Bummed about my KFL+

[MikeWhy]

So the KFL+ arrived via RAM and USPS last night, 3 short days in transit. I quickly wrapped 0.8 ohms worth of 28 ga. on a short length of 2mm hollow Ekowool, and got a big wet flavorless vape. This morning, it tasted of a just washed, not quite completely clean, Evod, with a very loose draw. Strong hint of silica wick, very muted juice flavor. I'm betting someone here knows just what I need to fix this. Too much air? What does the air screw do?

I'm used to my Immortalizer, big wet flavor and medium vapor, on a mech.

Thanks.

 

[generic mutant]

I've been reading through the EPIC KFL THREAD (sorry, but it's that epic it has to be written in capitals). Mine have just arrived today, so I have no experience building them. A lot of people do seem to have trouble at first, but most in the thread at least seem to think that once you've got the knack it's a doddle.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/436118-kayfun-lite.html

But the two leading suggestions for problems seem to be:

Make sure everything is thoroughly screwed together, with all o-rings correctly placed - there are a lot of parts, so it's easy to miss one, and as a vacuum driven tank, it really won't work if anything is loose.

And also, wick positioning. To the extent that there can ever be a consensus, people seem to favour having the wick gently pressed into the juice channel. Not poking through the hole into the juice chamber, but sitting just in front of it (some people have it pointing straight downwards, with the end in the juice channel, others poke it down to one side, then spread it right across the base of the firing chamber).

Anyway, I hope that's helpful even though as I said, I haven't actually built it yet. I promise, I've been reading *lots*

 

[crxess]

Yep, soggy wet is flooded.

Sounds like you need to do a little wick work. All the KFL & Clones need the wicks loosely covering the feed holes(NOT PACKED) to keep fluid from freely rushing into the chamber.
Check out a few youtube videos. Some great setup procedures available.

 

[MikeWhy]

I would try micro-coils and cotton, but the whole design doesn't seem friendly to doing so mid-tank. Is this so? Is there a trick to getting at the wick without dumping the tank?

 

[crxess]

No syringe handy?

I usually just pull the e-liquid into a 5ml syringe if I need to do anything to a filled tank. Squirt it back in when done.

You might like this one:

 

[MikeWhy]

I just moved the wick ends around, and nudged the coil down a bit closer to the air hole. It's officially awesome now. Good flavor, a bit warmer than I'm used to, but apparently that way by design with the chimney the way it is. No objection from me on that score. Flavors are popping; vapor is good. I'll wait a day or two more before proclaiming it better than a dripper, but at this moment, I'm enjoying it immensely.

It's a single straight wick, bent down each side to sit flat on the deck, and the ends pushed to the left (clockwise) past their respective juice channels. No dry hits; no wick flavor.

Thanks for the links, but I can't watch the videos. Not a technical issue; just don't want to sit through a guy's life story for a few moments of out of focus gear shots.

 

[minimalsaint]

No syringe handy?

I usually just pull the e-liquid into a 5ml syringe if I need to do anything to a filled tank. Squirt it back in when done.

You might like this one:

I think this is a good build for the KFL / Russian. I take long draws and it always seemed like the regular horizontal coil with a cotton wick couldn't keep up. With the right balance of cotton, this build can keep the wick saturated enough without flooding to keep up with my vaping.

 

[MikeWhy]

The saga continues. I put the KFL on the Zen2 with a 510 plate earlier tonight. It might have been from the Steam Monkey; it might be a real Zenesis part. I don't recall which is what any more. Anyway, its center post is a tight fit on the insulator, and doesn't turn easy. The KFL apparently bottomed out hard enough to twist the positive post block while I tightened it on. At least that's what I think happened. I haven't drained the tank to look inside yet. I tried turning that center screw while building the coil and noted that it just holds the block in place, and isn't a height adjustment.

It took more than a few seconds of holding the button to figure out that nothing was happening. I even held it to my ear to listen for the crackle.

The battery came out quite warm. I didn't need a meter to finally figure out it was dead shorted, but I metered it anyway. 0.0 ohms. And I had held that to my ear earlier and pressed and held the button.

Nothing wrong with the battery that I can tell. It metered 3.8V, down from 4.1V in about 10 seconds of abuse. It's working just fine this moment in my Paps.

I don't know why this thing has to be so fiddly. It's basically a ProTank, a mass produceable device, but on steroids and with a coil deck. If I had a gas tip small enough, I'd take it to the woodshed and weld the sucker down so it can't turn and mess me up again.