Burnt taste with manual battery

[Cstock]

I need help. I just started using a manual battery for the first time and for some reason I'm getting a burnt taste with it. I'm using top coil clearos. It's not the clearos because I don't get the taste on my automatic batts. I'm assuming it is because of my draw or how long I'm holding the button down. Could I be drawing too fast? Drawing too slow? I'm lost and I'm getting really aggravated. Please help.

-C

 

[Cstock]

Also I honestly don't even want to continue to use it until someone gives me some feedback. I don't want to roast my wick prematurely... [emoji17]

 

[dice57]

K, back in the day, with most cig-a-like manual batts, a 1-2 second pressing of the button yields the best vape, gives time for the coil to heat up and atomizing juice.

With the auto batts, one would give a couple puff, puffs, to get her hot. I'd press button, bring tip to lips, then vape.

Depends on ones ohms and how fast she get's to temp.

Burning is usually a wicking issue. Either your volt/watts is to high, turn it down till it taste fine, basically your vaping beyond the atty's wicking potential.

If it is not variable, chances are it's just a better batt than the auto one you had, and puts out higher volts. If this is the case, then may need to get a better clearo that can wick better. All clearo's are not created equally.

 

[Kaezziel]

Dice hit it perfectly. It isn't that you have a bad battery... you probably have a pretty good battery, the clearo just isn't keeping up with it. Try a few draws without hitting the battery (almost to the point of getting gurgling) then fire the batt and see if you still get the burnt taste...
(Drawing without firing creates pressures that should wet the wick a bit more)

 

[Cstock]

K, back in the day, with most cig-a-like manual batts, a 1-2 second pressing of the button yields the best vape, gives time for the coil to heat up and atomizing juice.

With the auto batts, one would give a couple puff, puffs, to get her hot. I'd press button, bring tip to lips, then vape.

Depends on ones ohms and how fast she get's to temp.

Burning is usually a wicking issue. Either your volt/watts is to high, turn it down till it taste fine, basically your vaping beyond the atty's wicking potential.

If it is not variable, chances are it's just a better batt than the auto one you had, and puts out higher volts. If this is the case, then may need to get a better clearo that can wick better. All clearo's are not created equally.

Okay, it's not variable. It's the halo g6 batt rated at 3.7 volts, ranging from 3.3 to 4.2 volts actual. I'm using kanger e smart clearos rated at 2.2 ohms resistance. Should this be okay?

Thanks btw!

 

[Cstock]

So it's got nothing to do with how fast or slow my draw is?

 

[Kaezziel]

So it's got nothing to do with how fast or slow my draw is?

Maybe? It's hard to say for sure... try changing up your draw and see how it acts. For me, clearos are a bit hit/miss, and I quickly grew tired of them. Switched to carto tanks... eventually got tired of them (most have a fairly tight draw which only gets worse with use)

You can try cleaning the atty in vodka, that might help any residual burnt taste to dissipate. Then let it dry real good and give it another shot.

 

[Cstock]

Maybe? It's hard to say for sure... try changing up your draw and see how it acts. For me, clearos are a bit hit/miss, and I quickly grew tired of them. Switched to carto tanks... eventually got tired of them (most have a fairly tight draw which only gets worse with use)

You can try cleaning the atty in vodka, that might help any residual burnt taste to dissipate. Then let it dry real good and give it another shot.

Yeah unfortunately I'm not looking to upgrade or move to anything bigger. I really love the size of the G6. I like the clearos better than the cartos, and there really isn't anything else out there with 808 threads that won't look absolutely absurd on the G6 stick batt haha.

 

[Kaezziel]

Very true... stick batts do not really give you a whole lot of options... lol

 

[dice57]

2.2-1.8 ohms would be fine, depending on the attys ability. Draw does have an impact, to much, and you'll be out pulling the vape produced, slower draw will yield more vapor and flavor.

Priming pulls as Kaez mentioned, should yield more details. How long been vaping the coil head? are they changeable? The main thing when vaping a new coil head, or atty, is to allow enough time for the wick to be saturated. If you fill and vape, chances are high, you burnt your wick, increased your chances of flooding, and get real urked and wanting to throw chit

The second biggest trouble maker, is over tightening the atty onto the batt. This can bend coil wires, causing hot spots and shorts, burnt dry hits, shut of air supply, and make on throw stuff and run to store to buy smokes.

Vape is progressive, the more one learns, the better their vape gets, and the larger the collection becomes.

Good luck, have fun,


Vape long and Prosper.!!!!

dice has left the building, good night and vape tight, or something like that

 

[EBates]

You mentioned using top coil clearos. Are you keeping your wicks saturated? A dry wick is guaranteed to produce burnt hits.

 

[Cstock]

You mentioned using top coil clearos. Are you keeping your wicks saturated? A dry wick is guaranteed to produce burnt hits.

Yeah I am. I'm just going to start taking more of a break between hits and see if that helps. Hopefully I didn't burn the wick already

 

[EBates]

FYI most, if not all, pre-made atomizer heads use silica wicks. You will not burn a silica wick. What burns is juice residue. This is why dry burning is the best cleaning technique for atty heads. It will burn the juice residue off of the wick and heating coil.

 

[tj99959]

Back when (damn there sure are some old folks around here) it wasn't uncommon for a person to have two atties going. One a 2 ohm and the other a 3 ohm. Use the 3 ohm to knock the top off the charge, and then switch to the 2 ohm.
Then through the magic of technology came PVs that would do all that for you.

 

[Kaezziel]

Back when (damn there sure are some old folks around here) it wasn't uncommon for a person to have two atties going. One a 2 ohm and the other a 3 ohm. Use the 3 ohm to knock the top off the charge, and then switch to the 2 ohm.
Then through the magic of technology came PVs that would do all that for you.

Holy crap, I soooo remember doing that... and then the dual coils came out so I had three atties running, bouncing on and off the same batt!

 

[Cstock]

FYI most, if not all, pre-made atomizer heads use silica wicks. You will not burn a silica wick. What burns is juice residue. This is why dry burning is the best cleaning technique for atty heads. It will burn the juice residue off of the wick and heating coil.

Interesting. So it kind of sounds like if I take too slow a draw, the atty will get too hot and burn the juice. Versus a little quicker draw which will keep the temp down. Would you agree with that?

Above all else, these things are getting cleaned with vodka when I get home!

 

[tj99959]

Unfortunately that quicker draw will probably just lead ot a good case of vapors tongue.

The key is matching voltage/resistance/wicking/and air flow. If 1 of the 4 is off, all 4 are off.

 

[AngiBe]

Post your question here if it's a Halo batt

Halo

You will get your questions answered VERY fast.