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Thank you tceight for all the work and your sharing "Kitchen WTA extraction method ".
Thank you slope and kinabaloo for sharing the steps with what you were doing and seeing.
Thank you kinabaloo for the pictures to help know what to look for.
Not sure that I have the confidence to try it yet, but it has been encouraging to follow along with you.

I even took pictures or the bicarbonate on the baking tray :)

But later thought too boring to post, even though nicely lit and framed - lol

But we'll get a shiny foolproof insructional together once all the pitfalls and tips are known.

Always great to get feedback - thanks for that :)
 
As an observer, it is exciting watching your reaction to your batch of cookies kinabaloo!

"Didn't give it a thought that it might do what we had always hoped it would do." LOL

Nothing is to boring to post for some of us! Remember "a picture is worth a thousand words".

Just for you ...

wta6.png


Deep space Hubble telescope view of the edge of time ?

No ... it's 'bicarbonate on baking tray, 2011' Tate Modern, here I come ;)
 
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Hi kinabaloo,

I've been puffing on my mix all morning - and I must say it's doing nothing for me :(

It tastes OK, quite nice in fact. But no cigarette effect... I'd even say the opposite is true as i keep feeling like I want to return to my regular hi-nic juice.

I must have got something wrong in the process.

Maybe you just need a combination of the two; most people likely would.

That is, it is likely quite low in nic compared to what you are used to. Have you done a rough calculation ?

~~

At the last stage, pretty much all the color transferred to the water/VG leaving the oil bland in color, right ?
 
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Yes the water had a strong colour (a sort of browny red). The oil above it was a pale yellow murky colour. You were right about the suspension - no further separation happened overnight.

In my case the solids have settled to the bottom of the oil and are presumably soap solids. I can't think what they would be in your case.

~~~

With the tobacco I used, standard stuff, I don't think i could have used any less carbonate solution - any less and it would not have reached all the tobacco. Having both an oil and a water layer after squeeze out the tobacco is no problem at all - just take the wanted oil from the top.

~~~

Have you mixed up a WTA / nicotine blend ?
 

slopes

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Yes - I think maybe I was too cautious in wetting the tobacco powder. tceight's original method of adding "1 drop per gram" seemed way out to me at that stage (I ended up adding about 6 drops per gram and even that barely dampened it).

NOTE : I'm just separating out my main solution - which is much clearer and has more to play with. Once this is done I will experiment with a WTA / nic blend.
 
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Yes - I think maybe I was too cautious in wetting the tobacco powder. tceight's original method of adding "1 drop per gram" seemed way out to me at that stage (I ended up adding about 6 drops per gram and even that barely dampened it).

NOTE : I'm just separating out my main solution - which is much clearer and has more to play with. Once this is done I will experiment with a WTA / nic blend.

I think in this regard, I got the amounts right - no runoff but tobacoo well coated in oil/carbonate solution. And active mashing rather than long soak. Simply draw off oil layer after the squeeze out.

Just remember to use mineral oil !
 
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JohnKing

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Are you guys drying the tobacco before starting? I do some MYO and know that if you leave tobacco out to dry you could probably get it to an almost dust-like state before starting the process. Would a good drying help in getting more extract out of the leaf or are the desired alkaloids in the oil/moisture content of the leaf?
 
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Are you guys drying the tobacco before starting? I do some MYO and know that if you leave tobacco out to dry you could probably get it to an almost dust-like state before starting the process. Would a good dry help in getting more extract or are the desired alkaloids in the oil/moisture content of the leaf?

I used the tobacco as was - pretty dry already.

I'm happy with the extraction I did and have no plans to switch to powder form or more finely cut it; I think mashing while soaking does the trick just fine and leaves the tobacco easier to leave behind.

The alkaloids would mostly be in salt form. Drying further first might lose some of the freebase form content, not sure; don't think it would be helpful, though i can see reasoning that it would uptake the carbonate solution more (and hold it).

The first step freebases the salts so that these organic molecules dissolve in the oil.

Am preparing a second go, with mineral oil this time.
 

slopes

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hi slopes - how's it going ?

I'm gonna have a second try tonight. I've got some regular ciggies to use.

I will use a bit more water on the first stage.

One thing I would like to know - is it possible to boil/simmer the extracted WTA water at the penultimate stage? I would like to do this to reduce it a bit whilst not losing any of its contents. On my last run I added quite a bit of water to the PG to get the wTA in... but it made everything too wet for my atty. I think you had the same issue kinabaloo.
 

slopes

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Are you saying simmering is OK but not boiling (ie don't allow it to reach boiling point)?

I've just ground up the real ciggies and the power is much finer (looks like snuff). I think part of the problem I had yesterday was caused by choosing rolling tobacco to start with - that stuff is a lot more moist and oily and I think this hampered the process when the water was added.
 
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