

 

[KEVOLO]

Nevermind scratch that last post lol

 

[KEVOLO]

Unless you have quite the background experience around rebuildables (which is the collective knowledge regarding ohm's law, battery safety, anti-short measures, what to do in case of disasters, airflow, etc) you should never go to extreme sub ohms such as .3 ohms. While it might not seem so dangerous just by reading our warnings, the wrong battery and that super low ohms is a recipe for a blown mod and body damage.

Most of the info has already been covered. I've gone down until 0.2 ohms on an RDA. Granted it was an experiment and I cannot vape that, but I got to that point after building hundreds upon hundreds of coils in different setups and reading a lot and listening to more experienced vapers. My tips are, start off at a 1-1.5 ohm range until you really get it down and understand everything about it. Have a multimeter at all times and be sure to check for any sign of shorts before firing your freshly made coil. Your battery is extremely important. Whenever we are talking about the hardest hitting, less voltage drop, safe batteries there's two that come to my mind. The Sony 30 Amps and the AW IMR, both in 18650. For really low sub ohms I have come to only trust the Sony 30 Amps, with the AW IMR coming in second.

But as it has been said previously, start from that 1-1.5 ohm range. You'll eventually find your sweet spot and it might not even be sub ohms. I'd highly recommend learning about micro coils for a higher quality vape. And for the love of God and your face, do not ever fire that range of sub ohms on the current batteries you own ever again.

Right on ! I'll just buy the needed batts tomorrow ...

 

[KEVOLO]

Thanks for everyone who posted on here.. And gave me a clearer vision in Mechanical Mods and everything there is to know about them...

 

[DrillRX]

The '100 mAh roughly equals an hour' rule of thumb is for vape time, not constant run time. It does assume standard power use of about 8 watts, so the further away from that you go the more inaccurate it becomes.

You are correct about using "vape time". Let's break out the math so the uninitiated are more well informed.

So with that in mind

A 1000 mah battery running at 8 watts,(roughly 2amps), and let's assume three, 5 sec "toots" on the old vaporizer every 5 minutes (on the conservative side). That should result in a little over 17 hrs (17.3hrs) of "vape time" on the battery in question.

That, I believe is important so as not to short charge batteries that surely decreases battery life.

 

[Steam Turbine]

There is no top notch battery... But there are some top bad ones.... Like the one you were using.

1-Stay away from ICR in general and unprotected ICR in particular
2-Stay away from unbranded batteries
3-Stay away from any batteries that have the word FIRE in their name.
4-Discard any battery that have a tear in their plastic wrap cover.
5-Discard any battery that are deformed. Cause by dropping it or for some other inexplicable reasons.


One other thing... If a battery gets over or under 4.2 volts when fully charge, that might mean that you have a problem with either your battery or your charger.

Speaking of chargers..... Use only what is know as "intelligent chargers". The Xtar WP2 charger or the Nitecore I4 intelligent charger are some examples of reputable chargers.

The charger that probably came with your crappy battery is probably not an intelligent charger. That might lead to some catastrophic failures like setting fire to your house or apartment.