Why not split the difference an use 29g kanthal. Easier to work with than the 30g, ramps up faster than the 28g.
And here I thought I was the only one who uses the odd wires. 27awg was my sweet spot for a single wire build for a lotta years.
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And here I thought I was the only one who uses the odd wires. 27awg was my sweet spot for a single wire build for a lotta years.
I generally use twisted pair wire (txp). For that case, after a little dry burn/realignment (removing any hot spots), I'll often recheck the screw tightness.
Agreed. I'm using 28g nowadays. But I really liked 29g for those tiny 19 and 16 mm MTL atties of yesteryear.
<-e-liquid SpoutWatched all videos. Will watch again.
Lost track of how many times I've recoiled & rewicked this 16mm Topfill. Built. 2.0 28awg 11.51 wraps, 30awg 7-8 wraps 1.8 ohms
Anyone Here Build This $11.45 Dvarw MTL RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 2ml / stainless steel + PEI / 16mm diameter at FastTech - Free Shipping
Had one successful build without leaking that lasted 1Day. Going to watch more wicking videos & leave it wicked w/o Liquid, Til I see how these other Dvarws respond to me. That big airflow under Tank Base & on the side, can it be closed, adjusted? Its a good vape if you can get it to hold E-Liquid. Warning Do Not Leave This Tank on Your MOD. I wasted 10ml E-Liquid
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If your tank is leaking like that, then your wicking is the problem. I can't tell you what's wrong with your wicking since I don't own that tank, but it's your wicking without question.
You may want to mix up some unflavored 0mg juice while you learn to build so you aren't wasting nic and flavoring.
Also, I can't see very well from your picture, but your coil seems to be all jumbled up. You may want to consider getting a coil master coiling jig at some point. Make making nice coils very easy.
This should have nothing to do with your leaking problem, BTW. Just an observation and suggestion.
This should have nothing to do with your leaking problem, BTW. Just an observation and suggestion.
On the dvarw dl fl, I clip the wick just slightly past the lip of the peek piece, maybe 1/8"+.
The wick within the coil should be snug, you feel a little resistance pulling it through.
Fluff the wick with a pair of tweezers. Don't thin it out too much.
Then use a small flat head screwdriver, push the wick inside the peek cap and nudge it so the cut ends are showing a bit through the wick holes.
If you look at the two wick inlets on the peek cap, you should see wick filling the holes. You aren't trying to pack it densely, but you want the space filled, no obvious gaps.
The wick within the coil should be snug, you feel a little resistance pulling it through.
Fluff the wick with a pair of tweezers. Don't thin it out too much.
Then use a small flat head screwdriver, push the wick inside the peek cap and nudge it so the cut ends are showing a bit through the wick holes.
If you look at the two wick inlets on the peek cap, you should see wick filling the holes. You aren't trying to pack it densely, but you want the space filled, no obvious gaps.
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@Fstop, try a 2.5mm ID for the coil. It'll help to shorten the length and can help reduce leaking/seeping drastically by allowing more to be left in the tails of the wicking.
One MTL RTA that I have heard mentioned around a lot is the Doggystyle, folks love it and it's one of the easier RTA's to work with.
If you want other possible ideas as well, you could look into RDTA's. As they're the easiest type of RBA's to work with, as they're a chimera between an RTA and an RDA. And because of their design you don't get airlocking happening and they don't leak quite as much due to the build deck being above the liquid reservoir.
One MTL RTA that I have heard mentioned around a lot is the Doggystyle, folks love it and it's one of the easier RTA's to work with.
If you want other possible ideas as well, you could look into RDTA's. As they're the easiest type of RBA's to work with, as they're a chimera between an RTA and an RDA. And because of their design you don't get airlocking happening and they don't leak quite as much due to the build deck being above the liquid reservoir.
Thank you. Wanted to work a 2.5 ID Coil it Doesn't Clear Post Screws Sufficiently that's why I Reluctantly went to 2.0 ID Coil. I'm learning about easier Rebuildable MTL RTAs. Vaping panic shopping is not a good experience for newbs or people that have been out of vaping circles for extended time like me
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Did a tiny bit of quick reading about that tank and it may actually be orings and/or not putting the tank together properly that causes massive leaking for that tank.
However, without question, improper wicking is a common culprit in a leaking RTA when the leaking is coming from the airflow.
However, without question, improper wicking is a common culprit in a leaking RTA when the leaking is coming from the airflow.
On my dl fl I've found that making the wicks stick out a fair amount (so they're the diameter of the main circular part of the peek cap) is working well.
When I first wicked it, the wicks were barely sticking out through the two wick holes, and they might pull in a bit (leaving spaces for leaking) due to this being a bottom fill tank; flipping it upside down to fill, the wicks pulled inward a bit from gravity.
When I first wicked it, the wicks were barely sticking out through the two wick holes, and they might pull in a bit (leaving spaces for leaking) due to this being a bottom fill tank; flipping it upside down to fill, the wicks pulled inward a bit from gravity.
Thanks I have a basic coil jig & waiting on a fancy one:
Iwodevape CW-30/CW-25/CW-20 Wire Coiling Jig Tool (3 Pieces)
Thanks Uncle, I'm as careful as I know how reassembling this little bute, checking that peek cup sits in place & its cap too.
Have to make sure I get Tank Specific O-Ring Item Numbers to order more. Have a feeling I'm going to need a few sets.
@markfm Gd info will cut wicking at least 1/8 inch above peek cap line, like in the video, switch out the ORings as well. I really wanted to replace my PT2 w/ these 16mm but they are manuf. by 5 different makers, one better quality than the other? Ulton, Coppervape, SKX, ST, Dvarws MTL RTA
Mine is SKU 9695151. I'm not rushing forward bc I'm frustrated need to cool off to get things done right, so I leave it alone till I'm up for another failed attempt
Don't forget I have other DvarwsStarted '16mm TOP FILL' Topic on FastTech Forum & Found:
Top fill tank without a 'juice flow control'.
Solution:
You don't have to change anything to make it bottom-fill - just keep the top cap on and fill it from the bottom. Your version has the same part at the tank base with the fill slots in place - it's just the top cap and chimney that's different.
If you're not top-filling, you don't have to worry about plugging the chimney. As log as you can't see through the wick holes into the deck when you've built the tank (I mean, all you should see is cotton), you shouldn't have any leaking or flooding. It's only when the deck is installed and you unseal the tank (like to top fill) that juice can force air out of the chmber and get in - with the tank removed, the deck isn't even involved.
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I know you said in the Shiny thread that your successful build was a very warm vape. The more wraps you use, means more metal to heat, which means a wamer vape.
Have a look at this comparison between a 1.8ohm Kanthal 28ga 2mm id coil with 11 wraps:
and a 1.2ohm kanthal 28ga 2mm id coil with 7 wraps:
So for a cooler vape, go for the 1.2ohm coil.
I'd also suggest you do a build and a few wicks on one of your 22mm bottom filling Dvarw MTL RTAs. There's not a great deal of room to work with on a 16mm deck, so you may find it easier to get the hang of building on a 22mm RTA first.
Thank you AngeNz, Great clarification of Vape Temperature relationship to the Number of Coil Wraps! And here I thought vaping was a mindless obsession
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