buying a mod - mechanical vs VV/VW

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xyanide

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Hey guys, I've been wanting to get into budget-RBAs like an AGA-T2/+ as I hear they greatly outperform my current setup (kangerT2+ego). I realize that coiling can be iffy on RBAs, but I don't mind fiddling with it.
What i'm wondering is about the limitations of using VV/VW devices with RBAs.
All I know is that you can't coil below 1.5ohms as a rule of thumb, because of the amp limitations. How does this affect the vape performance? For example would a mechanical mod with an aga-T@1ohm vape very differently compared to a Vamo + aga-t @ 1.8ohms?

Another question: How long on avarage does a VV mod like a Vamo2 last for people?
A 2nd hand hybrid might just be ideal if anyone saw them below $140. I think I would only have to worry about wicks and coils with those.
 

jhiga

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First of all, good for you! I find the RBA's to be more enjoyable, but you may feel differently. The most important thing is to experiment, and find what you like best.

As far as the amp limitations, I don't have a problem coiling sub 1.5 ohm coils on my ProVari, but it limits my voltage range. If I'm ~1 ohm, I'm stuck around 2.9 volts to ~3.3 volts. I prefer to wrap my coil a little higher, so I have more freedom with voltages. I'm sure others will chime in on their experiences, but that's just my particular usage example.

I can't comment on the use of a mechanical mod, because I don't own one, but there isn't an amp limit, obviously. You're looking at starting at around 4.1 volts, down to 3.4? (subjectively) on a mechanical mod. You'll be able to use very low resistance coils, however, as long as you're using a battery that's considered safe.

My ProVari with a 2000 mAh battery lasts me about two days, moderate use, at 3.9 volts with my AGA-T+ coiled at 1.7 ohms.

I'm looking for a hybrid too! Good luck with the search, if that's what you decide.
 

BlackPurple

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vv/vw device usually got 1.2 ohm limits. which means if u using RBA's, u need to make sure its higher than that. i prefer make it 1.8-2.0ohm because its easier to set a good voltage/wattage on it.
Provari got 0.9 ohm limits which kind of special for vv mod.

mechanical mod doesnt have amp limitation, much why it doesnt provide protection. but thats the special on them. usually mech mod firing at 3.0v-4.0v
1.0 ohm on mech mod vs 1.8 ohm on vv/vw mod..its really subjective.why?because RBA is about how u built it. u built it good, its fine..
however on my opinion, it doesnt matter. resistance vs power is just about how much battery must push its power to fire the coil. lower resistance need less power, higher resistance need more power.
maybe veteran can explain about this.
 

Dougiestyle

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It boiled-down to consistency for me. A regulated PV is going to give the same vape from beginning to end of battery. Who cares about low resistance if your PV can pump a set parameter of voltage/watts to a coil that's built within its operating specs? I'll gladly wrap a 2ohm coil to be able to attain the same wattage as a Super LR coil.

Your mechanical may suit your taste with your newly-wrapped coil when you first put your battery in. After 3-4hrs it will decrease in performance. I don't want to have to change batts accorcing to taste/heat. I'm a set-it-and-forget-it kinda guy. If I want hotter/cooler vape, I can adjust.

I built a VW bottomfed box for my A7. I can wrap 3,4,5,6 wrap coils and the vape is the same heat at the setting that suits me from morning until night.

IMO mechanical < regulated
 

tj99959

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    I wrap my coils for 2.4 ohms +/- 0.2 to use on my Provari. I wrap LR coils for my mechanical mods, but I ALWAYS test them on the Povari before using them on the mechanical. Things happen in a hurry if you put power to a shorted coil without having the protection ckts.

    To be blunt, I like the higher resistance at a higher voltage anyway. So I use the VV PV for the most part. YMMV
     

    Thepinfamily

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    the definition of MOD is to modify or modified e cig so if you buy it from a store it is NOT a MOD

    This struck me as odd when I started on the forum also. I have other hobbies that mod things. Pinball machines, guns, cars all get modded. A provari, vamo or mechanical pv is not modded. You can mod it i guess but the term mod is used very improperly in the ecig world. If we want t be a respected as a hobby we need to get our terminology straight.
     

    Thepinfamily

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    the definition of MOD is to modify or modified e cig so if you buy it from a store it is NOT a MOD

    This struck me as odd when I started on the forum also. I have other hobbies that mod things. Pinball machines, guns, cars all get modded. A provari, vamo or mechanical pv is not modded. You can mod it i guess but the term mod is used very improperly in the ecig world. If we want t be a respected as a hobby we need to get our terminology straight.
     

    tj99959

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    Getting kinda off topic, but the term "mod" goes back a long ways with e-cigs. You can call them e-cigs, mods, PV's, APV's, or anything else that you might like, but a rose by any name is still a rose. In the beginning anything other than a cig look alike was built in someone's shop in their basement ... thus the term "mod". The term has just stuck since then is all.
    This morning I'm using a SB, a Provari, and a Reo, and that's what I call them.
     
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    xyanide

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    I started thinking 'mod' was short for 'modular kit', as almost all components can be swapped out for others. It could've come from people building battery tubes and sticking their 510 connections on; modding their kit like that? Just some thoughts.
    Many thanks for the comments! I think i'll stick with a Vamo + AGA-T2 on the shopping list for now, keeping a close watch for hybrids on the classifieds forum (cause dang they are sexy).
     

    tartanraven

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    GUS with a fresh MNKE 18650, topped with a bliSS Titanium kitted with a .7ohm coil bringing a total of 21watts @ 30amp sustained output = VROOOMMMM Vaping!!!
    Try those numbers with ANY regulated mod...go ahead....do it.
    Provari is solid kit, but it just falls short in some areas. It has a decent warranty, but not quite a lifetime warranty/refinishing warranty like my Precise+. I'm pretty certain that my mecchies will be around long after I'm expired.
     

    AttyPops

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    All mechanical:
    No electronics to fail.
    Simple build...probably no wires either.
    Just connects the battery to the atomizer/carto/tank with a button.
    Follows battery voltage (that is to say...voltage changes as battery drains)
    Buttons wear out due to running full current through them.
    Need to use protected batteries and/or IMR type (safe chem) batteries. The protected batteries have circuitry for amp limits.

    Regulated:
    Often takes 2 batteries (but certainly not always. Trend is to build boosters into them with a single battery)
    Has electronics.
    Voltage is consistent throughout vaping.
    Offers some additional protection from shorts.
    Often variable voltage too. Particularly important when you wrap your own coils unless you're REAL good at it.

    So basically,

    A) You don't want to use less than 1.5 ohms on a all-mech mod IMO since that's too low...would probably trip some protected batteries.
    B) The VV allows you to adjust the voltage due to the variability of your coil wraps.
    C) There are all sorts of VV mods...buy or build. I like the regulation personally. Is consistent then.

    Always use safe batteries for your device, check recommendations, and make sure it has adequate vents for safety.
     
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