Best wattage for Vaping

[ClippinWings]

Can you share any combinations you use? Actually I'm trying different flavors and wattage and some ideas are welcome.

As others have stated... Super Low Resistance vaping using Sub-1 Ohm coils has inherent dangers...

It's not even possible without building your own atomizer coils.

DEFINITELY ADVANCED

Also, Don't confuse Watts with Heat... It works for consumer atomizers... but when you get into rebuildables everything changes... my 17 watt vape is much cooler than what I used to get from an eGo with a 1.5 ohm @ 7 watts.


For those who asked...
I'm currently using:
NZonic V1 (really any quality mechanical mod will do)
AW IMR 18650 battery
IGO L Rebuildable Atomizer
28gauge Kanthal A1 wire coiled to, as mentioned, 0.8 Ohms
3mm Silica Wick, doubled

 

[ClippinWings]

I'll quote this handy disclaimer:



Right now I'm vaping MBV "Cinnamon Roll" with my morning coffee. 9mg, 30/70 pg-vg ratio.
Fresh battery @ 4.2v - Smok RDA "Octopus" with hand rolled wick and coil at 0.9 ohms. (4.2 x 4.2)/0.9 = 19.6 watts
I'll still be getting around 16 watts with this combination before I swap out the battery for a fresh one in several hours, usually around 3.8 volts.

Very smooth, cool vapor with mountains of flavor. I just made my entire 23" computer monitor completely disappear with my last "puff"

Oh, you're pulling the "Fresh battery" numbers LOL

In that case... I'm at 22 Watts.

But... SUPER OFF TOPIC.

We both know, that's theoretical... since Voltage drop brings it down.
I just did my math earlier at 3.7 Volts to make it easier for people to understand.

 

[Oktyabr]

Oh, you're pulling the "Fresh battery" numbers LOL

In that case... I'm at 22 Watts.

But... SUPER OFF TOPIC.

We both know, that's theoretical... since Voltage drop brings it down.
I just did my math earlier at 3.7 Volts to make it easier for people to understand.

All I know is that a fresh battery gives me the quickest response and most vapor production. I try to build my coils so a fresh battery is *almost* too hot a vape. A few puffs off it and it settles down and then I don't switch it again until it starts feeling a bit too cool or the flavor becomes a bit too weak. Tossing that battery in my vamo for testing says I usually hit mine from "fresh" down to around 3.7-3.8 volts before they go back on the charger. As you know sub-ohm produces wattage so far above a mid-range battery like an eGo that there might be very little *noticable* difference between 4.0 and 3.7 volts, etc. Even at 3.7: (3.7 x 3.7)/0.9 = 15.21 watts, which is still pretty respectable.

Sigelei #8, lightly modded for improved conductivity (minimal voltage drop), 18650 mode.
Smok RDA with extra 1/16th air hole in cap, fatter o-rings for tighter seal
4/5 wrap 28 gauge kanthal A1 around triple wicks of 3mm silica for 0.9 ohms
I like my 1.1 ohm ss mesh AGA-T2 as well.

Not as nice as your Nzonic, but I now have absolutely ZERO desire for a Provari... or a cigarette!

 

[ClippinWings]

Sigelei #8, lightly modded for improved conductivity (minimal voltage drop), 18650 mode.
Smok RDA with extra 1/16th air hole in cap, fatter o-rings for tighter seal
4/5 wrap 28 gauge kanthal A1 around triple wicks of 3mm silica for 0.9 ohms
I like my 1.1 ohm ss mesh AGA-T2 as well.

makes sense... my doubled 3mm, ends up with 6/7 wrap and 0.8

Might have to try triple wicks...

Not as nice as your Nzonic, but I now have absolutely ZERO desire for a Provari... or a cigarette!

Yeah, The idea of a cigarette is pretty funny now...

and thanks for the compliments, but a properly modified #8 can be a pretty damn potent fog machine, for sure.

 

[obsidianchao]

Top coil I like 6.05 watts (3.3v,1.8O or 3.8v,2.4O) but bottom coil I like it hotter, 7-ish watts (usually 4.1/4.2v,2.4O).Anything at or below 8 watts and above 4 on a commercial device should be great. Watts are (V^2)/r. Or use ohmslawcalculator.com . Great website. You can get crazy watts on an RBA if you have a device that doesn't have an amperage limit.

 

[DrMA]

As others have said, you choose your own power level depending on personal preference, equipment setup and juice. I only use VV or VW devices and change the power level depending on all these factors. I may sometimes vape at 7W, and other times at 27W, but mostly, my personal sweet spot tends to be in the 12-15W range. All my attys are rebuildable tank systems and I generally use coils in the 1.0-1.6Ω range with stainless mesh wicks and 50/50 PG/VG juice.

 

[ClippinWings]

As others have said, you choose your own power level depending on personal preference, equipment setup and juice. I only use VV or VW devices and change the power level depending on all these factors. I may sometimes vape at 7W, and other times at 27W, but mostly, my personal sweet spot tends to be in the 12-15W range. All my attys are rebuildable tank systems and I generally use coils in the 1.0-1.6Ω range with stainless mesh wicks and 50/50 PG/VG juice.

Wow... what VV device does 27W?

That's over 5amps!

 

[tppp]

Variable voltage is all about playing with the voltage until it's just right for the juice your are vaping and the coil it's being vaped upon. It's kind of like TV volume. I like it turned up a little and my wife turns it down. I think it's a result of my standing in front of a drummer all those years.

I'd agree with this. Takes a good long while to find the sweet spot with vw though

 

[USinchains]

¿Not knowing what a VWPV is makes me unallowed to at 8+ Watts?

The chip in a variable wattage PV should take voltage drop into consideration and read off the actual wattage of the circuit. You can't accurately calculate wattage by using only the voltage coming from the battery and the resistance of the atomizer, under load as in while the mod and atomizer are attached and firing, the delivered voltage drops on average around a half volt.

 

[USinchains]

Even at 3.7: (3.7 x 3.7)/0.9 = 15.21 watts, which is still pretty respectable.

That's a little more reasonable than your first calculation. On a full IMR, a Smok RDA at 1.3ohms was causing a .4v drop on a modified Natural. Sub ohm is going to cause an even greater drop. Of course, everyone's setup is different and this is just an example that a sub ohm RDA is not going to allow the full power from the battery into the circuit.