building passthrough... resistors, LED's

[mrb]

I tried to build my own 5v passthrough last night,, partially successful.

I ordered some parts through mad vapers.com. 801 connector, to use with my 4072 atomizers.... some LED's, and a switch.

I'm building it in an old cigarette adapter case.... works out pretty good.

my problem: when i connect the Led light it burned out immediately.... I had it pigtail connected to positive, after the switch.. and neg to neg , after the atomizer.

I think this connection was wrong. but I saw a guy on you tube,, the detonator,, connect it that way though....
so I changed it to "inline" on the positive, after switch. it stayed on for about 4 seconds, then blew!

I took out the led all together, and it works fine.

using a usb, into a wall wart 5volt 2000mAh. am I too high on the milliamps?

also, my package of led's and switches came with little transitors in the package too,, as well as little threads(probably for atomizer wick or element?).

the transistors are tiny little peanut shaped, tan with colors left to right,, 1. purple or blue 2. yellow ...space, then gold.. I searched but could not figure out it's rating.
am i supposed to use these? when i checked them with my meter while i bridged it,, there was no difference in volts...

I actually think my meter needs a new battery because when i try to check ohms all it says is OL, and milliamps does not show anything... it's been about six years since i changed it. also, it shows around 8.2 volts when i touch the pos and neg.
strange since i am using a 5 volt power supply.

another thing..... is the atomizer supposed to glow all the time? it does not glow when i drip juice in... I kinda get a hit, but hardly any smoke on exhale.. then sometimes when i push the button and look inside it will glow feircly,,, kinda cool.
just wonder if something is wrong

any help would be appreciated

 

[Java_Az]

The LED will require a resistor on one of the leads or you will keep blowing them up. What you called a transistor is a resistor. 2000mah is really underrated for 5 volt vaping but will work so it is for sure not too much. The only time a atomizer should glow is when it is dry. Really it is not good for it to be glowing all the time. Some people will do dry burns with there atomizers after cleaning they glow then. But dry burns can be hard on a atomizer many have reported killing the atomizer after doing a dry burn. Keep more juice on the atty would be my suggestion.

 

[nelson996]

built one on sunday, works well. take the negative supply from the usb and split it, one goes to the resistor (470 ohm coloured yellow-violet-brown with gold band on right hand side) then feeds through to the LED (the shorter negative leg) and then to one side of the switch. use the other side of the negative feed to go to the outside of the atty battery connector, then feed a wire from the centre of the atty connector to the same side of the push switch that you connected the LED. the positive USB supply goes to the other side of the switch. sourced this info from this site somewhere, but cannot find it!! thanks to whoever that was!!

hope this is ok and makes sense and there are no typos!!

 

[mrb]

ok, so now i know why they sent the resistors.... I though for 5volt vaping that 2amps was the max.
so, i should really have more amps? I bought the power adapter from madvapes... it was the largest amp they had... most do not even carry 2amp.... i'm confused.
but, between both of your posts, i know what i need to do for the led's. thanks.
oh,, is it common for the atomizer to "pop"... like blow my cheeks out "pop"... (I was tailpiping without a tip) it did this once last night,, kinda scared me.

 

[Java_Az]

Yeah i have had one pop a few times not real common but it has happened. If you look really hard you can find a 3 amp USB hub or charger. Really it depends on the ohm's on the atomizer as to how many amps it can pull. A 2.5ohm atomizer will pull 2 amps anything lower ohms will require more amps. regular Joye 510 atomizers come at 2.3 ohms from what i have seen posted in here. 2.3ohm atomizer will what 2.17 amps @ 5 volts. LR atomizers would be starving for sure for amps. But it is not too big a deal you can run 2.3ohm off a 2 amp USB wall charger you will just get a voltage drop so you wont be @ a true 5 volts. LR atomizers would be a pretty big voltage drop and also stress the charger. I didnt know any better when i first started and now have a USB wall charger that squeals like a pig when plugged in.

