Best mini tank for not sub ohming?

[tara81]

I haven't read the whole thread, so sorry if this has already been pointed out, but you do NOT have to direct lung a sub-ohm tank. You can close the airflow, 50-80%, use a drip tip with a smaller bore, turn down the wattage, and MTL(mouth to lung) that same tank all day long. That is exactly what I do.

I personally use a Serpent SMM (Rebuildable) with a 0.6ohm SS316L build in it, with airflow closed about 70% and a narrow bore tip and MTL exclusively. I have also done the same thing with several other tanks. It does increase flavor.

So i tried sub ohming again yesterday , and I realized the taste was really warm but not very tasty, then the coughing .. it tickled my throat too much to enjoy it ... the exhale was okay, same as my 1.8 ohm nautilis mini .

I tried 0.5 ohms on my kanger subtank mini, i tried 20 watts, no cloud, 25 watts, barely any flavor and cloud, 27 watts, coughting, couldn't inhale very long without coughing.. 30 watts... too strong (coughing) not enjoyable. Maybe I just need to get more used to sub ohming slowly. Sort of like how i slowly get used to changing my wattage on my nautilis mini from 8 watts to 10.5 watts. But now i got vapors tongue so ill just have to wait awhile before testing sub ohming again <-- me waiting for vapors tongue to go away

 

[ScottP]

So i tried sub ohming again yesterday , and I realized the taste was really warm but not very tasty, then the coughing .. it tickled my throat too much to enjoy it ... the exhale was okay, same as my 1.8 ohm nautilis mini .

I tried 0.5 ohms on my kanger subtank mini, i tried 20 watts, no cloud, 25 watts, barely any flavor and cloud, 27 watts, coughting, couldn't inhale very long without coughing.. 30 watts... too strong (coughing) not enjoyable. Maybe I just need to get more used to sub ohming slowly. Sort of like how i slowly get used to changing my wattage on my nautilis mini from 8 watts to 10.5 watts. But now i got vapors tongue so ill just have to wait awhile before testing sub ohming again <-- me waiting for vapors tongue to go away

OK now we are getting somewhere. Are you by chance using the same juice sub-ohm as you are in high ohm tanks? What nic level?

I ask because sub ohming delivers quite a bit more nic per puff, which means more throat hit. So most people need to use lower nic levels when sub ohming. For instance I used 18mg in my old ARO tanks at 1.8ohms but dropped to 6mg when I switched to sub ohm. Likewise maybe you should try to reduce nic when doing this.

Another option to reduce the cough from too much throat hit, it to use nic salts liquid instead of regular nic. You can get the same same level of nic with less TH. This is what I did for the wife who had the same coughing problem.

 

[tara81]

I use no nicotine ejuice, lol . Quit smoking 10 years ago. Only started vaping 4 - 5 years ago , hehe.

 

[ScottP]

I use no nicotine ejuice, lol . Quit smoking 10 years ago. Only started vaping 4 - 5 years ago , hehe.

OK well you can't get lower than 0. Have you tried 90VG/10DW juice or 100%PG to see if the coughing is a reaction to PG or VG?

I will add one more tidbit. In my wife's case her coughing issues with vaping were always severely exasperated at times she had any sort of sinus drainage, especially during allergy season or if she had a cold.

 

[catilley1092]

Coiling rda/rta isnt easy, it will take time and learning. When you get it, its easy, but there is no short road to winning. Or you could ask for help, im pretty positive, that somewhere near you is somebody that would be happy to give you helping hand, with a smile

Over 3 years after for the most part after stopped purchasing packaged coils, due to a spinal condition (degenerative disc disease), some days are better than others. Then there comes one type of build versus another. My first was with the single coil Kanger tanks (eGo) with single coil & fixed airflow, using Ekowool silica, then discovered how to rebuild the Kangertech Mini sub-ohm tank. Now have too types of rebuildables that requires various wire lengths & placement. This Reload RTA throws me off looking at it, so will use some prebuilt Clapton coils that requires wicking before usage.

Still, took me nearly a year to begin try DIY rebuilds of coils, for the longest time, was the Kanger with silica, at the time what many used.

