Best 5 Volt Mod

[Nuck]

Are you accusing Drew of stopping the video, disconnecting the atomizer, and then seamlessly editing the video so that you can't see any change to the fact that the atomizer is still connected?? I've got several years experience in video production, and I don't see a jump cut. Do you? How did he manage to disconnect the load without there being some sort of visual movement? (You realize, don't you, that the voltmeter would not read 5.4V a few seconds earlier unless there was a load because the resistor only works when placed under load--which is WHY I couldn't simply test the voltage without wiring something between the Xhaler and the atomizer.

I could duplicate that video in 10 minutes but it would be meaningless since it wouldn't in anyway prove that Drew did that.

I can't believe that nobody has posted an independent video of a test that shows it working. There are hundreds of people on here that have the ability.

 

[GotiT]

Let's try Occam's Razor here: Do you think it is more likely that the video was pulled because Drew released a poorly faked video or because he released a poorly produced video that was a little jumpy and confusing at the beginning but had clear results toward the end. Watch the video here and now and tell me how it is faked. Where is the cut between 0:24 and 0:31 where it shows 5V and 6V meter readings?

I'm sorry, but if Drew was good enough with Video production to fake this video, there is no way he would have released something as jumpy and obviously rushed as the earlier version. If faked, that is some seriously impressive work and Drew is in the wrong business...and I'd stake my professional credibility in video production on that.

EDIT: IBTL. If you don't want the Xhaler, don't buy it. Otherwise, stop spreading FUD!!

I don't think we are talking about the same video. Do a youtube search on it.

 

[Thulium]

Go re-watch his video. Notice how when he's got the cap loose and button depressed, the reading goes straight to 6.64 and kinda sits there, without fluctuating? That would be the characteristic of measuring a pair of batteries, not an atomizer in use. Doesn't that strike you as the least bit odd? If that's supposed to be the definitive evidence of its dual-voltage capability, it's seriously lacking.

Actually, that's the characterstic of using an atomizer on the Xhaler without the resistor cap affecting the current and basically operating exactly the same way your Chuck works (give or take the difference in resistance from the manufacturing technique). How much variance in voltage do you get on your Chuck when under load? What's the initial operating voltage?

 

[Thulium]

I don't think we are talking about the same video. Do a youtube search on it.

I am talking about this video: YouTube - XHALER Endcap Demo

Tell me where to see the fake between 0:24 where it shows the Xhaler running at 5.4V and 0:31 where it shows the Xhaler running at 6.64. And tell me what, other than the cap being loosened as you can see clearly in the intervening 6 seconds, has changed the reading by 1.24 volts?

 

[Scottbee]

Thulium,

I don't think that Drew faked anything. My point (and sorry if I didn't make it clear) is that you don't understand how the cap works, and your EE "friend" is completely full of crap. So full of crap that they should pull his degree.

That was my point.

Are we clear now?

 

[Thulium]

Thulium,

I don't think that Drew faked anything. My point (and sorry if I didn't make it clear) is that you don't understand how the cap works, and your EE "friend" is completely full of crap. So full of crap that they should pull his degree.

That was my point.

Are we clear now?

Clear as mud.

In consideration: .
-My friend Kirk is a member of IEEE, has a Master's Degree in Electrical Engineering from Portland State University and has been working for Tektronics for at least 5 years if I recall correctly. (I've known him since 7th grade, but we've fallen out of touch a bit since marriage and kids, etc. and this was just a small part of a 3 hour conversation on a number of topics.)
-Kirk predicted (sight unseen) how the cap could work as advertised based on an incomplete description. (He interrupted my description with an explanation of how it would work.)
-Within an hour of having it explained to me by an electrical engineer who has never seen an Xhaler or any other mod, I heard basically the same explanation from the designer.
-I can taste a very clear difference. I actively dislike the nasty metallic flavor I get from the Xhaler with a 510 atty running at 6Vs, and the flavor goes away by changing the Xhaler to 5V.

