Burnt Rubber Taste From Rebuilt Kanger Coils

[srambo]

I've come to the conclusion that I will never be able to properly rebuild Protank atomizers! No matter what I do I get an awful burnt rubber taste which has to be the grommet (I see discolor on them once I remove tested coils). I've doubled the legs, twisted them, tried 4, 5, 6 wraps and the coils either have a low load, or decent resistance with that awful taste. I've torched the crap out of both the wick and kanthal, so I don't think that's it.

I feel like if I can't do this, then the Igo-W I just got will be useless once these premade coils are burnt out.

I'm super frustrated but I don't want to give up. Any suggestions? I'm using 2MM wick and 32 gauge kanthal wire.

 

[vaperature]

Are you trimming your coils flush with the rubber plug? Rub your thumb against it and if you can still feel the coil sticking out, take a pair of toenail clippers and clip it until it is flush.

 

[elfy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s watch this, he uses a 5/64s drill bit and wraps wire around it....works great

from how I understand it (and im really new to this) if its low ohms on a coil, its going to get really hot fast..so maybe thats why you are cooking your grommets.

maybe a adult who knows what they are talking about will chime in - im super duper new to this and dont know much. but I like peas.

mm, peas.

for whats its worth i redo coils on a kanger mini protank II, I use 30 gauge kanthal wire and cotton from CVS (sterile cotton balls), and Ive tried 10 wraps and 12 wraps so far. might make a 9 tonight, that will get a lil warmer than a 10 wrap but drain my batt a little faster.

edit : let me add i use the cotton so that i can just yank that, hit the coils with some water, then dry burn em, redo the cotton and wet it with some juice. then its pretty much ready to go, but ill fill a tank and let it sit for a few mins so that its wicking. and a LITTLE cotton goes a long way.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

Something many people do without noticing it when putting their news coils back together, is pulling a bit too hard on one of the legs (or both) and getting the coil too close to the grommet.

 

[Sam McMillan]

It's that damn grommet.. You can try to solder NR wire at the bottom but it's a big pain.

 

[srambo]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna give it another go when when I get off work!

 

[Moodyfisherman]

I am only into the vaping world 8 weeks now but have been rebuilding my protank mini atomizer coils for 1/2 of that time. I pretty much have it nailed but burn a grommet here and there....it only happens when I do the touchy dry burn to reuse a coil or a new coil to burn off the chems in the silica wick.
The thing I don't get is why there are no replacement grommets available from Kanger or anyone? I mean I understand why they are not available as they want to sell replacement coils not parts. But burning some, losing them down the drain when washing etc. person should be able to buy a bag of them for us cheapskates (and hobbiests) that rebuild our beloved Protanks...you can get the post insulator replacements from Kidney Puncher site but they are not the same and aren't the direct replacement plug and play pieces??

 

[StarDose]

Could be a misleading picture but the coil looks like its wrapped a little too tightly that could cause wicking issues and hot spots that could burn the rubber aswell.

 

[jocat54]

I am only into the vaping world 8 weeks now but have been rebuilding my protank mini atomizer coils for 1/2 of that time. I pretty much have it nailed but burn a grommet here and there....it only happens when I do the touchy dry burn to reuse a coil or a new coil to burn off the chems in the silica wick.
The thing I don't get is why there are no replacement grommets available from Kanger or anyone? I mean I understand why they are not available as they want to sell replacement coils not parts. But burning some, losing them down the drain when washing etc. person should be able to buy a bag of them for us cheapskates (and hobbiests) that rebuild our beloved Protanks...you can get the post insulator replacements from Kidney Puncher site but they are not the same and aren't the direct replacement plug and play pieces??

Are you talking about these clicky

 

[edyle]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrvwOf13U-s watch this, he uses a 5/64s drill bit and wraps wire around it....works great

from how I understand it (and im really new to this) if its low ohms on a coil, its going to get really hot fast..so maybe thats why you are cooking your grommets.

maybe a adult who knows what they are talking about will chime in - im super duper new to this and dont know much. but I like peas.

mm, peas.

for whats its worth i redo coils on a kanger mini protank II, I use 30 gauge kanthal wire and cotton from CVS (sterile cotton balls), and Ive tried 10 wraps and 12 wraps so far. might make a 9 tonight, that will get a lil warmer than a 10 wrap but drain my batt a little faster.

edit : let me add i use the cotton so that i can just yank that, hit the coils with some water, then dry burn em, redo the cotton and wet it with some juice. then its pretty much ready to go, but ill fill a tank and let it sit for a few mins so that its wicking. and a LITTLE cotton goes a long way.

