BSD's vertical hollow core Micro Coil build for ARO, Evod, and Protank heads.

[Kingboomer]

I've successfully dry burned these. What I do is soak for a bit in everclear/PGA or rinse with hot water, allow to dry, dry burn, then rinse again. There's still a bit of funk to the first tank, but it does work.


P.S. here's the link I found when I first tried this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9964m2-IJE

 

[Big Screen D]

I've successfully dry burned these. What I do is soak for a bit in everclear/PGA or rinse with hot water, allow to dry, dry burn, then rinse again. There's still a bit of funk to the first tank, but it does work.


P.S. here's the link I found when I first tried this out: Dry Burning Aspire Nautilus BVC Coils - YouTube

Cool Kingboomer. I'd really like to be able to revive these Aspire's by a simple cleaning process.

One of the benefits of the Kanger/ARO vertical with Rayon is the coils can be completely cleaned and rewicked. Takes me about 15 minutes start to finish to do so. I'm just glad that Aspire now makes a great vertical coil so I have the option to be lazy and just pop in a stock coil and vape on if I'm not in the mood to play.

 

[Kingboomer]

OK, so after taking one appart and attempting a rebuild, I've come to the conclusion that it's too big of a PITA to try to rebuild a bvc. As long as these last, I don't mind buying a new one when they finally do burn up!

 

[finagle69]

Hey BSD! This is the first time I'm seeing this thread. I seriously NEED to try this with my SABOTs. You're still recommending spaced 30AWG Kanthal around 5/64" with Rayon packed fairly tightly?

 

[Big Screen D]

Yep J. Spaced in this application works much better.

Be sure to keep your resistance under 2. Needs all the power the BB can throw at it.

 

[finagle69]

Yep J. Spaced in this application works much better.

Be sure to keep your resistance under 2. Needs all the power the BB can throw at it.

Awesome. Yeah 1.6 to 1.8 Ohms is the target to shoot for to max out the BB. I'll give this a shot tomorrow morning. Hopefully I still have some of that Rayon that Jasen sent me... lol

 

[Big Screen D]

OK, so after taking one appart and attempting a rebuild, I've come to the conclusion that it's too big of a PITA to try to rebuild a bvc. As long as these last, I don't mind buying a new one when they finally do burn up!

Totally know where you're coming from. I'm stocked that I can buy these premade now.

Wonder how hard is it to pull the wick out of an Aspire Nautilus without destroying the coil? Wicking and rewicking is cake.

 

[Kingboomer]

Totally know where you're coming from. I'm stocked that I can buy these premade now.

Wonder how hard is it to pull the wick out of an Aspire Nautilus without destroying the coil? Wicking and rewicking is cake.

When they're fouled it's near impossible. I have yet to pull apart a new one. there is a band of some type material around the edge covering the inlet holes, I have no clue what that is. I may try again if it's neccessary, but I'm thinking of sticking with stock otherwise.


P.S. Here's a breakdown of the coil: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boY0UuTggVc

and here's something interesting:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nuvA65u6T-Y

I may have to try this with the bvc, it'd make life a lot easier!

 

[defdock]

thanks for the thread, i had to search for it.



really was looking for tips since i was having a bad BVC rebuild experiance.

turns out, i was using alot less cotton then i thought.

 

[Big Screen D]

Cotton wicking is quite a bit trickier to get the density right than Rayon fiber. I can see where the BVC heads with the four small holes as opposed to two larger slots in the Kanger and ARO heads might work really well. They certainly do from the factory.

Incase you may have missed this post within this long thread: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...d-aro-evod-protank-heads-43.html#post14228621

 

[defdock]

yeah, my problem was not using enough cotton.



when i first did the build, i super packed a ton of cotton, and it worked well for a month. eventualy it got so gunked that it burned, so i had to rewick it.


every rewicking attempt, i was burning cotton. i figured with a bvc build - it SHOULD be looser so the wick can reach the whole coil rather than just the inside - but apparently not. i was burning the cotton on the sides of the kanger head, where there was no wick slots. i drilled holes so it had 4 wicks holes/slots and it still was burning.

so i searched and searched and came across this... first read - "use more cotton". so i pulled the old build out the drawer and rewicked it with 3x more cotton then i was. - PERFECT. no dry hits, no gurgles, no flooding. currently "breaking" in the cotton flavor, but that should dissapte by the end of the tank

 

[Kingboomer]

Just an update: the nautilus bvc's can be rebuilt, and easily at that! Just takes a few more steps to get the cup out of the outer case, but the rebuild's the same as for a kanger coil.


-Kingboomer

 

[MasterofNone]

Nailed it. 1.5 ohm, running 20 watts through it on this bad boy

 

[Paul44]

I wanted to say thank you for this great thread!

I had a bit of spare time today and built for my Protank 3 and loved it, flavour was awesome although vapour production was lacking for some reason.

Some more experimenting required on my part I think.

Thanks again!

 

[Rin13]

I've tried these several times. I cannot get them right. I get gurgling/spitting and little vapor. Poor flavor. I wish I could get these right because I liked cartos "back in the day". I would love a rebuildable carto situation.

 

[MasterofNone]

The flavor can definitely be there... The vapor too. The draw though! Even on the v3 of the aerotank base ( big cyclops hole) the draw is soo stiff. I guess ok just too far into rda's at this point to ever be satisfied with that kind of draw. It amazes me there was a time I thought the evod was too airy!