Button Adjustment Problem/ Please Help

[aruga]

Hello all

I have read all the in info and watched some utube videos on how to adjust the GGTS button. My problem is once the button is removed I canot get the lock nut to thread down towards the bottom of the screw. It will only go upwards.
I have tried lubing the screw up and everything.

My reason for doing this is I was having problems getting it to fire with the IMR 18500 batts with the kick installed. It will fire perfectly using the 4.8 NIMH batts. This is the first time I have ever taken off the button so the threads couldn't be messed up could they?
I will attach a pic that shows the farthest down that the lock nut will go.

Thanks to anyone who responds and helps. I have ordered some replacement springs from COV, but that is not what is causing this problem. Why wont the lock nut screw down?

 

[Serpent67]

The newer buttons are not made to have the lock ring go down furthur. It is set like that to allow enough drop on the button to make contact to the post.

Put the button in and screw down till finger tight and with a fine pair of needle nose grasp the lock ring from the sides and snug it up tight.

Do this carefully to avoid scratching the bottom tube.

Can't help you on the prob with the other batteries or the kick dilemma. I have neither, nor want to.

 

[aruga]

Thanks for the response. I was trying my best to get the lock nut down. Thanks for telling me that before I really messed it up.
I did what you said and the button is back and secure. Still not firing right with these new 18500 batts with our without the kick but fires perfectly with the 4.8 NIMH's.....

I have multiple 18500 batts and it does the same with them all. Sometimes if I push the button with 2 fingers as hard as I can it will fire. I forgot to mention I have the fuse upgrade installed aswell. I tried taking it out and using the original post and same problem.
Any advice?
Thanks again Serpent67 for your post. it helped me alot to understand the mechanics behind the switch.

 

[Serpent67]

No prob

Hmm, I don't know, Aruga?

Any battery should not matter, as it will not change the distance of drop to the contact post and that will remain unchanged no matter what battery.

I would say it must stem somehow from the contact points between the battery, kick, fuse upgrade and connector pin.

Somewhere in those connection points the prob exists, from the sounds of it.

 

[CaptSteve]

aruga, have you perhaps screwed in the button contact post too far in to the button?
When you dismantled the button to replace the spring (for example) did you screw it back in to far, that's what I mean.
Steve

Thanks for the response. I was trying my best to get the lock nut down. Thanks for telling me that before I really messed it up.
I did what you said and the button is back and secure. Still not firing right with these new 18500 batts with our without the kick but fires perfectly with the 4.8 NIMH's.....

I have multiple 18500 batts and it does the same with them all. Sometimes if I push the button with 2 fingers as hard as I can it will fire. I forgot to mention I have the fuse upgrade installed aswell. I tried taking it out and using the original post and same problem.
Any advice?
Thanks again Serpent67 for your post. it helped me alot to understand the mechanics behind the switch.

 

[aruga]

I checked the post connection and made sure it was not too tight. Good advice...Thank you.

Let me put up 2 more pics that are more focused than the others so the threads can hopefully be viewed.

And I agree..upon further testing both of my Kicks work with my Silver Bullet and neither with my GGTS.
I am going to test further and post the resul

 

[ook]

U sure u aint locked the button tight (closed) pliers, it wont be that tight

 

[fright88]

Hmm I don't want to be offensive but in all the pictures your button lock is on. So I just want to verify when you turn off the button lock it will screw all the way down to touch the locking ring right?

Also best bet is to eliminate the button for testing. I would do the following.

Remove the button and put an 18500 in the ggts and tighten as normal (without the kick). Use a screwdriver or some kind of metal rod to touch the ggts body and the battery post.

Does it fire? If not check for over tightening this is easy to do and if you over tighten it can short out the atty or carto.

If it does fire open the ggts and add the kick retighten and retest with screwdriver or metal rod. Does it fire now? If not but it did before it has something to do with the kick. If it fires correctly then your problem is in the button.

If it didn't fire try cleaning the inside of your top tube. A couple people have mentioned having to wipe down the inside of their mods to work with the kick.

 

[Major]

Just a suggestion but another thing I would do is to visually check and see that the button pin is making contact with the bottom cap axis. Just take your bottom tube off separate from the rest of your GGTS. Be sure to leave the bottom cap and button in place.

If you look into the top of the tube, you should clearly see if the button is making positive conmtact with the center axis post. If that is all well, reassemble it and try one of the other suggestions.

One thing that I also would check is the actual length of the assembled GGTS when you are trying to use it. You said it is firing with the 4.8v battery but not the IMR 18500's. I am wondering if there is enough differntial between the length of the 4.8's and the IMR's to cause a gap when the unit is assembled.

THe only reason I mention this is depending on what I am using as a feeder, sometimes the AW P18500's will sometimes be just literally a hair short of making good contact with the full GGTS. I verified my issue was battery length by lifting the battery spring up a tad and got proper firing.

Messing with the battery spriong wasn't a solution but it did verify that it was battery length and not some other issue. Good luck and let us know what worked for you!

 

[martinc]

Did you etched the kick anodize?

You got to etch it otherwise it wont work properly.

 

[Killjoy1]

What anodizing are you referring to, martin? That statement has me totally confused


As for your button, aruga, I don't think your problem is anything to do with your button not making contact. If it works in other setups, then it's definitely connecting your bottom post just fine. Make sure to clean all of your connections on your TS and the inside of your top tube, the Kick is very sensitive to sub-par conditions but should work just fine if everything is clean and making good contact.
For the record I have one 18500 that I can't get to work with it in my TS no matter what I try, still haven't figured out the problem with that one, so maybe you're encountering the same. Do you have any different batteries you can try (including other sizes)?