Box mods?

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bearwen

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Jan 28, 2015
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since you posted in the newbie forum I am assuming your new so am I and I have looked at a lot of mods as I am trying to figure it out myself with the exception of some seriouse sub ohm coils and what not a 100 watt box is probably overkill.

I work in electronics so think about this if you have a .2 ohm coil (fairly small subohm) and run it at 3.7 volts that works out to 68.45 watts.
A .5 ohm coil at 4 volts is only 32 watts.
 

bfitz

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since you posted in the newbie forum I am assuming your new so am I and I have looked at a lot of mods as I am trying to figure it out myself with the exception of some seriouse sub ohm coils and what not a 100 watt box is probably overkill.

I work in electronics so think about this if you have a .2 ohm coil (fairly small subohm) and run it at 3.7 volts that works out to 68.45 watts.
A .5 ohm coil at 4 volts is only 32 watts.

I'm not sure if I understand what you are trying to say, so forgive me if I read it wrong.


The ability to control the wattage safely is what I like about the newest boxes that are coming out. When using a mech mod, the only way to get more power is from lower coil resistance. This can be a problem due to the lack of protection offered and some one who is inexperienced or just doesn't want to take the time to learn battery safety.

With most box mods today you can wrap a 1 ohm coil and push it at 60 watts and only be drawing around 7.5 amps off of the battery. I like to build duel coil set-ups that come in around .5 ohms and run between 50-60 watts, which at its peak is only around 11 amps, plenty safe for the newer batteries that are available. On a mech, a .2 ohm build at 3.7 volts is getting around 18 amps and that can be getting close to most battery's limits with very little room in case something works itself loose. Plus, a fresh battery will be pushing around 4.1 volts, which is above 20 amps and above a lot of battery's limits. There are other things to account for like voltage drop in the mod but, I will admit, I am not an electronics expert and my eyes tend to glaze over during that point in a discussion so I like to stick with the numbers that seem the easiest and safest way to go.

The other thing to consider when looking at regulated/high wattage mods is what you will be running on them. On my Segelei or IPV3 I exclusively use RDAs. I really want the power they provided for more flavor/vapor that I like. On lower wattage devises like an MPV or Istick I use tanks or RTAs like the Nautilus or Kayfun. I never take tanks over 15 watts, and it is even more common for me to stay at 11 watts. If that is what you plan to use then yes, the 100 plus watts might be overkill. But if you want to get into RDAs the extra power makes sense, even if it takes a while to work up to it.

I didn't go above 20 watts at first because that is what I was used to. Within a couple weeks I couldn't get a good vape out of anything less that 35 watts. It might not be that way for everyone and lots of different factors go into it, but having a bit more power (especially considering the only slight increase in price most of the time) isn't a bad thing.
 

bfitz

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Thanks everyone for the replies. I have been lpoking into getting the kanger subtank. I would also most likely get a rda too. I want something that will be good enough for low ohm builds so I won't have to upgrade in the future. What do you guys think about the ipv3 or maybe the cloupor t8?

I have never used the Cloupor products so I can't say, But I do have the IPV3 and it isn't bad. Really I think it is a coin flip between it and the Segelei models in the same range, I just happen to prefer the buttons and the screen layout on the Segelei over the IPV3. The IPV3 Feels a little more awkward in my hands, although it works fine. I have noticed lately with some new RDAs I'm trying out that, if the RDA has a longer connection it does not want to sit flush on the IPV3, even though it has a spring loaded 510. I don't have this problem with the Segelei.
 

tom9182

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Jan 28, 2015
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try to increase your budget - you will buy it most like once BUT for a LONG time !

at least it is my experience to share and I am happy with box mod !

If i was to increase my budget, what mod would you suggest?
I'm just curious to see what you guys have to say.

Also, i have heard great reviews on all of these, but what websites do you guys recommend me buying any vaping items off of?

The store near me is waaaay overpriced.


And, one last question.

What RDA would you recommend for around 20-30? I want to get a tank for my main use because i don't want to have to constantly drip liquid onto the wicks of the RDA.
 

Susan~S

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What RDA would you recommend for around 20-30? I want to get a tank for my main use because i don't want to have to constantly drip liquid onto the wicks of the RDA.

Just to clarify.

RBA: ReBuildable Atomizer (drippers or tanks)
RDA: Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer (no tank)
RTA: Rebuildable Tank Atomizer
RTDA: Rebuildable Tank Dripping Atomizer
BF RDA: Bottom Feeding Rebuildable Dripping Atomizer

So you are looking for an RTA or RDTA. Both of these a rebuildable tanks.

