Broken? Not fixable?

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I posted this in another area and while it had a bunch of views, no one commented and i need a bit of help. mods, feel free to delete or move this somewhere else that would be more helpful. Here goes:

I bought a Vamo v5 last week and have been using my Kanger AeroTank with it. Loved it! Perfect hits every time, great flavor, decent clouds (not a chaser though)...everything cigarettes used to give me.

All of a sudden, out of nowhere, it won't fire any of my clearomizers. Ive tried a nautilus, a plain aspire bdc, another Kanger (t3s)... none of them would work. It would semi-read the resistance, though it fluctuated constantly; the battery was fully charged and was not wiggly; it had never been dropped, ever. I have no clue what's going on.

I was told that the firing pin in my Kanger was crushed from over-tightening; then i was told that I'd crushed the 510 pin on the mod itself (again from over-tightening! ), but I've only ever finger tightened, never white knuckling, etc.

I exchanged it at my b&m for an itaste mvp 2, and i also bought an itaste svd which i HATE now due to inconsistent hits/draws.

I really want my Vamo back, but I'm afraid it's going to happen again. Any idea what happened, how I can fix it again later, what to look out for, etc?
 

Smann245

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A lot of the mods out there have fixed pin, brass connectors. They're junk and will all eventually fail. Stainless steel 510 threads with a spring loaded pin is what a proper connector should have in my opinion. Few mods come with them, some can be fitted with a proper replacement, and some can't. I only buy mods that have ss threads and adjustable pins or can be modified to accept one. Good luck.
 

Zanderist

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I'm not an expert, but from experience from my old ego, if the it wasn't firing, it was due to the positive connector either being too low or shorting out.

You could attempt to raise the firing pin with a paper clip or thin rigid object. But a more permanent solution is what's described in the youtube video.

Now if you want to get unnecessarily crazy just look at what I found this in a search:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/vamo/484751-vamo-v5-v2-head-replacement.html
Google search of "v5 vamo replacement head"
Vamo V5/V3 510/Ego Connection $6.99 - VividSmoke.com
It talks about replacing the head.

If your thinking about getting another you have nothing to lose.
 

crxess

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A lot of the mods out there have fixed pin, brass connectors. They're junk and will all eventually fail. Stainless steel 510 threads with a spring loaded pin is what a proper connector should have in my opinion. Few mods come with them, some can be fitted with a proper replacement, and some can't. I only buy mods that have ss threads and adjustable pins or can be modified to accept one. Good luck.

One mans opinion.

Vamo is a very popular mod. Still you have to feel out the mod and know what is going on.
Fluctuating readings is a sign of poor connection. This can be caused by the center pin on the mod being pushed downward into the control head to far. White knuckling is not required to mess it up. simply tightening beyond contact will start to compress the pin.
Head pins can be lifted and sometimes that is all that is needed to correct the issue.
A jewelers screwdriver works well for wiggling the pin back up.

If s 510 connection is to long, a support ring should be used to stop and support the tank. These are a few dollars and cheap security against damage.

The pin on a Vamo has a wire soldered to the bottom. when compressed, the wire can become bent and short against the underside metal. this will cause no fire issues.(pulling may correct)

The Vamo head can be removed for repairs, but usually ends in severe scaring. It is very securely pressed on.
 

DaveSignal

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So. .. does anyone else have any advice? Should I cut my losses and get another?

You can get a replacement top cap for the Vamo. I did this awhile ago, but I just searched my email receipts and it looks like I got it from vividsmoke.com. It requires some soldering. Once you get that replaced, you might want to look for something like a tank airflow adapter, which screws into the top cap and can now protect the actual vamo threads and top cap connections, since you will screw stuff into the adapter rather than the brass vamo connections.
 

Israfil

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As they said above... the pins just push in after a time and become useless. What I've found that works is to go to a hardware store and get a small rubber o-ring, small enough that fitting it around the pin would require some stretching. Pull the pin up, stretch the o-ring around it beneath the lip, and push it back down. Should raise it back up to a level that you can attach an atty and vape. After that, a 510-510 (sometimes 510-ego) adapter would probably be a good idea to prevent further issues as well as thread wear.
 

