Best Vape with $300 Budget
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I have a eleaf Istick 50 watt mod and a Eleaf MELO atomizer which is just like the Atlantis seems
to work good for me------------I would go to the Local Vape Shop and talk to them about starting
into the vape world. Just saying...
to work good for me------------I would go to the Local Vape Shop and talk to them about starting
into the vape world. Just saying...
SX Mini is a fantastic mod. You can spend less of coarse but if thats the one you want its a good one. Go big or go home!!!
Now for a tank the Subtank seems like a great start. Regular coils plus a rebuild able with an option for nickel. I don't have one and I'm on to RTA's now but seeing my friends with them I'm sorry I didn't go that route as I wasted alot of money on Nautilus tanks which are good starters but they don't allow you to grow like the Subtank.
I think an SX plus a couple batteries and a couple Subtanks could be gotten in the 300 range.
Now for a tank the Subtank seems like a great start. Regular coils plus a rebuild able with an option for nickel. I don't have one and I'm on to RTA's now but seeing my friends with them I'm sorry I didn't go that route as I wasted alot of money on Nautilus tanks which are good starters but they don't allow you to grow like the Subtank.
I think an SX plus a couple batteries and a couple Subtanks could be gotten in the 300 range.
I agree with the thought behind this suggestion. The hardware matters but there's lots of good hardware for a reasonable price.
The part that usually is the hardest is finding a juice that you like. Of course, that depends on whether you want good flavor or just want to chuck big clouds. If it's the latter, then you can just get a high power regulated mod with an RDA/RBA and vape 90-100% VG with low or no nicotine and minimal or no flavorings.
I can sell ya a way over priced set up that comes in at only $299.99...save ya some money that way 
The sx mini is an aggressive choice for your first mod. But if you have the money, its a great choice. Excellent board, rock solid build quality and a warrantee. Many of us started smaller and wound up with a drawer full of junk until we bought a higher end, quality mod. The sx mini will save you from that and is a great first mod IF you stick with vaping.
Batteries.... The only 3 I'd recommend are Samsung 25r, lg he2 or 4, or the Sony vtc4. (I guess thats 4....sorry) I dont suggest eBay, Amazon or fast tech for these. I buy from rtd or Illumn.
Tank....if you're just switching from cigarettes, I agree with Baditude. The Nautilus or Nautilus mini would be a good transformation from smoking. Nice draw and good flavor.
If you just want to blow clouds, throw a dart at the hundreds of new subtanks that hit the market and buy that one.
Batteries.... The only 3 I'd recommend are Samsung 25r, lg he2 or 4, or the Sony vtc4. (I guess thats 4....sorry) I dont suggest eBay, Amazon or fast tech for these. I buy from rtd or Illumn.
Tank....if you're just switching from cigarettes, I agree with Baditude. The Nautilus or Nautilus mini would be a good transformation from smoking. Nice draw and good flavor.
If you just want to blow clouds, throw a dart at the hundreds of new subtanks that hit the market and buy that one.
I concur on the subtank mini! Love it. Some leakage when ADVing. Quick clean takes care of it. Backup your more expensive mod with a Kanger K-Box. $15 - $20 bucks if you research. Great cheap vape! Up to 40 wattss. Do you have those imrens? I assume 20amp cont., 40 pulse (with those mAhs). I wonder if they hit well or are of good quality. My samsung 25rs hit slightly better than my lg he4s and way better than my efests. Always on the lookout for good batts.
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I say you are making good choices on your own thus far. Those IMREN's are nice batteries, I bought 4 with my IPV over the past weekend. A pair holds up all day. You can actually get temp control coils for both the Atlantis and the Subtank and the better choice between those 2 is debatable. I like them equally. I do agree though that you might want to get a Nautilus also as a Sub Ohm first vape might be a bit much.
