Best cigarette-looking e-cig around?

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DURBANS

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Jul 28, 2009
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Hello!

I already have a Janty Stick so I know that the e-cigs that DONT look like a cigarette are better, since I also have an ePuffer Eaze Magnum kit, which I bought before the Stick.

The vapour production on the Magnum is REALLY good, but I find that between the 2 batteries I have, one is really good and sensitive, while the other (the long one) needs a really hard "suck" in order to work.

What would be the absolute BEST cigarette-looking e-cig that will give me the same (or more) vapour as the Magnum, more sensitive drag and performance, as well as battery life?

Thanks!
 

wv2win

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Feb 10, 2009
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I personally prefer the titan 510, but I was refering to the first post that stated e-cigs that don't look like real cigs are better.

The 510 is a good PV but does have a few short comings, mainly the shortness of the battery life and the cost of replacement batteries and the carts are fairly small.

The bigger battery PV's that do not look like a regular analog have a number of advantages when it comes to performance. Let's take the Prodigy for example. You have a 5 volt battery which just by pure electrical science must provide better power than the small PV's. The throat hit is great and consistent. The batteries last anywhere from 5-7 hours before needing recharged. The batteries cost $2.90 to replace instead of the $14-$20 for the analog type PV's. And that is just compared to the manual 510. Compared to an auto switch PV such as the super mini 4081 with battery cut offs and liquid gumming up the batteries it's like comparing a rolls royce to a yugo.
 

Kent C

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Jun 12, 2009
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I personally prefer the titan 510, but I was refering to the first post that stated e-cigs that don't look like real cigs are better.

I'll give it a try...

Ecigs that look like cigs have small batteries - less power, less puffs.
Batts are also not normally 'sealed' - leading to problems.

They are auto style. When you have to take a draw to start an auto, since the draw itself starts the atomizer, you can easily get juice in your mouth with the starting draw. There is the 'priming draw' technique but many times it takes a strong draw to start and then your mouthpiece is acting like a straw as well.

Once you do get a vape going, autos also have a cutoff and that can interrupt a good vape. So does throwing the ecig across the room ;-) (hence wv2win's addition of 'frustration' in his 'rule of thumb' )

Many of the carts are nano small - more topping off.

The prices of _some_ (not all) of these from the companies that sell them are outrageously high in comparison to ecigs that actually work. Just check out the top of the line SE - $169 and $40 for an extra battery.
If you shop around for a 510 you can get a full kit, 5 extra batts, 5 extra attys, a PCC, a passthrough, the usb wall and car plugs and a bunch of juice for that same price - with free shipping and get it in two days from the Widow, for example, rather than the month to 6 weeks people have waited on 'those other companies'.

And most, again, not all, are totally incompatible with the next ecig you're going to have to buy so that you can actually vape.

The 510 manual (or even the 901 or 801 in manual configs) is a no brainer for newbies that do just a little homework. If you want to go on to a mod after that, they you have to do some investigating, and chances are that if you went with the 510, 901, 801, to start, you'll have 'extra parts' for a mod if you decide to go that path as you gain more knowledge of the varioius possibilities.
 
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