Another option would be a sub-ohm tank that uses prebuilt coils (and some of them have a rebuildable base). For example, Aspire Atlantis, Kanger Subtank, JoyeTech Delta II. Both the Subtank and the Delta II have an option to get a rebuildable deck.
 
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HecticEnergy

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Personally the dual 18650 box mods are bigger than I want to carry around with me, and I'm satisfied under 30w. But.. the great thing about vaping is there are products for any vaping style.
With dual 18650 I dont think you will find USB charging that works well.. Most dual mods wire batteries in series, so the charging would be problematic - potentially overcharging one cell which could cause it to vent violently.
One suggestion may be to start with a 30-50w mod that takes a single 18650 and has the usb charging you desire. That should be plenty of power to cloud chase at higher ohms (use thinner wire like 26 or 28ga). Then when you want to step up to the 100 or 150w mods you have a nice backup device that you can take with you when you dont want to pack around a giant dual 18650 mod and a spare set of batteries, but you'll have access to a USB charger.
The best 20-30 watt mods on the market seem to be like the isticks, or iPV mini.
 

HecticEnergy

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Well, i am looking to get a sub ohm tank and a RDA. As for the usb charging aspect, it doesn't bother me if i don't have it. It would just be a nice addition and would save me money from buying a battery charger. As of now, I am leaning towards a Sigelei device.

Like I said, something for everyone :) the USB charging is a big plus IMO, even if you have a battery charger. great for road trips...
 

cwakm8

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Jan 22, 2015
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I have a Sigelei 150 watt, a Subtank, and a Dark Horse RDA. I love the versatility with this set up. And it works great. I feel like I vape a lot and it last me two days. The down side is I just ordered a smaller mod because I am going on a trip and don't want to lose the more expensive setup if anything were to happen. Being able to change the wattage for my craving at the moment, seeing the ohms, how much battery us left, all very useful IMO.
 

drazinus

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Jan 28, 2015
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I have the ipv Mini 30w mod. I use an Aspire Nautilus Mini as my out and about tank and Tobh Atty v2 for my at home dripper. I don't know what the Tobh is going for these days as a friend gave me his spare, but the Nautilus Mini(and the Full Size Nautilus for that matter, my stepdad has one and he loves it) is really great for it's price, IMO, and the ipv Mini feels great in the hand, fits comfortably in the pocket, and so far is very sturdy(I got it about 3 weeks ago and have dropped it roughly 3 times from waist-height).
 

Ryedan

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I like to build duel coil set-ups that come in around .5 ohms and run between 50-60 watts, which at its peak is only around 11 amps, plenty safe for the newer batteries that are available.

Your calculation for battery draw is off a bit. Go to the Steam Engine battery drain calculator and chose 'regulated (APV)', 'Atomizer resistance' of 0.5 ohms, 'power regulation (VW)', 'Power (wattage) setting' of 55 watts, 'APV efficiency' of 90% and 'Battery voltage' of 3.2 volts and hit enter.

In the light blue area where it says 'Atomizer – what hits your topper' you'll see that the mod is putting out 5.24V, 10.49 amps and 55 watts. Now look at the dark blue area where it says 'Battery drain – what taxes your battery' and you will see that in order for the mod to put that out, it will take from the battery at 3.2V 19.1 amps and 61.11 watts. Increase the 'Battery voltage' to 4.2V and the amps drop to 14.55, which is why with a regulated mod I always use the lowest voltage the battery will see before the mod shuts down for battery draw calcs.

Now change the atomizer resistance to 2 ohms and you'll see that thought the mod output volts and amps change, the battery draw stays the same, so atty resistance has nothing to do with battery draw with VW. VV is the opposite as are mechanical mods.
 
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tom9182

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Jan 28, 2015
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I have a Sigelei 150 watt, a Subtank, and a Dark Horse RDA. I love the versatility with this set up. And it works great. I feel like I vape a lot and it last me two days. The down side is I just ordered a smaller mod because I am going on a trip and don't want to lose the more expensive setup if anything were to happen. Being able to change the wattage for my craving at the moment, seeing the ohms, how much battery us left, all very useful IMO.

Thanks for your opinion, i have to say 150w for 100$ is a deal.


I was also looking into the Kamry 200w box mod but it's not out yet last time i checked. For around 100$ 200w is just a bragging kind of thing lol. But i do like how Kamry changed up the look of it from a rectangle to something different.
 
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