Bolt Help...

[everman7]

OK...

I bought a provari, so I have totally neglected my bolt since I screwed it up and need some advice on what to do.
My switch died, so I opened it up and replaced the switch.
I absolutely hated the gold connector, not to mention it was crooked so my tanks looked funny sitting on top.
I pounded the connector out, and the few I had laying around didn't fit. I bought a drill bit that was really close to the diameter of the connector, but it was a hair too big. I epoxied the connector in and after 24hours hot-melt glued the wiring, switch and cap back into the top. As soon as I put a tank on and tried to tighten it, the connector spun.



Any thoughts on how to get the connector secured?
The top is too small for me to get a soldering iron in there, and I don't think I can heat up the aluminum enough for it to hold solder. At least it hasn't worked yet.

Thanks.

 

[Guinnesspubcan]

you could always put an 801 connection in it and use an adapter.

 

[Robert T]

I don't know how much to large you drilled your hole for the connector but you may be able to do what we did for the connector for the SGv3. It wound up being called a "solder shim." Clean the outside of the connector and flux it, then heat and apply a layer of solder all the way around. Let cool(duh) and then use a vice or something to press it in. You might want to remove the center pin and seal first. Doing it this way you won't lose your ground like you might with epoxy. The 801 is a good idea, too, but this should work without ordering anything else. Good luck!

 

[Rader2146]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FW7UOM/ref=mp_s_a_2?qid=1342669341&sr=8-2

Lead free and approved for drinking water pipes. I use this to set all my connectors and reinforce plastic box mods. Once it is set it isn't going anywhere.

Drill bits will rarely get you the exact size you need. With exception of the soldering iron, this is the one tool that I wouldn't mod without. It would have allowed you to enlarge the hole just enough for an interference (press) fit that wouldn't require additional adhesive.

http://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-reamer-66936.html

 

[Nomoreash]

The 801 as mentioned above is a little bigger and should work.

I used one of these on a Bolt.

Shorty 510-510 Extension/Connector with nut Sealed

I drilled the hole just barely big enough to press fit it in, then when I FINALLY got the connector pressed in deep enough that it was secure but not all the way through the metal I screwed the nut on from the bottom using needle nose pliers to tighten it. No way it's coming out.

If you go this route careful drilling the hole. I forgot which size I used but it was almost to small, any bigger and the press fit wouldn't work nor the nut would secure it from the bottom.

 

[Robert T]

Rader, are you saying that the Quicksteel is conductive? If it were that would be great news.

 

[Rader2146]

Never put a meter on it, but now I will.........

 

[Rader2146]

Non-conductive. Not even a flicker on the meter.

 

[everman7]

thank you all for the ideas...was hoping for that quicksteel to be conductive, the bolt grounds to the body with the connector instead of wires.
I may do the solder shim, that may be the ticket...

friggin harbor freight! I went to Ace and the only reamer I found was over $20... and the harbor freight is closer to me than the ace...

 

[Rader2146]

For the price of conductive exopy, you'd be better off just buying a new Bolt.

Do you have a pencil torch or "kitchen" torch?

The reamer from harbor freight works perfectly. It is just small enough at the end to chuck in a 1/2" cordless drill. Makes for quick work.

 

[Robert T]

The solder shim should work if your hole isn't to large. I'm sitting here vaping my SGv3 because it does work.

 

[WillyB]

Well this for the ground problems folks had with flashlight mods.

I assume the bolt switch is held in place with a tightened nut, that will be your ground point. You just need to solder a wire to the shell of your connector.