building a coil for a mec mod.

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Hawise

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I just place a .14 build on a VGOD mec mod. I heard that was dangerous. Do you agree? What is the danger?

What battery are you using?

The main problem there is that, if you're using a single battery mech and your battery is anything other than a new, authentic, good condition LG HB series or Sony VTC3, it could go into thermal runaway and blow up in your face.

Please stop using mechs until you understand exactly why there's a problem with that setup. Mechs require a bit of knowledge to use safely, and you don't seem to have it yet. You'll need to spend some time reading about Ohm's law, battery safety and other battery issues before you'll be ready for a mech.
 

Kprthevapr

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I just place a .14 build on a VGOD mec mod. I heard that was dangerous. Do you agree? What is the danger?
Two things, your ohm reader could be off by a bit, I don't care if it's the top of the line reader, it can still be off. What battery are you using? If you like a build that low, don't do it on a single battery mech mod.Until you know what your doing, use a safe build, over .20
Don't wanna read about ya in the news :)
 

Evileclipse

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I know we sound like really old people, but please dont use that mech mod until you know more about it? You'll see some people get mean with it, because it's really stupidly dangerous, but we're only trying to help and save you and your loved ones, from serious injury. I sell coils, and help customers all the time with their purchases. Unless someone could demonstrate a complete grasp of ohms law, a basic understanding of electricity, tell me the best 5 batteries and why, has an ohm reader, knows what a protruding 510 pin is, knows what battery wraps are and how to inspect them, and has to understand all the mechanicals of their mod, I'm not going to help with anything on it, and i might refuse the sale. Honestly. It's very possible for you to have a battery wrap that has a tiny knick that may not be visible, but is big enough for current to pass through. This would complete the circuit, essentially pushing your mods button, and would continue to fire until the battery ran out, or until the battery got too hot and exploded. If this happens, your mech mod has become a pipe bomb. Yes, a pipe bomb. At the Ohms reading you are at now, with a crappy battery, and one cut on the wrap, that is almost a guarantee. We don't want that. Well, you and the people around you don't want that. Honestly, I don't know you, and am just as worried that people will see a story about another vaper, and make it all harder for me to stay away from cigarettes. And if I can't stay away from the cigarettes, then neither can my kids stay away from some second hand smoke. If nothing else, please just think of the kids? Best of luck ! Happy Vaping!
 
Ok, thank you all for your responses. I am using a 3000mAh 35A 3.7V battery. Tested it out on a Coilmaster reader. no dings, scrapes or tears on the battery wrapper, however I did rewrap the battery once to date. Being an adult, and wanting to be safe here, I did take all of your advice and removed the build from the mech, and will try again with a safer build. Again to all I appreciate the advice, be it sarcastic or just informative. I did read about ohm's law but apparently I better read it again. But thanks for the advice.
 

Hawise

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Ok, thank you all for your responses. I am using a 3000mAh 35A 3.7V battery.

I have no doubt that that's what the battery claims to be, but unfortunately there is no such thing as a 35 A 18650. The maximum CDR of an 18650 is 30 A, and those will only have 1500 mAh. The highest CDR you can get with a 3000 mAh capacity is 20 A.

Here's the problem: LG, Samsung and Sony (well, they're still available as Sonys, but Sony's sold their battery division) are the only companies that make vaping-suitable 18650s. If it has any other branding, it's a rewrap. That means the company bought some batteries from one of those three (or possibly some not-at-all suitable for vaping batteries from someone else) and put their own wrap on it. First, the batteries the manufacturers sell are generally the ones that didn't quite meet their quality specs for sale under their own name, so they're probably not great in the first place. Then, there's the fact that rewrappers usually exaggerate the batteries' specs. You can see that with the batteries you have. There's no way it's a 3000 mAh, 35 A battery because you can't fit enough material into an 18650 form factor to get that performance.