The Nautilus, Atlantis, and Subtank all have stock coils available in nickel. They were "commissioned" by Vaporshark, so they all have the Vaporshark logo on the box. However, Kanger also came out with Subtank coils in nickel (no Vaporshark logo, but the wording on the box is in blue instead of red). Fasttech sells them and it is a lot cheaper (just over $10 for a box of 5 coils).
I would not recommend the IPV4. I have one in addition to the Vaporshark rDNA40 and the SX Mini M Class. I have doubts as to whether temp control actually works with the IPV4. In temp control mode on the IPV4, if I chain vape or take a longer hit or use a thicker juice (higher VG), I do get dry (burnt) hits on a consistent basis. And this is with the temp setting on the IPV4 well below 400 degrees. With the SX Mini set at 400 degrees and the Vaporshark rDNA40 set at 450 degrees, I have not gotten a single dry hit at all.
With the IPV4, I am using an Atlantis 1 with the nickel coil and I have to keep it around 20 joules to avoid dry hits. This results in much reduced vapor production and muted flavor. Increasing it to 25 joules will give me better vapor and more pronounced flavor, but increases the chance of a dry hit. At 30 joules, if I chain vape, by the 5th or 6th vape I will get a nasty burning in my throat when that dry hit comes up. With the SX Mini, I am using a Subtank Mini with the nickel coil and I use it between 20-25 joules. With the Vaporshark rDNA40, I am using an Atlantis 2 with the nickel coil and I have it cranked to the mod's maximum of 40 watts and I can chain vape it until the point where the bottom of the tank is hot to the touch and I will get not a single dry hit. If anything, the juice gets heated up too much to the point where it starts to lose flavor and it continues chugging along. I can even suck on that thing for upwards of more than 10 seconds (this is pretty much my physical limit of how long I can inhale without exhaling), have the temp protection warning flashing and won't get a single dry hit.
If you're going to buy the SX Mini M Class then it is highly recommended that you get a 30A continuous discharge battery for it. I know a lot of people will put 20A batteries in them and they do work, but the manufacturer recommends a 30A battery and I would always follow the manufacturer's recommendations when dealing with a near $200 mod. As for the SX Mini M Class itself, I wish it had been my first mod. I probably would never have bought anything else.
That basically gives you 3 choices.
Sony VTC4 (Beware of fakes)
X-Star 30A (A rewrapped authentic VTC4, at least you know it will be real)
Orbtronic SX30 (IMO the best 30A battery, but a bit on the expensive side. You buy them directly from Orbtronic)
Those are the only REAL 30A continuous discharge batteries on the market. Do NOT buy purple Efest batteries even if they say 35A. The 35A is the pulse rating, they are really only 20A continuous discharge batteries.
Others have already covered the tank and nickel coils pretty well. I would also recommend looking into getting a fairly cheap single coil RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer) and some nickel wire at some point and start learning how to make your own coils. It's not something you will need right away, but rebuilding is almost certainly something you'll want to get into at some point, and a decent single coil RDA is a good tool to use to learn on. That way you're not throwing away a whole tank full of juice if you mess up and changing coils and wicks can be done in minutes without having to worry about tearing a whole tank apart and cleaning it. The subtank and subtank mini come with rebuildable decks so once you learn how you can rebuild on those without having to buy a new tank, but a small RDA is easier to learn on.
Think of it like buying a fender from a junk yard to practice painting on before you start painting your car. Nothing fancy, nothing expensive, just something cheap and basic to learn on.
That basically gives you 3 choices.
Sony VTC4 (Beware of fakes)
X-Star 30A (A rewrapped authentic VTC4, at least you know it will be real)
Orbtronic SX30 (IMO the best 30A battery, but a bit on the expensive side. You buy them directly from Orbtronic)
Those are the only REAL 30A continuous discharge batteries on the market. Do NOT buy purple Efest batteries even if they say 35A. The 35A is the pulse rating, they are really only 20A continuous discharge batteries.
