BF Mods by Custom-Classic

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The.Drifter

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Ti-CC got a new hat today, a Ti Flav 22 atty :)

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Of course I had to make a custom drip tip for it because the included ones are waaaay too short for my liking ;)

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build deck is also perfect for my 0.3 ohm clapton :D
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Its pretty similar in appearance to the Entheon Im running on the SS-CC, Im really diggin both attys :thumbs:

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Rossum

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Are there any helpful instructions or hints for the care and maintenance of the aluminum model and the 510.
Aluminum mod body: A bit of metal polish (I like Simichrome) will take off any "patina" that develops. It will also knock down the brushed finish somewhat. To restore that, you'll need some really fine Scotchbrite or Beartex sheets. Another thing that works well are Sunshine Polishing Cloths. Once cleaned up, apply some wax. Renaissance Wax is popular.

510: Assuming you got the stainless steel center pin, there's nothing really to maintain. Maybe polish up the end of the brass knurled "nut" where it makes contact against the firing pin. To be honest, I'm not a fan of those knurled brass nuts and replace 'em with conventional 6-32 stainless nut.

IMO, the most important maintenance is to polish up the silver contact on the firing pin. I use Simichrome for that. Keep it shiny!

0wgcnDG.jpg
 

CMD-Ky

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Thanks for the information, I will get some Simichrome and I have a container of Renaissance Wax (great stuff). I did not realize a need to polish the knurled nut, I'll do that. On Reo I used a white, rather soft, eraser to clean the silvercontacts but I will use a little Simichrome on that also. My 510 looks like yours but for the conventional nut.
Thanks again and who is that handsome enabler in that silver contact?

Aluminum mod body: A bit of metal polish (I like Simichrome) will take off any "patina" that develops. It will also knock down the brushed finish somewhat. To restore that, you'll need some really fine Scotchbrite or Beartex sheets. Another thing that works well are Sunshine Polishing Cloths. Once cleaned up, apply some wax. Renaissance Wax is popular.

510: Assuming you got the stainless steel center pin, there's nothing really to maintain. Maybe polish up the end of the brass knurled "nut" where it makes contact against the firing pin. To be honest, I'm not a fan of those knurled brass nuts and replace 'em with conventional 6-32 stainless nut.

IMO, the most important maintenance is to polish up the silver contact on the firing pin. I use Simichrome for that. Keep it shiny!

0wgcnDG.jpg
 

Rossum

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I did not realize a need to polish the knurled nut, I'll do that.
I don't know that there's a "need" to do that on a regular basis.

On Reo I used a white, rather soft, eraser to clean the silvercontacts but I will use a little Simichrome on that also.
I didn't know REO used silver contacts.

My 510 looks like yours but for the conventional nut.
The one in my pic is fairly old-school, an FDV insert with a "vented" screw. The newer ones (which I assume yours has) are nicer, with a longer center-pin that isn't threaded the whole way down, as well as the o-ring up top. The FDV had radial air channels instead. The newer ones are also machined in the US, while I'm pretty sure the FDVs were done in the far east.

Let me see if I can grab a pic of them side-by-side.
[time passes]
Old on the left, new on the right:
JWDQEAi.jpg


Note the s/s nut has replaced the long knurled brass nut on the new one. Two reasons I do that: I can crank it down tighter, and it gives the tubing room for some bite on the threads, which keeps it from popping off. I realize some people like it to pop right off and back on, but personally, I do not.
 

CMD-Ky

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My 510 is the newer version with a longer smooth feeding screw.

You are correct, Reo is not silver. I used the soft rubber non-abrasive eraser on the Reo firing pin, which, if I remember rightly is a copper with beryllium.

Perhaps because it is new or due to the soft bottle, I have noticed the tube popping off

I don't know that there's a "need" to do that on a regular basis.


I didn't know REO used silver contacts.


The one in my pic is fairly old-school, an FDV insert with a "vented" screw. The newer ones (which I assume yours has) are nicer, with a longer center-pin that isn't threaded the whole way down, as well as the o-ring up top. The FDV had radial air channels instead. The newer ones are also machined in the US, while I'm pretty sure the FDVs were done in the far east.

Let me see if I can grab a pic of them side-by-side.
[time passes]
Old on the left, new on the right:
JWDQEAi.jpg


Note the s/s nut has replaced the long knurled brass nut on the new one. Two reasons I do that: I can crank it down tighter, and it gives the tubing room for some bite on the threads, which keeps it from popping off. I realize some people like it to pop right off and back on, but personally, I do not.
 

classwife

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Hi @penguiness :)
Having a busy day - working from home I am doing way more than I did at the office !
But...I am getting 3 offices cleaned up of their messes...telling myself to not get frustrated at them :lol:

You ok ?
 

penguiness

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Those productive days do leave you with a sense of satisfaction at the end of it all :)
I work from home most of the time. Have too much to do, so cannot afford time lost for travel. But I am content with the arrangement!
I am doing well, thank you :)
 
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