Cool-breeze

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A cheap fix is to buy a 510/ego adapter. The cost 2-5 bucks typically depending on where you buy from. Those adapters often have a longer 510 post than a tank and will make solid contact for you. The down side is it will look weirder ( and vape gear already looks kind odd) or you will need a beauty ring. I remember some of the vamos earlier models were a bit easy to break, I'm unsure of their quality now. Personally I would hold off for something more durable but I suppose the vamo has a following for a reason. Best of luck
 

Smann245

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One mans opinion.
It's an opinion based on threads like this that are full of band-aid solutions for fixing junk connectors. While you give advice on how to make a poorly designed connector work again after it has failed, I'll keep screwing atomizers into my stainless steel, spring loaded connector. No duck tape or bailing wire required. Good luck OP.
 
It's an opinion based on threads like this that are full of band-aid solutions for fixing junk connectors. While you give advice on how to make a poorly designed connector work again after it has failed, I'll keep screwing atomizers into my stainless steel, spring loaded connector. No duck tape or bailing wire required. Good luck OP.
So, case in point, I have an itaste svd and hate it. I get a horrible hit with a Nautilus, a better hit with a cheap T3S, and it's a p.i.t.a. to have to constantly increase/decrease voltage or wattage to get a consistent vape due to voltage drop from the telescoping shaft.

The Vamo was consistent no matter what I used. I paid just as much for the svd as I did the vamo...seems to me that they used better quality materials to build the thing but skimped out on the electronic internals.
 
I did, thanks! I wish I would have found out before returning it. I have pretty good Google-fu, but never found anything anything explaining how to fix. A's even I searched here, a million posts all about the v5 but nothing that told me what I was looking for. Probably because I wasn't using the right terminology arty that point.
 

VHRB2014

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We have a Vamo the wife uses now that I`m a mech head. I have to pull the pin up on it every couple of weeks so I`m familiar with the problem.

BUT, Vamo fixed this with the latest upgrade changing it to a spring loaded floating pin, so I would say if you got the newest model, you should`nt experience this problem again. And overall, they are built pretty good for the 30 bucks or so you pay for them.

Best of luck,
R
 
BUT, Vamo fixed this with the latest upgrade changing it to a spring loaded floating pin, so I would say if you got the newest model, you should`nt experience this problem again. And overall, they are built pretty good for the 30 bucks or so you pay for them.

Best of luck,
R

Are you referring to the v6? That's the one I'm eyeballing now
 

DavidOck

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So, case in point, I have an itaste svd and hate it. I get a horrible hit with a Nautilus, a better hit with a cheap T3S, and it's a p.i.t.a. to have to constantly increase/decrease voltage or wattage to get a consistent vape due to voltage drop from the telescoping shaft.

The Vamo was consistent no matter what I used. I paid just as much for the svd as I did the vamo...seems to me that they used better quality materials to build the thing but skimped out on the electronic internals.

Have both an SVD and a V5 Vamo, among others. I've yet to experience what you relate regarding the SVD. (Yes, it's fire button lost it's "click" about three months in, but that was almost a year ago, and it still works fine.) Maybe you just need to take if apart and clean all the threads, and put a small amount of thread lubricant on. NoAlox or similar will work fine.

Or it could also be in the connection to the topper. There again, a poor or intermittent connection will cause the electronics to keep changing the applied voltage trying to hit your set-point. I have found that a couple of my toppers don't go on far enough with the beauty ring on. An adapter or extender might work for you if that's the case.
 

VHRB2014

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You would have to check, but generally if its new stock, I would think yes.

Just checked the v6 on FT, and it says: "510/eGo threading connector (adjustable silver-plated-brass center pin)"

Just make sure you get the newest model and or check with your seller wherever you buy from.

Cheers,
R
 
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