Best high drain 18650 batteries?
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I think he meant 6 or 7 DOLLARS per VTC Mooch. But im probally wrong. Im picking up twenty of the 3000mah LG cells for use in my regulated boxes. Even at 100w those will be GREAT and I NEVER go past 90 and thats rare. Excited to see the diffrence in batterie time.
To hit 30A on a mechanical you'd have to build pretty freaking low like in the .13 range and then you're looking at 125 to 130 watt build constant until the battery starts to taper off anyways. That's where a parallel mech box comes in handy I have one 18650 tube mech left and truthfully it doesn't do it for me anymore my 26650 copper hades mod hits twice as hard as my pegasus 18650 and the battery lasts almost double the amount of time.
I'm looking into series mech box so I wanted to see what batteries were recommended for mech use that really live up to their hype.
I'm looking into series mech box so I wanted to see what batteries were recommended for mech use that really live up to their hype.
I have definitely gotten a great deal of valuable responses here today and greatly appreciate the posts everyone.
Mooch what batteries would you totally stay clear of I don't want to be holding a bomb in my hand I seen what that looks like and it ain't pretty.
Mooch what batteries would you totally stay clear of I don't want to be holding a bomb in my hand I seen what that looks like and it ain't pretty.
Mooch will most likely say E Fest for one as well as cells that arent major companies. You would not want a sub ohm cell or whatever. And its not about HITTING the CDR with a mech its about having AMPLE clearence. .15 draws 28 amps. People will say thats even pushing it. I personally dont like to draw more then 22 amps with VTC4. I build my mech mod drippers to .19. Thats 22.something amps and 90something watts without voltage drop and on a fresh battery. Do what you want but personally I dont consider it smart go build any lower then .19. I know tons of people do but I am just voiceing my opinion
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Just to be safe if your not using a regulated mod and want a decent ammount of mAh GET VTC4s from ILLUMN. You will NEVER be sold a fake cell, prices are CRAZY CHEAP for authentic cells, they give a case per pair you buy and you can get free shipping in the US over x $. Cant remember the name but I am going to grab a bunch of the new 3kmAh LGs.
I was chatting with Mooch earlier and for my needs in a regulated box up to 100w (which I would NEVER vape at, its headroom lol) he basically told me that the Samsung 3000mAh and LG 3000mAh were such a close call in terms of which one has better performance and I should just get the cheaper one. I do an annual battery replace and re stock was going to get 25r again but after chatting with Mooch I will be going with the LGs to enjoy longer run time. You will be fine in a DUAL CELL mod using either of the new 3000mAh LG/Sammies as long as your not going drastically above 100w. Remember your build means nothing in a regulated device. Its wattage that counts.
I am SOOOOO excited for a cell thats BETTER then the 25r AND has a higher mah. It will be awesome for my regulated boxes. For ANYTHING mech, LONG LIVE THE VTC4
I was chatting with Mooch earlier and for my needs in a regulated box up to 100w (which I would NEVER vape at, its headroom lol) he basically told me that the Samsung 3000mAh and LG 3000mAh were such a close call in terms of which one has better performance and I should just get the cheaper one. I do an annual battery replace and re stock was going to get 25r again but after chatting with Mooch I will be going with the LGs to enjoy longer run time. You will be fine in a DUAL CELL mod using either of the new 3000mAh LG/Sammies as long as your not going drastically above 100w. Remember your build means nothing in a regulated device. Its wattage that counts.
I am SOOOOO excited for a cell thats BETTER then the 25r AND has a higher mah. It will be awesome for my regulated boxes. For ANYTHING mech, LONG LIVE THE VTC4
Personally, I will not use any rewrapped batteries. None have tested to their claimed specs so far and if I can buy the original cells these rewrapped batteries use, then why pay more for the rewraps? The rewraps can change what cells they use at any time too, without changing the specs. They could use VTC4's for a few months, get great reviews, and then switch to a truly inferior cell to save lots of dollars. Not saying that anyone does this though. Just that Sony, Samsung, and LG will absolutely not do that.
Oops, my bad, thought it was rated at 30A (especially looking at that 30A discharge curve).. Thanks for pointing that out.
And no, I never push things that far, my usual mech configuration may draw some 8A, if that
Oops, my bad, thought it was rated at 30A (especially looking at that 30A discharge curve).. Thanks for pointing that out.
And no, I never push things that far, my usual mech configuration may draw some 8A, if that
8A is good.
I set a current rating of 20A for the 30Q battery because the temperature was extremely high at 25A (97°C) and I felt that operation at 30A would raise the temperature above 110°C. This is a crazy high temperature for a battery to operate at and is way to close to the temperature the battery would vent at.
A battery's current rating can be set to a wide range of different values. It all depends on what limits you set for temperature, cycle life, voltage under load, etc. Quite a few battery's can be discharged at 30A and might even have good voltage under load discharge curves. But, how hot does that battery get? How close is it getting to possibly venting? How many times can you do those 30A discharges before you see damage to the cell (reduced capacity, voltage sag, etc.).
