Best setup for RDA in 18350 mode?

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CloudZ

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I would build a 1.2-1.5 ohm single microcoil with 28 or 29 gauge if I was running a mechanical with an 18350. If you don't have the RDA yet, I would get a smaller one like an IGO-S due to its reduced chamber for more flavor. If you want to run dual coils, I would target the same resistance using 30 gauge (2.4-3.0 ohms per coil). Just don't go sub-ohm with any 18350. Also, I wouldn't be too concerned with battery life since a lower performance setup is just going to make you take longer drags more often.

That said, I find tank systems like a Kayfun or even a good clearomizer to provide better flavor and efficiency at higher resistances, which is simply because the chamber is minimized.
 

fjgotgame24

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What about airflow? Right now I have a .85 dual coil on an Igo-W with stock airholes. I think it works decent but like you mentioned I notice I have to hold down the fire button quite a bit to get even the lightest vapor which doesnt make the battery last that long. As far as clearomizers go, what would you recommend?
 

ImThatGuy

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Hope you understand how to build and what batteries are right to use especially with 18350. The only high discharge/amp 350 battery out there right now are efest purples that can do 10.5amps and AW IMR at 6amps. Even at 0.85 dual coil you're running about 5amps. Not much safety margin even if you use an AW or efest red.

In regards to holding the button for a long time, most likely because you're using a thin gauge wire for your coils. You may also be experiencing a voltage loss from the mod to the igo-w if the quality isn't great on your mod.

Drill the airhole a larger size from stock and see how it goes. If not satisfied, then drill a bit bigger. We can't say what's a perfect size, but increasing diameters would be best rather than go big or go home attitude.
 

CloudZ

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More airflow means more vapor production but less flavor. You should be getting at least decent vapor with your current setup, so I suspect something may be wrong such as a poor electrical connection or wire that is thicker than 28 gauge. You could try drilling out the IGO-W, but I would start small and gradually go bigger with the air holes. It is easy to drill them bigger, but not so easy to make them smaller. I run mine at 1.2 mm which is similar to a 1.6 mm (1/16") single air hole in draw restriction.

For clearos, I only use EVOD's and a mini Protank 2. There are a lot of newer ones out there and it is hard to say what you will like best.
 

CloudZ

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In regards to holding the button for a long time, most likely because you're using a thin gauge wire for your coils.
My thinking and experience on this is opposite. Thicker wire takes longer to heat up and fires cooler for a given wattage. You get more surface area, but it can't be efficiently used unless the coil gets hot enough. 28 gauge is good around 1 ohm per coil and anything thicker is only good for deeper sub-ohm. On a mech mod, anyway.
 

CloudZ

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Why is that? What does an RDA have to do with battery safety? Isn't that more to do with how low you go in resistance rather then the type of atty you use?
Regarding resistance, if you read above about the 18350 10.5 amp batteries, you can go to .7 or .8 comfortably
I was skeptical of the rating on the purple efest 18350, but I just found this Test/Review of Efest IMR18350 700mAh (Purple) 2014 . So I guess they are legit.

The key is to know your battery's true continuous discharge rating and stay under it.
 
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