So while DIY coils can be done, it's not for everyone & requires lots of patience & practice on a good day. Taking myself as an example, will usually do enough when feeling well to perform several, this saves the torch from being fired many times & the equipment from being dragged out, once started, after the first, the rest are usually faster. That way, when I don't feel up to building, am not forced to.

I agree, there's no short road to winning & once there, another challenge will come along. Purchased a 25 foot spool of 100% SS Clapton wire, here comes yet another learning curve.

Cat

 

[Celt1]

Interesting thread. First, although I hate politically correct nonsense, I feel that Anna was not using the PC card, she was stating her personal experience of having difficulty with some rebuilding due to her medical condition, and felt a post (or more) discounted she and others with similar difficulties.

That is a totally valid thing for her to comment on, and I think some responses were condescending and insensitive. Unless you have the same or a very similar condition, you have no idea what difficulties they may experience. That's my two cents on that.

Onward to the OP's dilemma. You want better flavor, are a bit intimidated by building, want a relatively small tank, and think you need a pretty high Ohm coil, and sub-Ohming hits your throat too hard and makes you cough. Hope that sums your concerns up.

I'm a flavor first person and also find that sucking a big cloud in wide open inhales makes me cough as well. I'm pretty new to vaping, but I'll share what I have learned so far. A "good" MTL tank can indeed give excellent flavor. It may take some experimenting to get there, with coils and wicking and such, but it is very possible. I was getting discouraged my first week or more, but things kept improving, so stick at it.

Your wariness at building is understandable, I felt the same way. I dove in, and found it really is not all that complicated, and you can probably master it if you decide to take the plunge.

If you do, then I can tell you that my favorite MTL tanks at this point are my Kayfun Prime clones, and my Doggystyle clones. Both are giving me very enjoyable vapes with a variety of E-liquids. The only downside to these was the waiting time from 3Vape and Fastech shipments . The prices on these are extremely reasonable.

I also agree with the person who said that you don't have to vape DTL style on a non-MTL tank. Nor do you have to go "Sub-Ohm". I have the OBS Crius II, the Zeus, the OBS Mini, and the Wake. I use them to vape in a sort of modified MTL style, I mainly get a mouthful of vape, and may or may not inhale from there. I do get a different vape quality with these as opposed to the MTL tanks, but I like both.

As to Ohms for your coils, please don't pre-judge what you want. I did that, based on what I had read about MTL vaping. I thought I wanted coils in the 1 to 1.7 range. However, from actual experimenting with the tanks I have, I find that .5 to .6 Ohm coils are working best in the MTL tanks. For the other tanks I think a range of .33 to .6 is suiting me best. Let your tank, coil and wick materials, liquids, and your own experience with the results guide you.

However, you may not be ready to start building. In that case I might suggest the Smok Baby Beast tank or something comparable. The coil is a pre-made cartridge, you just screw it in. The wicking is also in the cartridge, so nothing to do there either, other than to "prime it" with some liquid.

I was truly amazed by the flavor this little fella gives, and it is pretty compact too. Not doggystyle small, but reasonably small. I got it mainly because the price difference between ordering the AL85 Baby Alien mod (which is what I was after) and the kit that included the tank was so small it seemed like a no-brainer. I'm glad I did, it's a fine tank.

Best of luck, and keep up your quest to find what works for you.

 

[catilley1092]

So i tried sub ohming again yesterday , and I realized the taste was really warm but not very tasty, then the coughing .. it tickled my throat too much to enjoy it ... the exhale was okay, same as my 1.8 ohm nautilis mini .