My tests take all these thing into account and involve 9-13 discharges for each graph, depending on the cell's rating...minimum. Most other testers do just one discharge or just one set of discharges at different values. Few do temperature measurement or multiple discharges at the rated current level to see if it damages the battery. This why my ratings are often lower than other tester's ratings.
In no way am I putting down these other testers though! They all provide a great service to the vaping community. Since they use the same test for each battery you can still use each tester's result to compare against other batteries that tester has reviewed. It does make it harder to compare results from one tester against another though. No solution to that problem!
Ask questions. Find out what each tester's methods are and what equipment they use (see my blog for my info). Ask lots of questions. Then pick the tester you feel most comfortable with...whoever that is.
LG HE2 is my 650 of choice, its one of the longest lasting I've tried. At a burst discharge of 35A it will handle just about anything.
Well I guess I'm going to have to try some different cells to see what works best in my applications.
Now here's my question when running in series you increase input voltage which means that you wouldn't need to build as low to create the same wattage.
which means that your amperage draw would not be as great, could you use the new Samsung 3000 mah in that kind of application? A 0.40 ohm build is a 21 draw and 176 watts not that one needs to vape 176 watts.
Now here's my question when running in series you increase input voltage which means that you wouldn't need to build as low to create the same wattage.
which means that your amperage draw would not be as great, could you use the new Samsung 3000 mah in that kind of application? A 0.40 ohm build is a 21 draw and 176 watts not that one needs to vape 176 watts.
When you build in series, you double the voltage, but you are still running off the max amp rating of one battery. If you build parallel, the voltage stays the same, but you double the max ampacity. In a series build, 21A is not safe unless you have 30A batteries. But it's fine in a parallel build with 20A batteries.
Geez the HE2 overheats at 20a, that's why they came out with the HE4. You have bigger ones than I do if your running a HE2 at 35a.
The HE2 is a great battery provided that you don't need ultra high amps. Used within the 'sanity range' (~10a) they last a long time. (that's a 0.4 ohm build on a mechanical BTW)
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Wow. Running an HE2 at 35a. Bro. Pulse, burst w.e you call it DOES NOT MATTER ITS ABOUT THE CDR AND THE CDR ONLY. You CAN NOT safely push any 18650 to 35a. The VTC4 I trust to go 21 22 amp but the HE2? You got balls buddy
Burst is 10-20 second duration, i don't know about you but if I'm going to take a 10+ second drag it wouldn't be with a coil needing 20+ Amps to fire correctly. CDR doesn't mean anything when it comes to vaping. Built to ~0.3Ω i need 12A, which falls at 60% of the CDR and 34% of the burst. Ive never even experienced a warm battery with the HE2.
A CDR can mean a lot when you are trying to determine what current levels will be safe in case of an autofiring regulated mod or a mech with a stuck, broken, or mistakenly pressed button. I'm testing a Vappower 2500mAh battery right now that claims a rating of 35A constant and 50A burst. No other information (timing, temperature, cycle life). Ignoring the fact that no 18650 battery has a true 35A CDR, does anyone think they won't be in really big trouble if they are burst firing at 50A and their mod malfunctions?
Can I chain vape that Vappower with 10 sec draws at 50A? That's still using it at burst. Pretty sure that the battery would overheat and possibly vent if we tried that. A burst rating can be set to almost anything depending on what conditions (that we don't know) the rewrapper/vendor sets.
A CDR is the only way you can compare the rating of a new battery, or a rewrap, against a cell manufacturer's rating for the different batteries out there. A CDR is also an easy way to compare one battery against another. Does Vappower use the same on/off timing for their burst rating that Efest does? Does Imren have the same temperature limit for their burst ratings that Basen does? How can we use burst ratings to compare batteries without knowing these things?
In my opinion, It's the burst (pulse) ratings that aren't very meaningful when it comes to vaping.
Without a specified duty cycle (on time and off time), max temperature reached, and specified cycle life at the tested burst current rating, you really can't use a burst rating to determine anything. I can run a lot of 10A batteries at bursts higher than 35A. They would reach dangerously high temperatures, and only last 50 cycles, but they would have a 35A burst rating because they all ran at 35A. Give the same battery to five rewrappers and you could get five different burst ratings.
Setting a CDR is simpler, easier to test for, and can be used to directly compare one cell to another without trying to find out what duty cycle to use, etc. I feel that a CDR has a great deal of meaning when it comes to vaping. But, that's just me...
Buddy, dont go around spouting that. Vapers, you dont go by the pulse or burst. Its meaningless. This guy is advocateing unsafe vapeing. Ask Mooch or Bad, wait Mooch already said what I did....PAY ATTENTION TO NOTHING ABOUT A BURST OR PULSE ITS THE CDR. I DONT THINK THERES ANY 18650 WITH A HIGHER THEN 30a CDR
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