Best in-line volt meter

[HawkeyeCS]

Just wondering what are some good in-line volt meters (looking to be able to test with and without a load). I would want something 510 threaded. Not sure who sells them and what some of the better devices are (or if there is even a better device?), I saw that madvapes has one but it's out of stock. I've seen a ton of different meters in various vids, so not sure if people are making them or purchasing them...

Thanks!

 

[ChrispyCritter]

I don't believe those are super accurate (not to mention the 2 sec delay before it reads) but there isn't any others in a box that I've seen..there are adapters to attach a multimeter though and that would probably be a lot more accurate..someone just linked one the other day but I forget which thread or I would link it for you.

 

[donnah]

I got mine at madvapes. I'm happy with it. The white one is available if you don't want to wait on the black.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

I got mine at madvapes. I'm happy with it. The white one is available if you don't want to wait on the black.

Yeah I thought about getting one of those they are not bad if you just want something to get an idea of what your device is doing and if you're not handy at building things. If you're handy you can buy those displays for under $4 shipped on eBay and build your own (IDK about the seller I linked to just grabbed the link quickly and you can get the tester from a lot of them).

They are really simple to wire you just get 2 connectors maybe out of an old atomizer and a battery connector usually 510 but you could put any connector you wanted..then you attach the + of the connectors and in the middle connect the wire/s to the + of the meter..do pretty much the same for the - except the wire attaches to the outside of the connectors. To finish you just find a box to with a hole for the display to put it into

 

[donnah]

Yeah I thought about getting one of those they are not bad if you just want something to get an idea of what your device is doing and if you're not handy at building things. If you're handy you can buy those displays for under $4 shipped on eBay and build your own (IDK about the seller I linked to just grabbed the link quickly and you can get the tester from a lot of them).

They are really simple to wire you just get 2 connectors maybe out of an old atomizer and a battery connector usually 510 but you could put any connector you wanted..then you attach the + of the connectors and in the middle connect the wire/s to the + of the meter..do pretty much the same for the - except the wire attaches to the outside of the connectors. To finish you just find a box to with a hole for the display to put it into

I'm not trying to argue and I appreciate your trying to help but I don't understand about the madvapes voltmeter not being accurate. I know you're not a provari fan but whatever I set the provari at.. the voltmeter says exactly the same thing. nothing more, nothing less. every time. Are you saying that when I set the provari at 5v and attatch the voltmeter and it says 5v that neither one is right? when Pbusardo did his provari review, he set the device to a certain voltage and the voltmeter he was using said the same thing. So I would imagine my voltmeter is at least as accurate as the one Pbusardo uses.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

I'm not trying to argue and I appreciate your trying to help but I don't understand about the madvapes voltmeter not being accurate. I know you're not a provari fan but whatever I set the provari at.. the voltmeter says exactly the same thing. nothing more, nothing less. every time. Are you saying that when I set the provari at 5v and attatch the voltmeter and it says 5v that neither one is right? when Pbusardo did his provari review, he set the device to a certain voltage and the voltmeter he was using said the same thing. So I would imagine my voltmeter is at least as accurate as the one Pbusardo uses.

I mean they are not that inaccurate but the 2 second delay to get a reading. Pbusardo also uses a digital scope attached to it to get really accurate measurements. Although those could be off a little driving 2 meters. Anyways being that accurate isn't all that important even with the devices..if you change them .1v it's hard to tell much difference..I usually change mine at .2 incriminates. This has nothing to do with the Provari it's just about a digital multimeter is a lot more likely to be more accurate..these meters are $1 battery testers and they don't work on all devices. I would use one in a mod though and they are cheap enough...

 

[carlton]

Just wondering what are some good in-line volt meters (looking to be able to test with and without a load). I would want something 510 threaded. Not sure who sells them and what some of the better devices are (or if there is even a better device?), I saw that madvapes has one but it's out of stock. I've seen a ton of different meters in various vids, so not sure if people are making them or purchasing them...

Thanks!

Every in-line volt meter is basically the same. 2 connectors, this chip, and some wire in a box. The only real difference between them will be their appearance, they should all perform equally. I think I was trying to make this point in another thread, but failed miserably.

As far as accuracy is concerned, I haven't gone crazy testing them or anything, but they're probably at least as accurate as your average cheap multimeter. Probably more so, because they don't add as much resistance as the leads on a multimeter.

 

[donnah]

so if you're crafty, you can gather the parts and build your own cheap. Or if you're like me and not crafty (at anything that has to do with electronics) then you can spend $15 and buy one.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

Probably more so, because they don't add as much resistance as the leads on a multimeter.

Idk the lead wires on my inexpensive digital multimeter are low ohms and remember you're adding wires inside the meter. Then you get a 2 second delay in getting your reading..I guess you would have to measure the resistance of the meter setup..don't forget that battery tester also uses the voltage from the device to drive the meter when most (probably all digital ones) multimeter's use there own battery.