I tried 0.5 ohms on my kanger subtank mini, i tried 20 watts, no cloud, 25 watts, barely any flavor and cloud, 27 watts, coughting, couldn't inhale very long without coughing.. 30 watts... too strong (coughing) not enjoyable. Maybe I just need to get more used to sub ohming slowly. Sort of like how i slowly get used to changing my wattage on my nautilis mini from 8 watts to 10.5 watts. But now i got vapors tongue so ill just have to wait awhile before testing sub ohming again <-- me waiting for vapors tongue to go away

It was probably the tank, I have 4 of the Kangertech Subtank mini (one still sealed), over 22W gave me a harsh taste & often burnt cotton, I believe the rating stamped on the coils are too high, should be 20W or lower. These were some of the first popular 'sub-ohm' tanks, although has drawbacks, even with the included RBA, which was worse than the coils. Having good juice flow requires some room, the RBA doesn't have it. One can barely build on it w/out causing a short, let alone have good flow, the taste was harsh & nasty, I tried every way seen on YouTube & my experience to try & use these, not good at all.

These were usually sold with a 1.2 or 1.5ohm coil preinstalled & the 0.5ohm was the spare, along with their awful RBA, the smallest I've laid eyes on, so that (the high ohm installed coil) was an indicator it was meant to be used as such, one can still order 1.5 ohm OCC coils for the tank. Don't bother with the SSOCC coils, unless you love leaks & fresh juice in your mouth.

My best success with these were to rebuild the 0.5ohm coil included, that was over a year after purchasing many packs of prebuilts. Took me all of 15 minutes to learn, and while no cloud chaser, the flavor was excellent. Note that I'm not a fan of blowing huge clouds, rather flavor of the e-juice used, for this purpose, the Kangertech Subtank Mini was a good value & still is, if can be found on a closeout sale somewhere. The coils are still carried, although only the OCC ones were good to me, the SSOCC were crap (leakage) & I don't go nowhere near their nickel option (nor that of any other). I found some horizontal OCC coils on the Sweet Vapes site, those were the best packaged ones for the tank, better flavor & didn't drink as much e-juice versus the vertical type (the most commonly used & included in package).

While the Kangertech Subtank Mini was indeed a good tank for it's day, and there were sub-ohm coils sold for it, the tank wasn't designed for that type of experience. More for flavor & light clouds. I still rate it somewhere around 4.5 (out of 5), because if used as meant, was an excellent choice. Just far off the mark to be considered a true sub-ohm tank, need one that can easily do 35-50W or so w/out issue & the right type of coil, whether packaged or self-built. I still use a couple mine to test small batches of e-juice, the other has been cleaned & repackaged, another was never opened.

Great tank for beginners to vaping, usually a satisfying draw, better than most eGo devices, yet not a cloud chaser or serious contender sub-ohm tank.

Cat

 

[catilley1092]

Interesting thread. First, although I hate politically correct nonsense, I feel that Anna was not using the PC card, she was stating her personal experience of having difficulty with some rebuilding due to her medical condition, and felt a post (or more) discounted she and others with similar difficulties.

That is a totally valid thing for her to comment on, and I think some responses were condescending and insensitive. Unless you have the same or a very similar condition, you have no idea what difficulties they may experience. That's my two cents on that.

+1!

There are many of us that has similar conditions, we have our good & bad days, and make the best out of all. Those of us who are less than 100% healthy are more prone to face each day according to any conditions we have. I've found the most help from such folks, be it vaping assistance, or with working on computers (my passion).

According on what site visited (in the US), it's estimated that 50 to 70% of working adults will have some type of spinal or central nervous system condition in our lifetime. If by chance a reader of this isn't included, count yourself lucky, and take steps to prevent spinal injury before it happens, such as proper lifting, posture & other things that can cause injury.

Some conditions will strike no matter what, or as a result of an accident. CNS disorders are no fun to live with, affects everyone in the home to some degree. I have both, spinal disorder (degenerative disc disease & CNS disorder due to such), sometimes as patients we leash out. While some does, I don't believe Anna did in her post, was doing her best to be helpful.

Most of us with these conditions, of which there's hundreds of, on our bad days are in no mood to be on the computer. There's always going to be those who'll blame the World for their fate, yet I don't believe Anna is of that type.

Cat

 

[tara81]

It was probably the tank, I have 4 of the Kangertech Subtank mini (one still sealed), over 22W gave me a harsh taste & often burnt cotton, I believe the rating stamped on the coils are too high, should be 20W or lower. These were some of the first popular 'sub-ohm' tanks, although has drawbacks, even with the included RBA, which was worse than the coils. Having good juice flow requires some room, the RBA doesn't have it. One can barely build on it w/out causing a short, let alone have good flow, the taste was harsh & nasty, I tried every way seen on YouTube & my experience to try & use these, not good at all.