I'd recommend you take a look at Mooch's blog:

Mooch's blog | E-Cigarette Forum

He's tested a bunch of batteries so you can see what their actual performance is. Remember, though, you can never really rely on a rewrap because the seller can change the battery that's under the wrap at any time.

On his blog, take particular notice of this post:

Mooch's Recommended Batteries | E-Cigarette Forum

These are his recommendations for vaping. You can see the CDR and capacity for each battery. There's also a list of reliable vendors at the bottom of the chart. A good vendor is important because there are a lot of counterfeits around, and sticking with them will reduce your risk of winding up with an under-performing fake.

Good luck on your vaping journey. I hope you get things sorted out.
 

zoiDman

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I just place a .14 build on a VGOD mec mod. I heard that was dangerous. Do you agree? What is the danger?

The Danger is that the build you place on a Mech Mod could force the Battery to provide More Amps then it is Capable of Providing. Causing the Battery to Vent.

And if those Vented Battery Gases don't have somewhere to go, you are now Holding a Pipe Bomb. Or more than likely, holding a Pipe Bomb with one end Stuck in Your Mouth.

cigarro-eletronico-explode-642x250.jpg


So How Many Amps are you asking your Battery to provide with that 0.14 Ohms Build?

And How Many Amps can your Battery Constantly Provide given it's Current Condition?
 

KenD

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I run .08 adv on most of my tubes with lg hb6 I have not been +.1 for some times I use a dna mod as my ohm reader I have never had a problem but I’m also not calling it safe


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Please don't advertise things like this on thread where the op has yet to learn the basics of mech mod safety.

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KenD

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It was just my way of saying that .14 was safe Sorry for not explaining that y
I find that a bit problematic problematic as well. In a post to a new builder it definitely needs to be qualified. It could be somewhat safe, as long as the user really knows what he/she is doing, has an ohm reader that is absolutely accurate at such a low resistance (doesn't exist though), is using true 30-amp batteries which are new (as the amp capability lowers with age and use). Not something that should be tried by a first-timer.

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Outcast

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I find that a bit problematic problematic as well. In a post to a new builder it definitely needs to be qualified. It could be somewhat safe, as long as the user really knows what he/she is doing, has an ohm reader that is absolutely accurate at such a low resistance (doesn't exist though), is using true 30-amp batteries which are new (as the amp capability lowers with age and use). Not something that should be tried by a first-timer.

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Deleted as so I don’t confuse OP
 
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KenD

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At the same time we don’t need to make it sound like it’s sooo unsafe nether scaring others a way but I will say new or not lg hb6 or Vtc 5a .14 is fine


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Safety precautions are important at any resistances on mechs, and particularly with very low resistances. "It's fine" is hardly sufficient information.

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zoiDman

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At the same time we don’t need to make it sound like it’s sooo unsafe nether scaring others a way but I will say new or not lg hb6 or Vtc 5a .14 is fine


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I think an Argument can be made that Many Times members of the ECF do Not Scare others Enough when it comes to pushing the Limits of what a battery can do in a Mech. Given the Potential of what can happen when a Battery Fails.

A lot has to go Right when someone wants to run Very Low Ohms on a Mech. Consider the Amp Draw Difference between a 0.14 and a 0.13 Ohm Build. Or if an Ohm Reader says your build is 0.14 Ohms, but in Actuality, it is 0.12 Ohms.

And I won't even go into the Issue that the Sony VTXxx Batteries a person has stand a Good Chance of be Inferior Re-Wraps depending on where they are Purchased.

The Long and the Short of it is if a Person just has to do such a Very Low Build so they get thru their day, Fine. Just Better to Do It on a Regulated Mod.
 
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Topwater Elvis

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Besides the silly low sub ohm resistance talk, the vgod is another mech with a pseudo/fake hybrid / direct to battery contact.
For someone new to mechs selecting an appropriate delivery device to use with a fake hybrid / dtb is a big part of using it safely.
 
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