 

[WillyB]

LR atomizers would be a pretty big voltage drop and also stress the charger. I didnt know any better when i first started and now have a USB wall charger that squeals like a pig when plugged in.

Interesting. My Joye510/306, 2.1/2.2Ω are obviously hitting my AC/DC adapter's 2000mA limit all the time. No squealing yet.

 

[mrb]

Yeah i have had one pop a few times not real common but it has happened. If you look really hard you can find a 3 amp USB hub or charger. Really it depends on the ohm's on the atomizer as to how many amps it can pull. A 2.5ohm atomizer will pull 2 amps anything lower ohms will require more amps. regular Joye 510 atomizers come at 2.3 ohms from what i have seen posted in here. 2.3ohm atomizer will what 2.17 amps @ 5 volts. LR atomizers would be starving for sure for amps. But it is not too big a deal you can run 2.3ohm off a 2 amp USB wall charger you will just get a voltage drop so you wont be @ a true 5 volts. LR atomizers would be a pretty big voltage drop and also stress the charger. I didnt know any better when i first started and now have a USB wall charger that squeals like a pig when plugged in.

I got another led and wired it up like someone else suggested, with the resistor this time.... works great!

that is good to know about the ohms and amps... the lower the ohms, the more amps needed.. do you happen to know the formula? just curious.

the atomizer i am running right now tests at 3.4, so i am sure i am well within limits..
not sure how i feel about the vapor at 5volt... sometimes it's good,, others not much vapor...helluva hit though,, almost burning..

mixed some vg and very little pg nic,, and alot of flavor,, watermelon... not too bad...

thanks everyone for your help

 

[Java_Az]

I use a calculator for ohms amps volts watts. Why do the math when a puter can do it for you. Here is the calculator i use Ohm's Law Calculators 3rd one down on the list will give you amps when you put in a voltage and a resistance number.

 

[Willriker]

You mean V = IR ?

V - voltage
I - current
R - resistance

If voltage is constant, and you increase the resistance, less current will flow through the circuit. When you add the resistance in series with the LED you are lowering the amount of current passing through the circuit (if you add just enough you wont burn out your LED anymore).

But yeah, those 'transistors' are more than likely resistors. resistors tend to have those colored bands around them. Those colored bands are a code. Te colors tell you how much resistance the resistor is rated at.

I use a calculator for ohms amps volts watts. Why do the math when a puter can do it for you. Here is the calculator i use Ohm's Law Calculators 3rd one down on the list will give you amps when you put in a voltage and a resistance number.

I find the math to be important. As things go, these particular equations are not very difficult to understand. But, understanding the equations really helps me to apply the principles behind the formula.

XD hope that helps!

 

[lekixik]

I got another led and wired it up like someone else suggested, with the resistor this time.... works great!

that is good to know about the ohms and amps... the lower the ohms, the more amps needed.. do you happen to know the formula? just curious.

To apply Ohm's law to an LED to solve for correct resistance, you should know the forward voltage, the minimum forward current, and the maximum forward current. That's because an LED will only illuminate once a certain amount of current passes through it. The more current flowing through it, the brighter it will shine. Once it's maximum forward current has been exceeded, it will burn. That's what happened when you didn't include a resister.

Additionally, an LED, unlike a resister, has a fixed voltage drop.

Determine the mA you want flowing through your LED first (the brightness). Subtract the LED's forward voltage from the total voltage to find the voltage drop across the resister, then solve for the current of the resister (which will be the same as the LED since they are in series).

R₁ = ( V_t - V₁ ) / I_t

R1 = the ohm value of the resister you want to put in series with the LED
V_t = total voltage
V₁ = LED forward voltage
I_t = total current

The voltage and current of your wall wart are determined by the turns ratio of the transformer.

 

[mrb]

cool,, i can finaly put some of that algebra to work for me,, woo hoo!

thanks