These were usually sold with a 1.2 or 1.5ohm coil preinstalled & the 0.5ohm was the spare, along with their awful RBA, the smallest I've laid eyes on, so that (the high ohm installed coil) was an indicator it was meant to be used as such, one can still order 1.5 ohm OCC coils for the tank. Don't bother with the SSOCC coils, unless you love leaks & fresh juice in your mouth.

My best success with these were to rebuild the 0.5ohm coil included, that was over a year after purchasing many packs of prebuilts. Took me all of 15 minutes to learn, and while no cloud chaser, the flavor was excellent. Note that I'm not a fan of blowing huge clouds, rather flavor of the e-juice used, for this purpose, the Kangertech Subtank Mini was a good value & still is, if can be found on a closeout sale somewhere. The coils are still carried, although only the OCC ones were good to me, the SSOCC were crap (leakage) & I don't go nowhere near their nickel option (nor that of any other). I found some horizontal OCC coils on the Sweet Vapes site, those were the best packaged ones for the tank, better flavor & didn't drink as much e-juice versus the vertical type (the most commonly used & included in package).

While the Kangertech Subtank Mini was indeed a good tank for it's day, and there were sub-ohm coils sold for it, the tank wasn't designed for that type of experience. More for flavor & light clouds. I still rate it somewhere around 4.5 (out of 5), because if used as meant, was an excellent choice. Just far off the mark to be considered a true sub-ohm tank, need one that can easily do 35-50W or so w/out issue & the right type of coil, whether packaged or self-built. I still use a couple mine to test small batches of e-juice, the other has been cleaned & repackaged, another was never opened.

Great tank for beginners to vaping, usually a satisfying draw, better than most eGo devices, yet not a cloud chaser or serious contender sub-ohm tank.

Cat

Darn lol, when I got it two years ago I read good reviews for it being a sub ohm tank haha. I tried it once then cleaned it out and left it in the dust. Now i will try the 1.2 ohm coil that came with it

 

[HauntedMyst]

I have tried sub ohming a few times and quit each time, direct lung hits don't give me the taste I want.. is that normal? I hear of everyone talking about how sub ohming gives the best flavor..

I've tried sub ohming a number of times and never got the flavor a 1.25+ ohm coil gives.

 

[tara81]

Celt1 : How do I know what a clone is ? or a good clone for that matter? Also , how do I know what wire and cotton to purchase to build 1.5 - 1.8 ohm coils ?

 

[HauntedMyst]

Use Kanthal 28 gauge wire and any pure japanese cotton, which most vape sites carry. (you can get it at beauty stores too).

 

[Celt1]

Celt1 : How do I know what a clone is ? or a good clone for that matter? Also , how do I know what wire and cotton to purchase to build 1.5 - 1.8 ohm coils ?

Ah good question. For example, the Kayfun Prime is originally made by a company named SvoёMesto. It is priced at $147.00, if it was available from a U.S. retailer. Chinese companies such as SXK and YFTK make clones which are excellent quality, and sell them for a fraction of the price through vendors such as FastTech and 3Vape for around $20.00 including shipping.

You can tell that these are clones because they are not advertised as "Authentic" or " SvoëMesto", but rather as "SXK KF Prime Style RTA" or something similar, and are being sold by a Chinese vendor for a low price.

The same thing goes for the Doggystyles, originally made by a French company named AniModz and priced at $182.00, but apparently no longer made. These can be purchased in clone form for around $10.00. I have clones made by SXK, YFTK, and others. I have been happy with them all. Some swear by one clone maker or another, but I put them side by side and they seem to differ only in the markings.

"What wire and cotton to purchase to build 1.5 - 1.8 ohm coils ?" Oh boy. To begin with, you need to know whether you are going to Vape only using "Wattage" or want the ability to use temperature control. Kanthal for example is fine for Wattage use, but cannot be used for temperature control. Stainless steel such as SS316L can be used in either manner. Titanium must be used in temperature control and not in Wattage mode.