How do you put back the cotton? you push it into the coil with a pin? run a pin with a thread attached and the thread tied to the cotton?

 

[sunnata]

yes Edward, what you describe would work just fine. a pin, a piece of kanthal, or even pulling the cotton (after rolling between your fingers), are all good options.

the micro-coil that elfy linked in the video has a pretty big diameter (when compared to the stock heads), it's not that hard to get the cotton thru it, even without a pin/needle.

 

[Killaq2188]

I will be rebuildling the kanger protank here shortly just waiting to get my OHM reader. But I just want to say that you technically need the rubber gromet on the coils. I have been cleaning and dry burning my heads for about 2 months. As long as the silical is long enough and wide enough you shouldnt be running into too many issues. I do have a question tho.. Have you done any preburns to the coil b4 adding ne liquid to it? And what is your voltage and wattage at?

 

[Moodyfisherman]

Are you talking about these clicky

No......dang those look like (real) replacements.....thanks jocat54...
I will have to get some...

 

[TXEAGLE]

Happens to me all the time. Just real hit and miss

 

[happydave]

so if you want to rebuild these EVOD / PROTANK coils you need a resistance to non-resistance arc welder. someone was selling them for while but i don't think you can find them anymore.. there are directions on how to make one out of a disposable camera and or other stuff from a hardware store floating around online. HOWEVER! this should only be done by someone who has some REAL experience in dealing with high voltage electrical. these things run hundreds of volts at hundreds of amps to arc weld the wires together and could injure or kill someone. it also as the potential to catch fire if you fail to use circuit protection or if you hook things up improperly.

 

[srambo]

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I did micro coils with a small nail, 6 wraps, and used cotton instead of wick and it's working great! Getting 2.0ohms and really solid hits.

Couldn't have done it without your help, it's genuinely appreciated!

 

[elfy]

How do you put back the cotton? you push it into the coil with a pin? run a pin with a thread attached and the thread tied to the cotton?

easy peasy! (mm, peas)

for one, i now wear glasses (didnt used to) so trying to look at something as tiny as a 2mm coil (not a true micro coil actually) is a pain in my elf .....

so, I got this from Harbor Freight: http://www.harborfreight.com/jumbo-helping-hands-with-led-lights-65779.html

there is also another model that is a light + magnifying glass only, like a desk lamp: http://www.harborfreight.com/desktop-magnifying-lamp-97448.html

what I got was about 7 bucks, the desk lamp is about 25..so, cheapniss wins

anyways - the thing I have has a tiny spot on it thats 6x magnification in addition to the regular magnifying glass. so, when I make a small cotton wick (and its a tiny amount of cotton maybe 2 dry rice grains worth of it, I really make it nice and pointy and thread it through. so far it hasnt been an issue getting the cotton in there. after it gets primed with juice it will swell up nicely. its been said here on the forums that with cotton, less is more and im sticking with that, I know I made a fatter wick recently and I didnt like it as much.

you will need a few tools to really make this work, but they arent expensive. pointy tweezers, and some flat ones too for coil manipulation/adjusting. maybe a butane torch for squishing the coils, etc. thats maybe the most expensive thing.

but the flavor vs. stock Kanger heads? way better.

 

[catalinaflyer]

I wish I could chime in and say I have found a cure for the dreaded "burnt rubber" syndrome that seems to afflict some rebuilt PT heads but alas I have rebuilt somewhere around a dozen (between me, my wife and her friend) and still haven't experienced the burnt rubber.

I use a 1.85 mm piece of tool steel (I have a machine shop in the back garage and started with 2.0 mm which was too large for 2.0 mm Ekowool so I machined it down to 1.85) to make micro coils from 28 and 30 gauge kanthal then after heating to bright red with a butane torch and compressing the coils with a pair of tiny needle nose pliers I reinsert the tool steel, lay it in the head, pull the legs tight as I reassemble it then slide the steel out and work a piece of 2mm Ekowool into the coil. I shoot for 2.2 ohms then run them on a Galileo mechanical mod with a fresh battery. So far it's working and no burning.

 

[RedNBlack]

Should not really be any rubber grommet near the coil/wick area.
The only grommets are outside of the coil/wick area, not really sure where the rubber taste would come fomr.
Is it just the PT, or all coils/wicks you have rebuilt????

 

[catalinaflyer]

Should not really be any rubber grommet near the coil/wick area.
The only grommets are outside of the coil/wick area, not really sure where the rubber taste would come fomr.
Is it just the PT, or all coils/wicks you have rebuilt????

On a Protank head both legs of the coil are in fact held in place with a rubber grommet. If the coil is wound wrong then the legs get hot and burn the grommet.

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