Best mod for sub-ohm under 50?

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chrisf8657

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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good mod that can easily handle sub-ohm vaping without getting hot?
I have a Lavafire Drawtube and the switch gets hot after a few hits (battery and tube itself is cool though - Sony VCT4 2100mah). Running Omega atty with dual 1.0 ohm coils (0.5 ohm)

I need something that's $50 or less - preferably around $35.

Thanks!
 
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Froth

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Infinite/SXK Stingray X, the entire electrical path is copper with a stainless outside sleeve, durable and conductive. I've pushed mine a whole lot further than I thought was possible, even with supersubohm use it has had no hot switch ever.

288 reviews and 4.7 out of 5 rating is hard to beat on Fasttech, This is the exact stingray X I bought.
$26.26 Stingray X Style Stainless Steel + Copper Mechanical Mod - 18350 / 18500 / 18650 at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

You'll wait a little longer to get it from Fasttech, but the money saved is worth it IMO.
 

DaveSignal

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I agree. I have the SS version, but I have 0 problems.

I have quite a few mech mods, and my HCigar Nemisis is my least favorite one. I've sort of gravitated toward single-tube copper mods, but even ignoring the fact that it is a modular system with pointless little rings between the modules, there are other problems with it. The switch is awful. The spring that HCigar includes with it is so weak that the mod will self-fire if it is put down without first being locked. Even with an upgrade to high quality magnets, the switch is still awful and tends to back itself out after a short period of regular use. Another issue is that there is a ring with two holes in it at the top of the mod that moves freely and the holes must be perfectly aligned in order for the tube to allow proper venting. This ring slips around all the time, this thing will probably not be in the right place in the circumstance that a battery vents.... which hopefully will never happen, but for vapers building sub-ohm it should be a regularly considered precaution.
 

sando7

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I have quite a few mech mods, and my HCigar Nemisis is my least favorite one. I've sort of gravitated toward single-tube copper mods, but even ignoring the fact that it is a modular system with pointless little rings between the modules, there are other problems with it. The switch is awful. The spring that HCigar includes with it is so weak that the mod will self-fire if it is put down without first being locked. Even with an upgrade to high quality magnets, the switch is still awful and tends to back itself out after a short period of regular use. Another issue is that there is a ring with two holes in it at the top of the mod that moves freely and the holes must be perfectly aligned in order for the tube to allow proper venting. This ring slips around all the time, this thing will probably not be in the right place in the circumstance that a battery vents.... which hopefully will never happen, but for vapers building sub-ohm it should be a regularly considered precaution.


sounds like you got a Lemon, i have none of the issues you describe but yet i keep my mec's clean enough to eat off of....i run @.3 with my Copper Nemi and i use the big Magnets from SuperMagnetMan or a Home-made Copper Spring and not the cheapo Magnets from F.T or the others you see on vendor sites and it only takes 2 and i can stand anything i put on it without firing....hope you have some better luck.
 

sando7

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I have quite a few mech mods, and my HCigar Nemisis is my least favorite one. I've sort of gravitated toward single-tube copper mods, but even ignoring the fact that it is a modular system with pointless little rings between the modules, there are other problems with it.

Sorry, I don't have the HCigar version. I should have specified that. At least I don't think I do, my engraving is bigger than most and I can't quite find a match for it online. I got it at a B&M, they couldn't tell me which one it is. I don't mind the different tubes. I don't use it in anything but 18650 mode though, so the kick ring and 18500 tube just sits in the drawer.

The switch is awful. The spring that HCigar includes with it is so weak that the mod will self-fire if it is put down without first being locked. Even with an upgrade to high quality magnets, the switch is still awful and tends to back itself out after a short period of regular use.

I don't have any problems with mine anymore. I tried magnets when I first got it and one of them broke on me within a week so I just went back to the springs. Mine came with 2 springs. It used to catch once in a while, but after a couple cleanings, press-fitting the taller spring into the groove on the underside of the switch (hard to explain) and some breaking in it's great now. It has always supported itself without firing, with or without the magnets. The negative pin used to back out, but I tightened mine down with needlenose pliers just a bit past finger tight and it stays where it is.

Another issue is that there is a ring with two holes in it at the top of the mod that moves freely and the holes must be perfectly aligned in order for the tube to allow proper venting. This ring slips around all the time, this thing will probably not be in the right place in the circumstance that a battery vents.... which hopefully will never happen, but for vapers building sub-ohm it should be a regularly considered precaution.

