WAFSICMFF...lol
Big Tanks Blow Unless You Like Vaping Boiled Out sludge Juice.
- Thread starter WharfRat1976
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Yeah, I'm gonna call BS on that.
60ml of mothers milk and zero gunk nor discoloration?
Yeah right.
Don't speak phone so wasted on me - lol
Look, this thread has degraded enough. Lets skip the Name calling and S.A. comments and get this back on track.
You posted a Beautiful pic of a Giant Clearomizer (Nautilus) Built nothing like a well machined Tank. Yes these and all the Clearomizers I own will gunk up. Even the piddly 1.4Ml Evods.
Has nothing to do with Volume it has to do the type of e-liquids used. The amount of flavoring and how pure it is. the more coloring and Sweeteners or Natural ingredients an e-liquid has the more it will Gunk up.
A Lot of DIYers do Extracts and they can gunk up a Carto in a single fill.
If you care to elaborate on your actual builds.
Maybe post a Pic or two of your Builds
Give a few specs on your Vaping preferences - Ohms/Watts
Maybe others could understand why you are having issues they do not experience.
It seems stupid to keep calling people idiotic and offering nothing to substantiate your claims.
The coil was black, but not "gunked". What I define as gunk is buildup, like that POS Kayfun will do after 3ml of roasting itself with its godawful airflow. When I pulled the cotton wicks out, they were only slightly browned.
No discoloration of the liquid is what I'm referring to, in response to the idea that all tank users are vaping sludge.
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I usually put 25-30ml through my RTA before rebuilding it and it doesn't look half as bad as I would expect it to. For darker/net juice I'll rebuild every 3-4 days.
I use Ekowool with my coils around 1.3-1.4 ohms or ~9watts regulated. Seems to be enough with the chimney style bottom coil tanks.
I use Ekowool with my coils around 1.3-1.4 ohms or ~9watts regulated. Seems to be enough with the chimney style bottom coil tanks.
I will post a pic after I have vaped 2 mls of the 4 mls I put in. Yes, I cleaned the gunk off the fill hole before I filled. The overall juice is already discoloring. The coil firing at 1.1 ohms so hardly a hot build and yes, at the base of the wick channel holes you can see darker back washed juice adding to the discoloration.
Have you tried using thinner wire and/or angling the coil so you get shorter legs? That coil looks like it has a lot of lag and heat retention. I.e you put a lot more heat in there than what is required to atomizer liquids. That heat has to go somewhere.
Very nice pictures, by the way.
Very nice pictures, by the way.
Had that problem with Vivi Nova's back in the day, but my KFL never even gets warm on the outside with a 1.5+ ohm coil, and the juice never darkens like the Vivi's did, either.
3 mls vaped. There is about 1ml left. Juice used was Halo Tribeca, 6mg of nic. The flavor profile difference is big. The KGD wick looks new just like a rayon wick. The coil shows moderate useage. If this build was a .4 or .6 the burn factor would have been worse. I think it is a combo of wick and coil backwash into the tank as well as chimney heat. The discoloration is pretty obvious.
I've tried every coil imaginaeable. The coil has lag due to the higher resistance as well. The legs are pulled tight to the mount holes. If it heats up faster it heats up hotter and I think the result would be more juice discoloration. Good thought though. I guess people are cool with vaping burnt degraded juice...or selling RTAs to those that do.
There is nothing dictating that a 0.9 ohm coil needs to have any lag. It's not all about resistance. You can make a 0.9 ohm coil heat up so fast it snaps before you realize you've pushed the button. It's just as much about the amount of metal you're trying to heat with the resulting wattage. My 28 awg 0.8 ohm coils heat up instantly, and that's with a mesh wick. If I made, say a 24 awg coil with the same resistance, it would take considerably more time to heat up and cool down. And that's what I believe is happening in your case. You're spending a whole lot of power heating up your atty. You want your heat energy to dissipate as much as possible in the act of atomizing your liquids, not slowly heatsink its way through your atty.
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WattWick, the juice degrades more with a hotter build. It makes no difference how expeditiously the coil fires. As I have said, I think the juice degrades more with a hotter build. You are also agreeing with the notion that the heat of the build, whatever it is, is dissipated through the chimney thus degrading the juice.
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Not on its own, no. But lag an heat retention is an indicator of how much energy is spent on heating coils rather than liquids.
Not sure how many other ways I am able to put this. We're just running in circles at this point. I believe you have been given all the clues you need to solve your puzzle. Take it or leave it.
Just to illustrate;
You can put 15 watts into a coil that starts producing vapor immediately. Or you can put 15 watts into a coil that needs 2 seconds to warm up before it starts producing significant vapor. If you take a 2 second draw after vapor production has started, you have put 15 watts per second for 2 seconds into the first setup, and 4 seconds worth of 15 watts of power into the second. That's twice the amount of heat to achieve the same goal. Heat that needs to go somewhere.
You can put 15 watts into a coil that starts producing vapor immediately. Or you can put 15 watts into a coil that needs 2 seconds to warm up before it starts producing significant vapor. If you take a 2 second draw after vapor production has started, you have put 15 watts per second for 2 seconds into the first setup, and 4 seconds worth of 15 watts of power into the second. That's twice the amount of heat to achieve the same goal. Heat that needs to go somewhere.
I think WattWick is trying to say that the faster you get the liquid to it's vaporization temperature, the less time it spends at a temp that lends itself more to boiling/carmelization, and thus, discoloration.
Also, the faster that temp is reached the less time the chimney gets spent being heated. Instead of steady heat radiating for 2 seconds preheat + 4 second puff + 2 second cool down, it's just a small burst of heat for about 4.5 seconds.
Also, the faster that temp is reached the less time the chimney gets spent being heated. Instead of steady heat radiating for 2 seconds preheat + 4 second puff + 2 second cool down, it's just a small burst of heat for about 4.5 seconds.
I get the cleanest flavor from dripping a simple 510 atty. An HH357 holds 4-5 drops easily, and it is ALL within close proximity to the coil. But the first puff tastes like the last. You'd think in such a close proximity to the coil, that would be counter intuitive. So what's the solution to keep your juice from turning to sludge?
Sludge is probably an embellishment. It discolor and degrades. There is no solution. Anyone that doesn't think their juice is degrading is wrong imo.
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