On top of that both ways you're adding in a couple extra connectors so that adds to the resistance. If you wanted to be really really accurate the best way to test a device would be a meter that could put a load on the device at the ohms you set it without a atomizer. I've thought about taking cartomizers leaving them open with different ohm coils and attaching lead wires of my meter near the coil to get really close measurements..still wouldn't be perfect though but nothing is...

 

[yzer]

I have been wanting a way to measure voltage with load connected to the PV. Since I have a good DMM already I think a small plastic switchbox would work great. I may build one soon.

all I'd need is:

small plastic box
double pole, double throw switch
a pair of jacks for the DMM probes
a pair of 510 connectors
wire for the box, as needed

This switch box would allow me to meter voltage from the battery with the switch in one position and voltage to the load (atty or carto) in the other switch position. Just read the value off the DMM which is connected to the box with jacks.

Actually, I think Pbusardo used a box like this in his earlier vids. It doesn't look as good on camera as a box with the meter display right on it. OTOH, this box with the DMM will be as accurate as the DMM itself with the additional components contributing negligible resistance.

 

[carlton]

The leads on my multimeter are 0.2 ohm. That's greater than 10% of the resistance of a low ohm atomizer. Measuring the resistance of my inline meter, I get 0. Of course, that's using the same cheapo multimeter and subtracting the resistance of the leads. All meters will draw some of the power from the tested device across some resistance to determine the output. Yes, some of that for the inline meter has to be used to run the led. Something in the order of .005 Watts. So, negligible. Also, the connectors will add negligible resistance unless they're corroded. The wires will add negligible resistance unless they're super long, then they may add some capacitance. Negligible in this case is < .001 ohms.

What I'm saying, in a nutshell, is that the inline meter should be more accurate than your idea due to the resistance of the leads. If you use a break out box, like you're suggesting, you'll be adding as much as 15% resistance to the load, depending on the load, simply from the leads of your meter.

Sorry for the long-windedness of this post. I have a BSEE, so I do have a clue about which I speak.

@donnah - Yes, that's what I'm saying. lol

 

[yzer]

Resistance of all components of a well designed DMM are already compensated for in the calibration of the meter.

 

[carlton]

Absolutely correct, yzer. Sure, you can buy a Fluke MM for $130+. I love those things and if I thought I had need for one, I'd get one. However, 99.9% of the people reading this post are trying to decide between using a $15 multimeter or a $15 inline meter. So, caveat: If you have a high dollar, high end multimeter/oscilloscope, use that.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

The leads on my multimeter are 0.2 ohm. That's greater than 10% of the resistance of a low ohm atomizer. Measuring the resistance of my inline meter, I get 0. Of course, that's using the same cheapo multimeter and subtracting the resistance of the leads. All meters will draw some of the power from the tested device across some resistance to determine the output. Yes, some of that for the inline meter has to be used to run the led. Something in the order of .005 Watts. So, negligible. Also, the connectors will add negligible resistance unless they're corroded. The wires will add negligible resistance unless they're super long, then they may add some capacitance. Negligible in this case is < .001 ohms.

What I'm saying, in a nutshell, is that the inline meter should be more accurate than your idea due to the resistance of the leads. If you use a break out box, like you're suggesting, you'll be adding as much as 15% resistance to the load, depending on the load, simply from the leads of your meter.

Sorry for the long-windedness of this post. I have a BSEE, so I do have a clue about which I speak.

@donnah - Yes, that's what I'm saying. lol

We are talking voltage readings not resistance readings and voltage readings are not off 10% because of it..if we were talking ohm meters I would agree with you. I will trust my meters voltage readings to be more accurate (and closer to real time) with the leads than a $1 battery tester that takes 2 seconds to read slapped together by some e cig retailer. I believe it's close enough really but I still believe a digital multimeter is more accurate. Really we don't even need to know in these kind of accuracy's with these devices anyways.

BTW the accuracy of the DC readings on my meter are ±(0.5% Reading + 2 digits) and the lowest digit is 0.01vdc..I believe that is more accurate than that LiPo tester. I haven't done the math (I haven't used a formula in years either lol..but I know how) here so if I'm wrong please point it out as I like learning. I also can't find a spec sheet for the LiPo battery tester to compare.

I also don't have a college degree in fact I quit school in 9th grade..however I tested at a college in math in 7th grade. I noticed you said nothing about that $1 meter taking 2 seconds to give a reading?

If I could I would put a multimeter like mine in a box like that but I don't see one cheap enough and small enough to do it. That sounds like something cool to build though and it would only need a couple functions..it also would be cool with a built in resistance setting to test load like there was a coil attached.

 

[HawkeyeCS]

My soldering skills are not so hot, so I'd rather just buy one... Anybody purchased one from somewhere other then madvapes? Or would that be the one to probably get. I'm not extremely worried about accuracy, a rough idea will get me the info that I want. Also, I was wondering if there are any out there that would read the resistance of the cartomizer as well? I know the provari does this for you, so it should be possible, but unfortunately I don't have the cash for provari setup as of yet...

