BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads.

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Big Screen D

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First, I want to give a bid shout out to super_x_drifter and all the contibuters in the mega thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...271-micro-coils-increase-vapor-flavor-th.html

I'm not going to go into the how to of building a micro coil, and would direct anyone not familiar with the micro coil process in general to refer to the above thread.

I set out to come up with a micro coil build that is a VV friendly device. Something that would work well with my Billet Box, as well as any other VV device including eGo twist etc. Folks, no exaggeration, hype, or humble opinion. This is the holy grail. Seriously, it is that good. If it doesn't work for you, ya didn't build it right lol.

I'm getting a great vape at 4.3 volts. Never a dry hit, no flooding, and the cotton wick after 6 mils looks brand spanking new with not even a hint of discoloration. Just freaking rocks!

First pic is the ARO head disassembled and the initial micro coil build. 13/14 wrap of 30ga Nichrome using 18ga blunt needle for the wrap. This makes a 1.8ohm coil. Kanthal would come in right at 2 ohms. Size of wrap is important both for overall resistance, airway size and physical length of coil. Mech users can use 28ga wire, but be sure that the coil length extends from just above the heads positive pin to the top of the where the wick opening normally is. This must be correct!

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Next bend the legs. The short leg will be the positive connection.

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Now with the needle in place to assist in alignment, begin the assembly. We want the bottom of the coil just above where the positive pin will be down in the cup. Coil needs to be in alignment with the air hole of the positive pin.

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Now with the coil in place and centered, bend the legs to prevent the coil from moving out of position when the grommet and pin are fully inserted. Push the positive pin on in, remove the needle, adjust the coil if needed, and remove the excess legs.
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Coil should look like the pics below. Again, bottom of the coil just above the positive pine, and the other end should be at the same height of the wick opening once the stem is placed. In other words, the height where the wick hole becomes a straight slot below the v or taper.

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Now using several small pieces of cotton ball, stuff the area around the coil. Pack it in tight, not loose! Not the way we'd do it for a cotton wick inside of the coil. Prime till saturated insuring the airway is clear. You should be able to see cleanly through the coil much like one would do with a filler carto. In fact this works much like a filler carto only with much much better flavor, and vapor production, and a looser draw.

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nopoison

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I got it going on a EVOD!!!! great idea! It is the best flavor and vapor I ever had from an EVOD clearo!!! Im having a little bit of trouble with gurgling and leaking though but I added more cotton and it might be good now. Sweet mod OP!!!!!! :toast:

UPDATE: It is working SWEEEEEEEEEET with the added cotton. Also, I used 10 wraps of 30GA kanthal running 4.2 volts on my EGO twist.

UPDATE 2: After looking at the pics I realized the head wasn't screwed all the way down to the base! Duh!! :blush:

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Big Screen D

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I got it going on a EVOD!!!! great idea! It is the best flavor and vapor I ever had from an EVOD clearo!!! Im having a little bit of trouble with gurgling and leaking though but I added more cotton and it might be good now. Sweet mod OP!!!!!! :toast:

UPDATE: It is working SWEEEEEEEEEET with the added cotton. Also, I used 10 wraps of 30GA kanthal running 4.2 volts on my EGO twist.

View attachment 259086 View attachment 259087 View attachment 259089 View attachment 259091

Had a bit of that on the first one I made until I went with a slightly larger diameter coil, and packed the cotton in real good with the blunt needle.

Edit: Just seen the pics. Looks good.

Try a couple of things on your next build. Looks like that's a 1/16" bit. Makes the diameter a bit to wide which is why the 10 instead of 14 wraps. The coil should be long enough to extend from just barely above the positive pin at the bottom, to the same height the top of a horizontal wick would be. So that the cotton packing is just barely above the coil so juice doesn't pool at the top of the wick and gurgle.

But yeah, once tuned in, this micro coil configuration is off the chain.

Once you get the feel for how much cotton to use for your juice, it works amazingly well. Pack it in tight! No worries about burning the cotton in this set up.
 
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WolfeTX

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Tried this set up on one of my gs=h2 bcc's. OMG i have never gotten so much vapor out of that little clearo! I only have 32g wire atm so i was only able to get about 8 wraps in but it still works and meters out at 2.3 on my vamo. Was my first try at it and i am sure my next will be a better wrap (i am new to all this).
 

tom_chang79

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Do you put the cap back on?