This seems confusing at first, for the sake of simplicity I decided to go with Stainless Steel in 28 Gauge for a beginning point, since it can be used however I want. Once you know the wire you will be using your next step is to go to a website called "Steam Engine". It is basically a great calculator that tells you how to get a coil of a given material in which you can play around with the variables like Gauge, inner coil diameter, resistance, etc. and tells you how many wraps your coil would need to be. Here is a link in which I have already put in an example of SS316L 28 gauge round wire, a single coil, and a 3mm inner diameter. It tells me that I would need 9 wraps for that coil at 1 Ohm:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

If I was making a coil from plain SS316L 28 gauge round wire today for either a Doggystyle or Prime, for example, I might make a coil like this:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

That would give me a .65 Ohm coil with 6 wraps.

If I was making a 1.7 Ohm 2.5 mm coil from Kanthal 28 gauge round wire, for example, I might make a coil like this:

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

It tells me I would need 9 wraps for that coil.

BTW, the "Leg Length" variable can generally be left at the default value of 5 mm.

As to wick material, there are all kinds of options, Koh Gen Do is a highly recommended cotton, as is Cotton Bacon, and I prefer using Rayon.

Please do not take my thoughts as Gospel. There is a huge amount of information available on this forum - try the coil building and the wick and wire sub-forums on this site to learn a ton. Hope this is helpful

 

[catilley1092]

The cool thing about the 316L SS wire is that if doing so gently, and before the cotton is fused to the coil from being stopped up & vape on & on, these can be rewicked w/out changing the wire.

Once the old cotton is out, leave the leftover juice on the coils & base on the mod. Go outdoors, because it's going to be stinky, be sure to have some tweezers (preferably those with ceramic tips). Then lower the wattage to around 18W or so, begin pulsing the coil, it'll start smoking, every few seconds do it again & let off after 5 seconds, eventually will be glowing.

That's where the tweezers comes in, after seeing it glow good, back off the power & gently squeeze the coil tight, to where the wraps are touching (they'll spring back). If you see dark spots, gently scrape any off. Once cleaned as good as possible by pulsing, then allow to cool for 5 minutes & rinse the entire base really good with hot water, making sure to trickle some into the sides of the coil. This helps to break any leftover grime, a Q-Tip comes in handy here, or if nothing else, a bit of rolled tissue paper, anything to run through the coil to finish cleaning the inside. Once there's no more black goop on the tissue, should be clean, give a final rinse, shake good, allow to dry & now you're ready to rewick.

This is why I love 316L SS, can be cleaned & reused countless times, eventually will need replacement, yet you should get at least 5 wickings out of the coil after the original by this method.

While I realize that this may be a simplified explanation, you'll get the hang of it. I once thought this was overly complicated & way over my head, yet once I put my mind to doing it, has saved me lots of cash on packaged coils. Probably close to $500-600 or higher. Wire is cheap, just go on eBay & lookup TEMCo SS 316L wire, it's sold by the 100 foot spools, much cheaper than a 10-25 foot roll of the same at a local vape shop.

TEMCo Stainless Steel Wire SS 316L - 28 Gauge 100 FT Non-Resistance AWG ga | eBay

This wire is direct from the OEM, no middleman involved, free shipping, here's a list of all spools, some are 250 & 500 foot rolls, one cannot beat TEMCo's price for SS 316L wire. I've been purchasing from TEMCo for years, going back to my Kanthal days, no longer use that type, it's only SS for me. Have some double fused Clapton SS wire from another seller arriving tomorrow.

TEMCo SS 316L wire | eBay

Coils are easy to build & doesn't require a fortune for the few tools needed. I have a coil jig that has different sizes on the rod, although prefer a screwdriver better for the grip. A low cost set of wire cutters & tweezers like mentioned above are a must. If using only SS wire, a torch isn't necessary, after building & before inserting cotton to wick, pulse the coil until glowing 3-4 times. If by chance there's a Harbor Freight Tools store near you, they have most everything needed. You'll also need a $5-8 ohm meter that takes a pair of AA batteries, this is a must have for safety & knowing your coil is within the right range.

