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It might help with the math a little.
For example, 20g grams of fresh cigarette tobacco is only about 16.5g of actual tobacco (dry weight). Pipe tobacco less still.
NAS should be ~17.5g.
But in a process such as the one described in this thread, its probably for the best to round up anyways. Plus with so much of the math in the dark, you'll end up relying on your self-regulation of nicotine (& related) more than available numbers to estimate yield.
Although... When I would make my own stuff, I would add enough water to liquefy the tobacco dust. I would then add the alkali, stir,and (slowly) evaporate the water until dry. Took a few hours, and wasn't really necessary, but the results seemed an improvement.
Cigarette Lighter Fuel idea (household petroleum).
Once the tobacco/carbonate solution/oil mix has been made and left to sit for a while, can the mixture be soaked in liquid lighter fuel (not the gas one). This is a very pure petroleum and evaporates very rapidly leaving no trace of itself (ie: zero greasy deposits etc).
I was thinking that the whole mix could be made liquid by adding the lighter fuel, pressed, and then the fuel would quickly evaporate off from the oil.
It would initially thin the oil - but presumably evaporate quickly too, returning the oil to its prior state?
Once the tobacco/carbonate solution/oil mix has been made and left to sit for a while, can the mixture be soaked in liquid lighter fuel (not the gas one). This is a very pure petroleum and evaporates very rapidly leaving no trace of itself (ie: zero greasy deposits etc).
I was thinking that the whole mix could be made liquid by adding the lighter fuel, pressed, and then the fuel would quickly evaporate off from the oil.
It would initially thin the oil - but presumably evaporate quickly too, returning the oil to its prior state?
I added more carbonate solution at the start but less hot oil. The garlic press method now does not work so well. Very little liquid gets extracted and the nylon bag bursts. 
Yes my mix is dryer than yesterday. I keep remembering tceight's comment that over-saturating the mixture will result in a less effective eventual concentrate.
Thinking more about lighter fluid (Naphtha), would this method work?
1) Heat and simmer the ground tobacco in a sodium carbonate solution. Reduce.
2) Filter off liquid and throw away cooked tobacco.
3) Place filtered liquid in bottle.
4) Add 10% lighter fluid and shake
5) Let separate. Remove lighter fluid (collect in a sealed container)
6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 several times
7) Add a quantity of VG to lighter fluid and shake.
8) Pour into saucer, Let mix separate and allow lighter fluid to completely evaporate.
9) Vape.
1) Heat and simmer the ground tobacco in a sodium carbonate solution. Reduce.
2) Filter off liquid and throw away cooked tobacco.
3) Place filtered liquid in bottle.
4) Add 10% lighter fluid and shake
5) Let separate. Remove lighter fluid (collect in a sealed container)
6) Repeat steps 4 and 5 several times
7) Add a quantity of VG to lighter fluid and shake.
8) Pour into saucer, Let mix separate and allow lighter fluid to completely evaporate.
9) Vape.
Maybe a little. The vapor pressure of nicotine at 60*C (where I evaporated typically) is only something like .576 mmHg, compared to 148.936 mmHg for water.
What brand is the Baby Oil? My shop only had 'Johnson's' - which is perfumed.
I got the lighter fluid though - and am now about to try that method. I think on stage 8, I will add the lighter fluid to some acidified water and afterwards mix the water with the VG. I'm not sure how well VG and lighter fluid will keep from emulsifying if mixed (e-liquids are flammable).
I got the lighter fluid though - and am now about to try that method. I think on stage 8, I will add the lighter fluid to some acidified water and afterwards mix the water with the VG. I'm not sure how well VG and lighter fluid will keep from emulsifying if mixed (e-liquids are flammable).
Slopes... if you aren't willing to drink/eat it... then why would you consider using it to make something vapable?
My intention was to use only food grade materials at ALL steps in the process, and to never have a nicotine concentration that is hazardous. If you want to try alternative non-polar solvents etc., there are lots of options. None will be found in the kitchen though.
To each his own, but I wouldn't endorse it. While I've only a rudimentary understanding of the chemistry involved, it's not something I would ever try.
on another note... wondering about the difference in kins/slopes batches. Is it possible that the citric acid solution was too concentrated, thereby limiting it's capacity to take up the alkaloids? In Kins, it fizzed... meaning he had carbonate, and a lot of the acid he added would have been neutralized, thereby providing more dilute acidic water for the alkaloids to dissolve in.
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