Therefore, since the reason for purchasing a 5V mod is to take off the harshness of 6V vaping, AND there is a completely valid scientific explanation available, AND there is in evidence video documentation of the advertised voltage when operated under load, AND I have subjective proof from the testimonials of dozens of other Xhaler owners that there is a noticeable change, AND I have personal experience tasting the difference for myself...I am completely comfortable with my conclusion.

You, on the other hand, now admit that you do not believe the video to be faked...yet you still do not accept the fact that it shows the Xhaler operating at 5V as well as 6V. How much more evidence would a rational person require??

...and I'm still wondering what the operating voltage is on your mod when under the load of a 510 atomizer? Could you post a video to prove that your Chuck really gives 6V as advertised?

 

[MHR7331]

...and I'm still wondering what the operating voltage is on your mod when under the load of a 510 atomizer? Could you post a video to prove that your Chuck really gives 6V as advertised?

PM Jeff or some highly-motivated Chuck owner to give you a demo; I'm sure someone would be happy to oblige. I see no reason to do so

 

[Scottbee]

Thulium,

Clearly you are not reading or comprehending very well.

First off, don't play the credentials game with me. You have no idea what my credentials are, and you personally appear to have none. So I can't debate this with you, and you are trying to represent a "phantom" engineer.

You loosely quoted him as saying the following:

"As I understand it from the explanation given to me by a friend who is an Electrical Engineer at Tektronics, a partially conductive material will draw some energy out of the creating a bit of heat away from the atomizer changing the "shape" of the current, meaning that the voltage drop you get when you apply load is greater than when the cap is not applied."

And that is rubbish (and I have the credentials to say so). Complete and total garbage.

I believe that the XHaler can do 5V. I've seen the video and I believe it. Your 2nd party explanation of HOW it does it is crap.

Are we clear NOW?

P.S. I don't own a Chuck. Never said I did.

 

[Thulium]

I believe that the XHaler can do 5V. I've seen the video and I believe it. Your 2nd party explanation of HOW it does it is crap.

Fair enough. I am NOT an engineer nor the designer. I'm sorry that my secondhand retelling is insufficient (that's why I'm a technician, not an engineer), but the simple fact that when I described the way the Xhaler is built to an Electrical Engineer he basically said that it would work if the cap was made from a semi-conductive material, which I believe delrin becomes when placed under a current. (Look here: ScienceDirect - Polymer : The low frequency dielectric relaxation of polyoxymethylene (Delrin) using a direct current technique)

Do you not agree that it is possible for the cap to work basically as a voltage "leak" that only operates when placed under load--like a pipe with a hole that only opens when enough pressure is applied? Screwing and unscrewing the cap operates as a physical "switch" for this effect, and that is exactly what is demonstrated in the video.

 

[doots]

Hey Thul

If you can tell the difference when you lossen the cap that it changes from burnt to not burnt would tell me that it is lowering voltage, however it is achieved.

So many HV users that own the Xhaler have concurred that they can feel a difference also when loosening the cap or vise versa.

If you like it then that's all that matters.

Have you tried HV attys on it yet?
If so what are your findings?

thanks.

 

[Thulium]

Hey Thul

If you can tell the difference when you lossen the cap that it changes from burnt to not burnt would tell me that it is lowering voltage, however it is achieved.

So many HV users that own the Xhaler have concurred that they can feel a difference also when loosening the cap or vise versa.

If you like it then that's all that matters.

That's really all I was trying to say but that wasn't enough to satisfy some people that thought they know something about something they have never tried. Thank you.

Have you tried HV attys on it yet?
If so what are your findings?

thanks.

I haven't tried the HV attys yet, but I will order some 3.7V batteries for 7.4V along with some HV attys as it seems like that makes the most sense. From what I've read, the HV attys cut about 2 volts, which would mean 3V or 4V with my current batteries, and most people who've tried it seem to prefer the regular attys at 5/6v, but there's been some good reports on the HV attys at 7.4V.

