Burnt Hits And No Vapor From Kayfun
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Which Kayfun are you using? There are several models, originals and clones--need more info. That said, Kayfuns are usually easy to build and wick--have you tried watching some YouTube videos? Phil Busardo is an expert and a great teacher. I recommend you look him up on YT.
Any one or a combination of about a dozen things.
Without specifics its going to be difficult to give any assistance.
Wire type?
Wire gauge?
Wraps?
Inside diameter of coil?
Resistance?
Power range used?
Coil height from deck?
Coil position in relation to air flow?
Are you pulse firing the coil to ensure it glows evenly from inside out before wicking?
Wicking material used?
My experience with kayfun v5 was lackluster, at best.
Without specifics its going to be difficult to give any assistance.
Wire type?
Wire gauge?
Wraps?
Inside diameter of coil?
Resistance?
Power range used?
Coil height from deck?
Coil position in relation to air flow?
Are you pulse firing the coil to ensure it glows evenly from inside out before wicking?
Wicking material used?
My experience with kayfun v5 was lackluster, at best.
Standard Kayfuns (Original Designs, this includes the original Kayfun, Kayfun Lite, Kayfun Lite Plus, Kayfun Lite Plus V2, Original Russian and Original Russian 91%)
Wrap, install the coil and place the wick into the coil (do not cut yet), do not make the wicking to tight.
Screw on the middle barrel of the chimney assembly, thread the wick tails up through it, secure the barrel snug.
Now, cutting the wick, need to cut the wick tails about a 1/16th of an inch above the middle chamber barrel.
Now Tuck the tails down into the chamber down the sides of the mounting blocks of the coil, try to tuck the wicking up against the blocks, priming the tails with e-juice helps mold the wicking easier, I also use a sharp pin to feel down inside to make sure the juice channels are clear. Want the liquid to come up the channels and onto the top of the wick (wicking should be just about flush with the lower build deck where the channels are, or almost an "L" shape). Prime the coil thoroughly, place on the top chimney, assemble the tank, fill it, and you are ready to run.
Really, really simple build and steps, really shouldn't go below about a 0.7 to 0.8ohms lowest (run to high watts you run the risk of melting the two insulators of positive one below the positive block, the other is below the deck entirely insulating the positive/air flow pin of the whole thing), really shouldn't build one of these to exceed 20watts, not enough airflow and juice flow is pretty restricted, should not exceed a 70VG liquid with these older Kayfuns either.
Kayfun V4, Kayfun Mini V3, and Kayfun V5
The build is very, very similar to originals, important part is that "L" shaping of the wicking when tucked down and that the juice channel/holes are not covered. With looser airflow and more juice flow holes, thicker liquids can be used, that rotating base is the juice flow control, all the way turned clockwise until it stops (fully open), all the way counter-clockwise until it stops (juice flow closed), this is for the top fill system in place. You can get by with about 0.5ohm (Kayfun V4 with the Sub-ohm mod kit (has a wider air channel and replacement PEAK insulators to handle the extra heat, and the Kayfun V5), being naturally more airy than the original you can get close to about 25watts max.
Remember wicking properly into the coil, just loose enough you can get the wick out without destroying the coil and not to loose it shifts easily in the coil, just enough tension/friction to keep the wick in the coil. To tight, won't wick good enough, especially with thicker juices, and if to loose can lead to hot spots on the wire or terrible spitting and popping.
I don't know what the problem was but I tried like 6 different builds and it just started working again after taking it apart and cleaning it and putting a new build in it... I'm gettimg good flavour now. Thank you everyone for your help.
Glad you got it figured out. The first builds are always the roughest to get past with a Kayfun class, but once you get it down, one of the most reliable tanks on the market hands down.
what kind of Kayfun do you have.
are you using it in power or temperature control.
what kind of wire are you using? nickel and Titanium is ONLY FOR TEMPERATURE CONTROL.
Kayfun is a tootle puffer device. in power mode keep the wattage under 17-20 Watts. With cotton you need tge cotton tight but still loose enough to slide inside the coil.
are you using it in power or temperature control.
what kind of wire are you using? nickel and Titanium is ONLY FOR TEMPERATURE CONTROL.
Kayfun is a tootle puffer device. in power mode keep the wattage under 17-20 Watts. With cotton you need tge cotton tight but still loose enough to slide inside the coil.
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