I don't think I'm doing this right. 32 Kanthal A1, got LO on ProVari and E1 when i fire it.
Edit: Multimeter gave the same reading too.
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I don't think I'm doing this right. 32 Kanthal A1, got LO on ProVari and E1 when i fire it.
Edit: Multimeter gave the same reading too.
It's set up as dual coil so your resistance will drop in half. Unhook one of the coils and run it as a single and see what you get. You're gonna need two coils at 4 ohms each to get it to run at 2 ohms. Looks like a lot of coils, must be big wire, what gauge is it? I'd try some 34 or 36g to get more resistance with less wraps. Also one or both coils could be shorting somewhere on the wick lowering the resistance. First thing I'd do is check the resistance of each one by itself.
short.....it's shorting........I believe you have some shorts somewhere 
Here is my response to similar issues on a DiD thread maybe it can help you also, all my SS wick atomizers including my newly purchased bliSS have been flawless using the below info:
" Silversx, you are shorting like crazy. When you measure out some wire and know it should 3ohms for example and it shows up waay lower....thats a big indicator of a short. The kicker is trying to find out where and resolving it.
Keep in mind, the idea behind oxidizing the mesh is to create a non-conductive "barrier" or "crust" on the wick so the current will be forced through the resistance wire. But, electricity will always try to find the path of least resistance. That oxidized surface of the wick can be broken down or scraped down to conductive material again with something as small as trying to position the coil as yer wrapping it or if the wick scrapes the edge of the hole of the tank body and a short can show up.
In my mind, that cotton trick listed above gives the best chance of keeping a short from showing up. Think about it, in yer 10 tries at wrapping the coil, how many times did the wick kinda move around on you a lil bit? or you wrapped a coil or to and had to adjust it mid wrap and the coil moved around some on the wick? These movements and points of contact are what can affect that oxidized layer. With that small amount of cotton on there creates a shield that will keep you from having to be so careful and delicate with it.
Just saying, I have never wrapped a coil on a true genesis style atomizer (top coil/bottom tank: did, line, zen, cobra..etc) until yesterday......first try I took a random wick I had made previously and just threw it in there and tried to wrap the coil all easy like all the videos show............worked for about 30 seconds.....the same thing e1, e4,e8 maybe even some others I didn't see I chuckled and said to myself "...haha, yeah right, that's what I thought..." 2nd try, I used the same wick hit it with a lil oxidizing treatment again and did that cotton thing and man-handled me a coil on there in like 20 seconds........and boom!!! not one hotspot, no errors, right at 2.2ohms as expected (34g nichrome 4/5 wrap) perfect even hits every time. I'm about to put my 5th tank through this thing and it hasn't missed a beat.
No matter what method/suggestions you end up using or trying just try to think of all the ways and places a wick can touch a metal ground and eliminate it and you will have better/reliable coils. "
Source thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...32693-my-mini-did-experience.html#post7220848
Go get it man!!!
Here is my response to similar issues on a DiD thread maybe it can help you also, all my SS wick atomizers including my newly purchased bliSS have been flawless using the below info:
" Silversx, you are shorting like crazy. When you measure out some wire and know it should 3ohms for example and it shows up waay lower....thats a big indicator of a short. The kicker is trying to find out where and resolving it.
Keep in mind, the idea behind oxidizing the mesh is to create a non-conductive "barrier" or "crust" on the wick so the current will be forced through the resistance wire. But, electricity will always try to find the path of least resistance. That oxidized surface of the wick can be broken down or scraped down to conductive material again with something as small as trying to position the coil as yer wrapping it or if the wick scrapes the edge of the hole of the tank body and a short can show up.
In my mind, that cotton trick listed above gives the best chance of keeping a short from showing up. Think about it, in yer 10 tries at wrapping the coil, how many times did the wick kinda move around on you a lil bit? or you wrapped a coil or to and had to adjust it mid wrap and the coil moved around some on the wick? These movements and points of contact are what can affect that oxidized layer. With that small amount of cotton on there creates a shield that will keep you from having to be so careful and delicate with it.
Just saying, I have never wrapped a coil on a true genesis style atomizer (top coil/bottom tank: did, line, zen, cobra..etc) until yesterday......first try I took a random wick I had made previously and just threw it in there and tried to wrap the coil all easy like all the videos show............worked for about 30 seconds.....the same thing e1, e4,e8 maybe even some others I didn't see I chuckled and said to myself "...haha, yeah right, that's what I thought..." 2nd try, I used the same wick hit it with a lil oxidizing treatment again and did that cotton thing and man-handled me a coil on there in like 20 seconds........and boom!!! not one hotspot, no errors, right at 2.2ohms as expected (34g nichrome 4/5 wrap) perfect even hits every time. I'm about to put my 5th tank through this thing and it hasn't missed a beat.
No matter what method/suggestions you end up using or trying just try to think of all the ways and places a wick can touch a metal ground and eliminate it and you will have better/reliable coils. "
Source thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...32693-my-mini-did-experience.html#post7220848
Go get it man!!!
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