My First. Dual 14500 Battery

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Quexos

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Here she is! My first mod. Dual 14500 battery @ ~3.7v, Joye 510 Atty mod. Would run on a single battery too. The epoxy is not quite cured yet so it remains untested. Can't wait to give it a try...and tend to the burns on my hands from soldering for the first time since I was like 9 (I'm 45).

I had to do a good bit of modding of the box on this. The left battery would not fit at all without trimming the brackets that used to hold the negative connector. The other side fit, but too tight, so I removed the on/off switch and moved it all back to allow for bigger batteries.

dual_batt_mod.jpg


I would not try this with the dual wiring again. What a pain to hold 2 wires together and solder was. I'll find a better way for the next one.

Before modding shot. Look carefully at the left battery slot at the top connector. It is offset from the others by about 1 mm downward (to make room for wire behind it?) and that little bit makes it so my batteries would not fit in at all, even with the metal connectors removed, it won't fit between the plastic brackets sticking out, so the bottom ones were cut off.

before_mod.jpg
 
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Sci

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Trim those negative springs back some & that battery will fit better. Just make sure that you don't have a sharp edge on the spring that will catch on the battery.

I've got both of those helping hands from Harbor Freight. They are well worth the investment. I've got an atomizer mounted in one of the lighted ones. Works pretty good.:)

Good job on this. I like the 14500s, you should get a full day/night out of this one.
 

Connman

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Circuit is complete. That means a good working mod. :toast:

Don't take the below wrong. You did great on your first mod just want to hit you with some possible ideas to help possibly keep the on and off switch.

Just possible options and if it confuses you much just forget it.


I would have just done a couple things different. One you actually don`t need the 2 wires off the switch to the center pin of the atty/battery connector. And,
From looking at the picture you could maybe have switched the batteries so the positive side would be where the negatives are which also would have been moving those battery contact plates. By doing this you could have just drilled the center plate where the battery/atty connector is and soldered the plate to it eliminating the battery negative wire.
Hope that makes since it does in my head.

Now you said you didn`t like soldering two wires together so you could have jumped one wire to the other positive contact for the batteries and one wire to the switch.

And here is something to help oversized batteries fit these boxes a little better. One like Sci said cut that spring down and look at the picture in this link. Trim out those battery contact holders slots (maybe on both sides). Use 2 part 5 minute epoxy to put them contacts back in stable again. Also be sure to flatten the positive button on the plates if the room is needed.

Removing the battery slots

And this picture link below is how I shortened the springs.

Shortening the springs

Just a couple ideas so happy modding.
 

Quexos

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Mainly, this is an experiment to see if having double batteries at ~3.7 volts will give a more consistent vape than one battery that, from what I have read, is being overworked, or drawn on at higher than rated capacity? At the least, it will give a long time between recharges!

Drilling through the plate at the top and soldering it to the atty connector would be great. I may try that, if I can manage to drill through that thin little plate without destroying it or my fingers...seems it would snag and spin, bend, etc. I don't have many tools for that sort of thing.

Also, correct me if I am wrong, since I don't have any extra parts in there, I could have just reversed the polarity, shortened and soldered those red wires right on the shell of the atty connector (instead of the black one) then run the black ones through the switch and into the center of the atty connector, eliminating all that criss-cross slop.

As for the double wiring...I'm just ..... I wanted to make sure it had plenty of "pipe". The one coming out of the center of the atty connection is actually one wire folded in a "U" with the top/center/fold bared and soldered into a small notch in the end of the center pin. It was the easiest way to keep the double wire all the way through.
 
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WillyB

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I could have just reversed the polarity,
From your other post I thought you understood the atty don't care about polarity.

I would have done it like this, switching the neg and running it to the center post of your connector.

new_wire.JPG


Your 2 battery approach is a good one, especially if you are a Joye 510 or LR atty user.
 
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Quexos

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Yeah, WillyB, that is exactly what I was thinking of for Prototype #2. That and better wires. Mush less garbage in there. That or flipping the terminals like Connman said. I'll have a to take a close look at my boxes to decide. there is very limited room in there for wires without them getting in the way of closing the box, blocking a battery, etc.

I could always use the two right slots for batteries and trim the springs, and leave the on/off switch too, but I don't like the idea of having my atty off to one side. I like it centered...like I said, I am .....

Anyway, thanks for all the input.
 
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Sci

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Well, after using this for a while, it works, but not any better than a single battery one. I think I'll just make my others into one battery units and use the extra space to store a spare battery/atomizer/3ml juice bottle.

Putting 2 batteries in parallel(like you did) is just like using one battery, except it should last about twice as long. If you want a stronger hit & more vapor, you'll need to put them in series(the way the box was originally set up) with a 5v regulator.
 

Sci

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Yeah. I was under the impression 510 attys want to draw harder than a single battery will allow, and by using 2 batteries it might help. It does not. I'm not sure I want to go 5 volt for fear of toasting attys faster.

Try a 510 LR atty. It's supposed to be the same effects as a 5v system on a 3.7v(single) battery setup. It should work well with the setup you've posted here. You're not supposed to use them with a regular e-cig battery.
On the other hand, I'm using 510 cartos on a 5v system & haven't had any problems so far.
 

Ralph T

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Yeah. I was under the impression 510 attys want to draw harder than a single battery will allow, and by using 2 batteries it might help. It does not. I'm not sure I want to go 5 volt for fear of toasting attys faster.

Your impression is precisely right. For instance a fully charged 14500 reads about 4.2 volts with no load. When you complete the circuit with lets say a Joye 510, the voltage will drop down to about 3.6 volts (.6 volt drop). If you have two 14500's in parallel, then you have half of that drop (.3), so you are vaping at 3.9 instead of 3.6V. In other words, with 2 14500's in parallel you get about .3 more volts delivered to the atty. You may or may not notice that.

This will become more noticeable with an LR atty, because those have lower resistance and more current flows at a given voltage.

PS: The reason the battery voltage drops under load is because of the batteries own internal resistance, which comes into play when significant current flows (under load), and not when simply measuring it. Generally speaking, the bigger the battery, the less internal resistance. That is why larger batteries provide more current with less of a voltage drop under load.
 

Ralph T

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The negative atty solder looks like it might be cold.

Good eye. Yep looks like a cold solder joint to me also. If so, this would mean some additional resistance in the circuit which will rob your atty of voltage, thus power.

A cold solder joint can be caused by several things. Not heating the materials to be joined to a high enough temp, or having the wiring/parts move while the solder cools back into a solid are two common ones. This results in a poor electrical connection.
 
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Quexos

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Yeah, it probably is cold. Still I think it has a good connection because the wire is wedged under a little tab in the side of the connector pretty tight. The damned thing melts the plastic box around the atty connector if you heat it long, so I was trying to do it quick. I need to solder it before putting it in the box next time, which means soldering it to the inside wall, not the outside (or it won't fit through the hole).
 
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