It's my hope that this post has taught you something, if nothing else, don't pay a vape shop $15 for a 25 foot roll of SS 316L or whatever wire.

Cat

 

[catilley1092]

Celt1 : How do I know what a clone is ? or a good clone for that matter? Also , how do I know what wire and cotton to purchase to build 1.5 - 1.8 ohm coils ?

TBH, there's so many great originals at fantastic pricing, clones aren't as popular as once was. Yes, there's some mods & tanks (to include RTA's & drippers) that are cloned, I have a couple. In fact, my first real mod was an Astro mechanical clone, looked so good that I had no idea that it was one, my friend who turned me onto vaping sold it to me new for $20 & was machined to perfection. Later, I'd purchase another on eBay for parts, the connector was showing wear & wow, what I got for $10 was a piece of junk, sharp edges, got what was needed & tossed the rest in the junk box.

Another clue to a clone is when you see '1:1' in the listing, or the misspelling of the words 'genuine' or authentic', may also not be a MPN or UPC code, or the code is a plain white sticker on the box. Some clones are good, some bad, just like the originals.

I believe it's more important (for now) to be concerned about wire & cotton, rather than clones, these are luck of the draw, unless there's many reviewers of a particular clone by a certain manufacturer. For instance, the Reload RTA (Kindbright version) sold on FastTech is seen as a good quality clone. Don't be shy in asking questions, on here & from the seller. FastTech has their own forum to ask about products they sell, just click the Discussions tab. If you're registered, you may ask questions & the community usually answers.

Hey, I was once intimidated by all of this & you'll likely be the same at first. Once you get your feet wet in learning DIY, you'll gain more & more confidence with every new build.

Cat

 

[Celt1]

That is true Cat, I don't buy clones of things that are readily available at what I consider to be fair prices. Hence I have "Authentic" originals from companies like Digiflavor, Geekvape, OBS, Smok, and WakeMod. For tanks like the Primes and Doggystyles, however, I went the clone route because either it is the only way to get one, or the only reasonable way. I'm just hoping things like that don't go under some huge embargo or import taxes.

The machining on those clones is really very impressive, and the quality would be hard for any manufacturer to best.

 

[catilley1092]

Celt1, that's what my friend told me about the Reload RTA (Kindbright version), he has both the original & a clone that was less than 20% of the price, while he gave the one to me for being a longtime customer & friend, sells to others for $25 each. He told me that he tested both after filling & his wife put a blindfold on & handed each several times, that other than the color of drip tip, which prevented a mix up, the vaping experience is essentially the same.

It's been sitting here, just haven't had the time to try it out, because I purchased some sweet tanks recently, a Vaporesso NRG tank came with both the Revenger X & Switcher Kits, before that came the TFV12 Cloud Beast RBA edition, then the TFV8 BBB & finally with a bit of disappointment so far, the Vaporesso Cascade (touted as the TFV12 Cloud Beast Killer). Dry hits with the GTM8 coil, OK with the GTM2, but keep getting a lot of 'No Atomizer' errors, may have to exchange that one & soon. So I've spent quite a sum on vaping hardware alone in the last three weeks, must have gone 'Stir Crazy' when seeing these tanks & the Switcher Kit.

The Revenger X kit was won here, so that was one of the NRG tanks I didn't have to purchase.

Will get to that Reload RTA clone soon, want to mix a couple batches of e-juice, will use that.

Am also in a balancing act between vaping hardware & my PC enthusiast hobby, getting ready for delidding a i7-4790K & using liquid metal as a substitute to replace the thermal paste used rather than solder & will be using a new, 25% more surface area, 100% copper IHS that sits on the die. Anyone who knows about the practice of delidding will know what I mean, the objective is to reduce temps while clocking the CPU higher, while (hopefully) using less voltage. If in the end voltage is too high for the chip, have to back off the clocks (GHz rate) to have a stable system & longer lasting CPU.