The vent holes are in the bottom of the 18350 tube, right above the threading for the locking ring. The holes you're talking about are AFC holes for atties that have airflow through the bottom or 510 connection.

All my atties, and pretty much all 22mm atties that will sit flush on the Nemmy are vented from the side though, so that's kind of a pointless feature for all but a few collectors who will have something else that will fit or the unlucky few who are stuck with a bottom-vented atomizer.

The problem I had with the top cap was a tiny bit of steel coming up past the AFC ring so nothing would quite sit flush. A little sandpaper took care of that. As a bonus, my AFC ring doesn't move anymore either. But I'm gonna get a hybrid adapter for it anyway, so again, moot point for me.

Sorry you've had so much trouble with yours. I was gonna buy the HCigar version myself but I got impatient and got this no-name from the B&M. Kinda glad I did. To be fair, it is the only mech mod I've ever owned but I've used plenty of others and have seen very little need to buy anything else except maybe a high-powered VW device.
 

sando7

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H-Cigar Copper Nemi in Hybrid Mode w/Tobh & Chuff-Top, hits like a champ

sando7-albums-misc-picture381918-h-cigar-copper-nemi-w-tobh-chuff-top.jpg
 

ukeman

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The Nemesis is one of THE most successful mech tubes ever... more sales than any model, and for good reason - there's hardly a mech tube available that has a perfect switch or top cap and the Nemi has the most user-friendly switch system because it also acts to snug the battery to the contacts.
the Brass Nemi hit the charts with the most conductive specs for a while ... lowest voltage drop, and even after a bunch of designs beat it by .001's of a volt, its still in the top 5 or so for conductivity. Meaning you get your batts worth out of each vape = hits hard.

The copper model is right up there too, and technically is not a clone because Atmo never built a copper Neme.
What's true is the Brass Nemi clone hits as good if not better than the original...lol.
And the magnet upgrade for the switch is a good idea.

If your switch goes bad after a while, what's $20 shipped from FT? Cheaper than trying to buy a new switch.

snap... if your switch gets hot, not a good sign. It could mean a short in the atomizer, or bad conductivity, but a good mech button should not heat up.
 
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sando7

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have both you mentioned and the buttons can be crunchy on both if you don't keep them cleaned, yet they both still hit very well.....now the StingrayX has a much better switch.

a clone that has really impressed me, well actually 2....are the Sir Lancalot and the FM Mec, very well designed and smooth switches.
 
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ukeman

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I don't really care anymore since I like regulated boxes more, but when i saw the Stingray I checked it out and every other post was talking about problems with the switch which was supposed to be an improvement over the Neme switch.... so i just stuck with the Nemi; still always keep one around.
 

rhean

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I have subohmed with a Cartel copper mod, a Launcher mod, and a brass m16 mod, all clones. Zero problems with crunchy or bad switches or with top caps, or with threads.

I was told to get a Nemmy for starters, but read the discussions on FT boards, and there were too many complaints on that switch.

imo get on FT. Type in mechanical mod. Find mods that have more than a few reviews, then read the discussions. Reviews are ok, but they're subjective. If a mod is in atm, the reviews will reflect that. Discussion is where the problems show up. If there's a crunchy button, people will be talking about it, offering fixes, etc. If the floating pin isn't floating, discussion will reflect it. imo stay away from anything where you see a pattern. One complaint could be user error. A pattern of complaints on the same issue, stay away.
 

Mrez

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Does anyone have a recommendation for a good mod that can easily handle sub-ohm vaping without getting hot?
I have a Lavafire Drawtube and the switch gets hot after a few hits (battery and tube itself is cool though - Sony VCT4 2100mah). Running Omega atty with dual 1.0 ohm coils (0.5 ohm)

I need something that's $50 or less - preferably around $35.

Thanks!

I've been subohming at .25 quads to .6 duals and everything in between on my Hcigar black Stingray X. Button needed some work to smooth it out, but it's really nice now, gotten a few compliments on it at a local B&M. The Hcigar goes for about 45ish, but get the stainless steel one, the black one rubs off. I;ve seen em for as low as 35$ elsewhere. I wasnt thrilled with my nemi but it was an emergency buy at the local shop. Tried to upgrade it with magnets and now get a hot button, so it's retired.
 
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