 

[ChrispyCritter]

My soldering skills are not so hot, so I'd rather just buy one... Anybody purchased one from somewhere other then madvapes? Or would that be the one to probably get. I'm not extremely worried about accuracy, a rough idea will get me the info that I want. Also, I was wondering if there are any out there that would read the resistance of the cartomizer as well? I know the provari does this for you, so it should be possible, but unfortunately I don't have the cash for provari setup as of yet...

The newer version of the Lavatube coming around the end of may is supposed to do ohm readings..I waiting to get my 2nd one too see if it's true and other the other rumors..plus I want a chrome or stainless one. Yeah a device like that would be nice it's kind of what I was posting about but I don't think there is a better one you can buy. One of the issues with that tester is it doesn't work with some regulators..I believe it doesn't work on eGo batteries but it works on a LT.

I haven't bought from them but they have them here LED Digital Voltage Tester in white or black..they are in the registered suppliers forum also SmokTek So it should be safe ordering from them.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

Oh BTW MadVapes does have the white one in stock it says just not the black one..Assembled Volt Indicator

 

[carlton]

We are talking voltage readings not resistance readings and voltage readings are not off 10% because of it..if we were talking ohm meters I would agree with you. I will trust my meters voltage readings to be more accurate (and closer to real time) with the leads than a $1 battery tester that takes 2 seconds to read slapped together by some e cig retailer. I believe it's close enough really but I still believe a digital multimeter is more accurate. Really we don't even need to know in these kind of accuracy's with these devices anyways.

The voltage reading will not be wrong, it may simply change the load that the pv sees and therefore put out a different voltage. For example, with my LT, when it sees a 1.5 ohm load, it maxes out around 3.7V, but when it sees a 1.7 ohm load, it maxes out around 4.1V. So when testing your pv to see what it will put out under load, the leads of the multimeter will change the load and thereby give possibly misleading results.

BTW the accuracy of the DC readings on my meter are ±(0.5% Reading + 2 digits) and the lowest digit is 0.01vdc..I believe that is more accurate than that LiPo tester. I haven't done the math (I haven't used a formula in years either lol..but I know how) here so if I'm wrong please point it out as I like learning. I also can't find a spec sheet for the LiPo battery tester to compare.

I believe that the stated accuracy of both of them are the same. That doesn't mean much in the real world, though. They crank those chips out (both for the DMM and 1s-6s) in massive batches and a whole batch could be off 10% and we'd never know it.

I also don't have a college degree in fact I quit school in 9th grade..however I tested at a college in math in 7th grade. I noticed you said nothing about that $1 meter taking 2 seconds to give a reading?

I apologize if my post came off as if I was talking down to or demeaning you. That was definitely not my intention. I have built, soldered and tested a lot of circuits. I've also let the "magic smoke" out of quite a few.

When you put voltage across that chip, it blinks to let you know it's initializing, then it gives you a voltage. It needs a moment to wake up and get power to the relevant circuits.

If I could I would put a multimeter like mine in a box like that but I don't see one cheap enough and small enough to do it. That sounds like something cool to build though and it would only need a couple functions..it also would be cool with a built in resistance setting to test load like there was a coil attached.

That's actually a good idea. Not sure if it's really practical, but it would be possible to keep your load stable rather than depend on cartos that are also a variable. Maybe just use a rheostat for a load that you can adjust and test. Like this one.

 

[ChrispyCritter]

I believe that the stated accuracy of both of them are the same. That doesn't mean much in the real world, though. They crank those chips out (both for the DMM and 1s-6s) in massive batches and a whole batch could be off 10% and we'd never know it.


I apologize if my post came off as if I was talking down to or demeaning you. That was definitely not my intention. I have built, soldered and tested a lot of circuits. I've also let the "magic smoke" out of quite a few.

Well we might have an idea it was off 10% say testing a battery off the charger and the voltage was off..but you're right without something to calibrate it you can't be 100%. My biggest thing is the 2 second refresh but really for most users it wouldn't really matter.

I even thought about buying 2-3 of those testers off eBay and building a tester and a mod or 2 with them. I looked for better displays also but it was hard find an inexpensive one that was simple to just wire in like that one.

No offense taken I was just stating my education level..there are things I know and things I don't..I'm not easily offended. I have repaired a few game consoles (over 1,000) and computers..I just have a knack for it. I don't know everything nor pretend to. I have fried a few things but overall I've been very successful fixing things

 

[Sense Field]

Just wondering what are some good in-line volt meters (looking to be able to test with and without a load). I would want something 510 threaded. Not sure who sells them and what some of the better devices are (or if there is even a better device?), I saw that madvapes has one but it's out of stock. I've seen a ton of different meters in various vids, so not sure if people are making them or purchasing them...

Thanks!

The Shadow Tester
There ya go...I just ordered one, hopefully it's better then the inline black one I bought with the screen built in.