Yet I get what you mean, there's still some pricey items out there that's unaffordable to the masses, and some high tech Chinese companies creating a true 1:1 clone. These outfits are the ones who measures every dimension possible of the original, down to the inner walls, juice wells, whatever else, to create a quality clone. The glass may indeed be original (if applicable), these can be purchased from FastTech & Gear Best in very large bulk quantities, same with O-ring & washer sets, to install one & include an extra. Everyone wins & I say this because the ones buying these likely wouldn't have the brand if not a clone, it's not like the OEM is 'losing' revenue, it's free advertising. The ones who can afford the real deal will buy it from authorized resellers, the rest will get the best quality clone available after extensive research & reviews.

There are some good clone out there, the original Astro mod was over $200. It was well over a year before the friend who sold it to me told me that it was a clone, although huge difference between $20 & $200. In 2013 when I began vaping, the market wasn't flooded with low cost, high quality box mods. Most were still mechanical & expensive, my first box mod was the Eleaf 100W iStick (the model available in 2015). Not the most powerful today, yet still handles what I throw it's way. Probably can handle all of my tanks except the Cascade, when the GTM8 coils are working as should. I believe these are over packed with cotton, the root cause of the dry hits.

Although it's still important to buy where there's a return policy, so that 'V2' isn't slipped in, which may not be close to the experience of the 1:1 clone. FastTech has such a policy, we get what we order or can be exchanged or refunded, if paying with PayPal or credit card, have further rights. While I've yet to use the privilege, PayPal provides for free return shipping. Just because an outfit says 'No Returns', doesn't mean it's cast into stone, we have the right to get what we pay for, although we have to refrain from using the term 'clone' (associated with counterfeit) & with PayPal, 'e-cig device', even though they know what these are.

Cat

 

[tara81]

Thanks everyone for your input ! Does any of the popular MTL tanks have dual coils , and does this produce more flavor ? Like the vandy berserker mini and the kayfun prime mini v3 , are they dual coil rebuildable coil/atomizer tanks?

Also , I have a skin allergy to nickel. I once bought a stainless steel nose ring from a vape / tattoo shop in my area, and it made my nose break out (I had a red ring where my nosering was for a few days) . I went to the shop and said, hey I thought this was stainless steel? They said it was, and that even stainless steel can have small amounts of nickel, to those really sensitive it could affect them. So, in other words, Should I stay away from stainless steel wire , just in case?

If so , where can I buy Kanthal wire ? i am not interested in temperature control, more interested in wattage use.

 

[stols001]

Honestly, any wire (including kanthal) can have traces of other metals in it, including some nickel.

I might try Advanced Vapor Supply they offer high quality wire and prebuilt coils, I'm sure you could find some kanthal there. Whether or not it will have enough impurities to bother you, I'm uncertain. Metal allergies can be difficult. I never got my ears pierced for long because even with gold or silver posts, my body wasn't really thrilled with it, I got a reaction to the metals. If I wear certain things, including a metal watch, I am fairly likely to get a skin contact rash.

It's all going to depend. I haven't had any problems vaping stainless steel or kanthal wires from anywhere. However, it really depends on your sensitivity, and if you keep temps low in your tank, I wouldn't expect much leeching to occur.

But, I'd think that either wire, well, ,you'd have to experiment with it, and I would probably try to purchase high quality wire, and experiment. I have had 0 problems, and I don't wear jewelry much for that reason. Even my wedding ring is silver, I do better with silver than gold for whatever strange reason.

However, starting with kanthal sounds like where you want to start,. You may find you have no problems with either, but kanthal is perfectly reasonable place to begin. It will be a question if if it leeches enough into your tank to bother you. It doesn't do that to me. I'd stay hopeful, get high quality wire, and after you try kanthal, well, stainless steel may be even better in terms of NOT leeching because you can use it in Temperature control mode, and your temperature settings (not more than 420 F, for safety, although you can certainly go lower) are going to keep the temperatures stable in your tank which should theoretically result in LESS leeching and less production of undesirable things in your vape.

Best of luck! I hope you get something that works for you.

Anna

 

[tara81]

I cannot find any kanthal wire at advanced supply.