Others have already covered the tank and nickel coils pretty well. I would also recommend looking into getting a fairly cheap single coil RDA (Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer) and some nickel wire at some point and start learning how to make your own coils. It's not something you will need right away, but rebuilding is almost certainly something you'll want to get into at some point, and a decent single coil RDA is a good tool to use to learn on. That way you're not throwing away a whole tank full of juice if you mess up and changing coils and wicks can be done in minutes without having to worry about tearing a whole tank apart and cleaning it. The subtank and subtank mini come with rebuildable decks so once you learn how you can rebuild on those without having to buy a new tank, but a small RDA is easier to learn on.
Think of it like buying a fender from a junk yard to practice painting on before you start painting your car. Nothing fancy, nothing expensive, just something cheap and basic to learn on.
If you can afford it, get the sx mini because it will serve you well into the future. And it does go down to 5W so it will tootle nicely
Actually, I don't think they're that expensive. I bought 4 of them and they only cost me about $11 each.
I really wouldn't buy a Yihi having just 300 bucks. I'd go for (somewhat) reliable things like the Kanger Subox (some places are already shipping) AND a Heatvape Invader (temp control, quite nice) for starters. Sony VTC4 or LG are great batteries for these two mods. And as toppers go I'd do two tanks and a dripper such as a Tugboat V2 and a Nautilus. This way you'll be covered and you'll have some rebuildables to start messing with, plus the ability of running Ni coils in the Subox atty and the Nautilus.
Guys I already bought 3 batteries before telling me I should get a 30A
Bought one LG 18650 2500 mah and two Samsung 18650 2500 mah. IMO I think with these 3 batteries I should be fine.
I already purchased my SX mini m class with the subtank mini and also bought the pack of 5 nickel coils
Bought one LG 18650 2500 mah and two Samsung 18650 2500 mah. IMO I think with these 3 batteries I should be fine.
I already purchased my SX mini m class with the subtank mini and also bought the pack of 5 nickel coils
If you're planning to use nickel coils in temp control mode, either battery will work fine. In temp control mode, it maxes out at 50 joules (roughly 50 watts). With a 0.15 ohm nickel coil (the resistance of the Subtank Mini nickel OCC) the joule limit means that the mod will operate at 2.74 volts. 2.74 volts divided by 0.15 ohm means that at the max, it will only draw 18.27 amps (2.74 volts divided by 0.15 ohms).
Batteries... VTC's are mostly fake now. So I recommend getting Samsung INR batteries (Light blue color, 2500 Mah,) Or LG, Red color.
As for tanks,
lots of people like tanks that can be rebuilded, and RDA's are great to get in to as well.
I use a Nitecore i4 Charger, but if you have that much money, I suggest getting an Xtar charger with an LED screen.
If you need a place to buy all these, Scroll down the forum for a list of reputable vendors. Many of them sell hardware in addition to juice and before getting supplier status, ECF makes sure they are all legit. And awesome.
As for tanks,
lots of people like tanks that can be rebuilded, and RDA's are great to get in to as well.
I use a Nitecore i4 Charger, but if you have that much money, I suggest getting an Xtar charger with an LED screen.
If you need a place to buy all these, Scroll down the forum for a list of reputable vendors. Many of them sell hardware in addition to juice and before getting supplier status, ECF makes sure they are all legit. And awesome.
Vtc5 may be fake but there is an abundant supply of authentic vtc4 illumn,hoosierecig and rtd vapor are just a few that have legit vtc4
SX Mini M Class and Subtank Mini is a kick-... first set-up and I own both. There are tons of helpful people around here to answer questions but also check out/support local vape shops. SOME people that own/work at them can be super helpful when first starting out and there is nothing like hands-on, in person communication. You will love the mod and tank, be careful and have fun!
You know, with a $300 budget, I would go with the IPV4, a Freemax Starre tank, and I'd probably go with the Council of Vapor Aris Pro RDA as well. Ni200 wire, and Vaper's Choice Cotton. 2 LG HE4's. Then you have $80 to spend on juice/another mod/a battery charger.
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