I did, I put it back on upside down, cup-side facing towards the tip...

This concept worked great! I was surprised how much cotton I was able to stuff...

For an even distribution, I stuffed small rolled up cotton tufts at a time...

Just cranked my Protank with 2.2-Ohm coil with this method to 8.5W! Was never able to get it past 7.5W before I tasted cotton with a traditional horizontal cotton wick!!!

Vapes great, tons of flavor... :)
 

dr g

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I meant the top of the core, I guess that was a dumb question lol

I did one of these with about an 18ga (.050") diameter, came out at 2.0 ohms. Works quite well as far as feed and, perhaps most importantly, leak/gurgle resistance. I was able to take it up to 20w. Airflow, however, was significantly more restrictive than stock, so I will have to experiment with coil diameter and other modifications to get flow up.

The leak resistance is a really big deal, as you modify kanger heads for big power, they get more and more prone to gurgle and leaking in my experience.

This appears to be a good mod. Interesting how we're sort of coming full circle ... cartos are basically micro coils.
 

Big Screen D

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I meant the top of the core, I guess that was a dumb question lol

I did one of these with about an 18ga (.050") diameter, came out at 2.0 ohms. Works quite well as far as feed and, perhaps most importantly, leak/gurgle resistance. I was able to take it up to 20w. Airflow, however, was significantly more restrictive than stock, so I will have to experiment with coil diameter and other modifications to get flow up.

The leak resistance is a really big deal, as you modify kanger heads for big power, they get more and more prone to gurgle and leaking in my experience.

This appears to be a good mod. Interesting how we're sort of coming full circle ... cartos are basically micro coils.

Coil diameter sounds spot on. Look through the mouthpiece to insure you can see clean through coil...like a carto. Most likely some of the cotton is blocking the airway. I'm using the exact same coil, and if I can find a complaint, it's a bit too airy when used in a Protank, or my Billet Box.

Man your so right regarding the coming full circle. Truly is the same essential design as a carto only with a mega coil, and organic filler. No solder, silicone, or polyfill.
 

dr g

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Coil diameter sounds spot on. Look through the mouthpiece to insure you can see clean through coil...like a carto. Most likely some of the cotton is blocking the airway. I'm using the exact same coil, and if I can find a complaint, it's a bit too airy when used in a Protank, or my Billet Box.

Man your so right regarding the coming full circle. Truly is the same essential design as a carto only with a mega coil, and organic filler. No solder, silicone, or polyfill.

It's clear all the way through. It's going to be more restrictive than the standard because it's basically extending the bottom hole upwards as if through a straw, vs opening into a relatively empty chamber normally.

I'll try tweaking diameter just a little, it might make a big difference.
 

bapgood

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Hit upon a similar thing after hanging out in the "dragon nano" thread and seeing ITEOs builds. Using it on my Russian, most intense bottom coil/bottom air:toast: vape ever, hands down. :toast:

I would love to see pics or hear more about your Russian build.

Edit - found it....I was thinking it was going to be a vertical coil build....still a very nice build
 
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Big Screen D

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It's clear all the way through. It's going to be more restrictive than the standard because it's basically extending the bottom hole upwards as if through a straw, vs opening into a relatively empty chamber normally.

I'll try tweaking diameter just a little, it might make a big difference.

Let us know what ya find dr g.

Just seems strange since I'm running the same 18ga ID coil and I'm trying to come up with a good way to restrict the draw a little.
 

bapgood

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Let us know what ya find dr g.

Just seems strange since I'm running the same 18ga ID coil and I'm trying to come up with a good way to restrict the draw a little.


This could just be personal preference....but I do find variations between mods on attys with air via the 510, and I have always attributed this to the differences of the 510 and air channels on the mods.
 

Big Screen D

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BSD how long are you able to go without maintenance?

Didn't nail the build until yesterday, so IDK yet. About halfway through the second 6ml tank with no change in performance. So far, so good. The first one I made Saturday with a smaller diameter coil, showed no discoloration of the filler at all after vaping down a 3ml ProTank. So I expect maintenance to be minimal, and easy.
 
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