Burnt taste with pro tank - battery or tank?

[HFKarma]

So i've had this ecig for about a week now and it worked ok for a little bit, but now it's starting to taste weird. I'm using a Vision Spinner which is a ego twist basically and this protank I got from a shop which has the same setup as a kanger pro tank 2. I got this new liquid 2 days ago and it has a very very minimal taste (80vg/20pg is the only mix i've been using). I have went through 3 coils so far and I got a new one today which had the weak taste right off the bat, it didn't taste burnt though. I put the tank on a friends iTaste mvp 2 and it tasted perfect and it was exactly what I wanted. I'm just wondering how can I make my battery not make the liquid taste so weak or how can I make the tank better for my battery?

Thanks ECF

 

[Dakota Jim]

so the question is what setting was friends mvp2 on? if he has it in voltage mode ask him what it was set at and set your spinner to the same voltage (it is easy to accidently change the voltage on spinners and twists)

If it was in wattage mode see what the actual resistance on your head is (your friend can check it on his mvp2 - stated ohms by the manufacturer and actual ohms may vary by up to .3 ohms) and then set the voltage to correspond with that wattage per this chart

or (and this is an improbable or) the VV board in your spinner went bad and is just outputting at 5 volts no matter what you set it to - easy test is to dial it all the way down, vape it, dial it all the way up, vape it and see if there is any difference

also, have you gone through 3 coils in the last three days? because of burnt taste? (oh, and coffee and chocolate flavors almost always taste burnt to me if it is that type of flavor)

I have a clone protank 2 that tastes burnt all of the time also (build my own heads, so the heads are not the issue) - I have ordered an aero tank base to see if this solves it or not

high vg eliquids tend to have muted flavors (higher vg = more clouds, higher pg = more flavor)

hope this helps

 

[Frenchfry1942]

Sounds like the battery is putting to much power past the resisting coil. The chart above is worth saving for future consideration.

 

[HFKarma]

Thanks to both of you ^ and my friends was at 4.1 and same with mine. It's not the tank because a 2.2 ohm carto should be able to handle 3.3v-4.1v. It even taste weird at 3.3v.

 

[syndicate2083]

I find that the usual suspect with these is wicking.

I use my couple protanks off and on for a spell and usually put it down when i get tired of the wicking problems. They have a VERY sensitive line between flood and dry.

The normal setup has the center wick inside the coil and 2 additional bundles. This usually burns easy peasy. Removing 1 can be ok, but its easier to flood, and can still be dry, removing both usually floods the crap out of it and I just get juice puddles.

Note that the juice plays a huge role in this as well. Thicker juice, use less wick. Thinner juice, more wick. Finding that sweet spot is hard.

Not to be a downer, but this is what I think is likely going on for you. I really want to like the protank/bottom coils, but they are just so darn finnicky!

Straight up ease of use and drop it in and forget it, I go with a regular old carto tank anyday. Its just easier, and 95% of the time problem free.

Tanks run all over the spectrum, some from my experience:

Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks great quality tanks, 'pricey' but worth the quality
Odyssey Tank Beautiful tank, but a bit difficult to read levels, but great craftsmanship and warranty.
Then you have run of the mill cheap-er tanks
Ala: Smok Tech Pyrex DCT works, nothing fancy, kinda need smok-tek pre-punched cartos tho.

YMMV but if you get a nice tank, it will last, just work, and something you will go back to time and again. Cartomizers arent hard to deal with, punching your own is pretty easy and theres a lot of tools out there to do it, or you can buy pre-punched.

 

[HFKarma]

I find that the usual suspect with these is wicking.

I use my couple protanks off and on for a spell and usually put it down when i get tired of the wicking problems. They have a VERY sensitive line between flood and dry.

The normal setup has the center wick inside the coil and 2 additional bundles. This usually burns easy peasy. Removing 1 can be ok, but its easier to flood, and can still be dry, removing both usually floods the crap out of it and I just get juice puddles.

Note that the juice plays a huge role in this as well. Thicker juice, use less wick. Thinner juice, more wick. Finding that sweet spot is hard.

Not to be a downer, but this is what I think is likely going on for you. I really want to like the protank/bottom coils, but they are just so darn finnicky!

Straight up ease of use and drop it in and forget it, I go with a regular old carto tank anyday. Its just easier, and 95% of the time problem free.

Tanks run all over the spectrum, some from my experience:

Phiniac Rugged Pyrex Glass Tanks great quality tanks, 'pricey' but worth the quality
Odyssey Tank Beautiful tank, but a bit difficult to read levels, but great craftsmanship and warranty.
Then you have run of the mill cheap-er tanks
Ala: Smok Tech Pyrex DCT works, nothing fancy, kinda need smok-tek pre-punched cartos tho.

YMMV but if you get a nice tank, it will last, just work, and something you will go back to time and again. Cartomizers arent hard to deal with, punching your own is pretty easy and theres a lot of tools out there to do it, or you can buy pre-punched.

Thanks for the help, appreciate it. I've had this tank for a few days and i'm not really liking it. I have a DCT in my draw, I just need to get some replacement cartos for it and i'll be good. 1 carto lasted me like 2 weeks (I don't mind replacing them cause they're $7 for 5 of them where I get them) and i'm on the 3rd coil a week in. Deff. picking some replacement cartos up tm, thank you again.