 

[Thulium]

Consider yourself corrected The Prodigy V2 is 5v!!!
and I can not wait for it to show up at my front door

It is? Oh, I see they say "Voltage under load is roughly 4.8 - 5.7". Interesting. What is the voltage under load for the GLV?

Perhaps someone (maybe even my engineer friend) could design an "atomizer simulation" test probe with a 510 connection and graph the voltage over time to compare the various mods empiracly? That way if you know what voltage is your "sweet spot", you could best decide which mod or mods is the best fit for you.

 

[Scottbee]

Do you not agree that it is possible for the cap to work basically as a voltage "leak" that only operates when placed under load--like a pipe with a hole that only opens when enough pressure is applied? Screwing and unscrewing the cap operates as a physical "switch" for this effect, and that is exactly what is demonstrated in the video.

No.. I do not agree at all. Delrin (acetal homopolymer) is not a semiconductor. It is a dielectric. And that means, at the frequencies that we are talking about (DC) it is an insulator, and a damn fine one at that.

If you want to understand how the XHaler system works, quit looking at the cap and start looking at what the cap presses against.

 

[Scottbee]

Perhaps someone (maybe even my engineer friend) could design an "atomizer simulation" test probe with a 510 connection and graph the voltage over time to compare the various mods empiracly? That way if you know what voltage is your "sweet spot", you could best decide which mod or mods is the best fit for you.

The "design" isn't tough. 2.5 Ohms with a 10W capability. You can make it from wire-wound resistors that you get from Radio Shack. I've got one sitting right here for testing my 510 batteries... and many other people (Drew included) have one too.

 

[Nuck]

All of this does bring up a lot of issues with how all the commercial mod handle voltage under load.

Every single one of them is subject to the base atomizer resistance and the varying voltage of the batteries through the complete battery cycle. With the prices that they are commanding, I don't think it is unreasonable for them to get past the tube and switch model and start managing power properly. I've seen dozens of modders do it using varying techniques over the last 6 months. At some point you'd expect one of the vendors to finally step up.

 

[doots]

All of this does bring up a lot of issues with how all the commercial mod handle voltage under load.

Every single one of them is subject to the base atomizer resistance and the varying voltage of the batteries through the complete battery cycle. With the prices that they are commanding, I don't think it is unreasonable for them to get past the tube and switch model and start managing power properly. I've seen dozens of modders do it using varying techniques over the last 6 months. At some point you'd expect one of the vendors to finally step up.

How would they manage power more properly?

 

[Thulium]

The "design" isn't tough. 2.5 Ohms with a 10W capability. You can make it from wire-wound resistors that you get from Radio Shack. I've got one sitting right here for testing my 510 batteries... and many other people (Drew included) have one too.

Didn't figure it would be. Have you considered graphing the voltage through a complete battery cycle? I would love to be able to compare the complete charts for a number of models/batteries--it seems like that is the only way you could get an objective comparison of the various mods.

 

[Nuck]

How would they manage power more properly?

They would provide a constant voltage under load throughout the entire battery cycle. This can be accomplished using a linear voltage regulator with 2 bats, a switching regulator with 2 bats (for higher efficiency) or a boost converter with a single bat.

I've seen at least 20 mods that use one of these methods to give far better vaping than any of the vendors sell.

There are quite a few other upgrades that can be done as well, but starting with the basics of power management would be a nice start.

 

[Surf Monkey]

My choice is the Prodigy. My V2 is on the way next week.

 

[Scottbee]

They would provide a constant voltage under load throughout the entire battery cycle. This can be accomplished using a linear voltage regulator with 2 bats, a switching regulator with 2 bats (for higher efficiency) or a boost converter with a single bat.

I've seen at least 20 mods that use one of these methods to give far better vaping than any of the vendors sell.

I absolutely agree.

I'd like to see it taken a step further and close the loop so it can be constant power in lieu of constant voltage. That will help eliminate the variation due to atty resistances.